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I was foot braking it the last time at the track, according to the datalogs i hit 3400 RPM before the car started rolling, less than 1/2 sec after it hit 4K. This converter is pretty loose, it'll flash to 4500 on the street.
The logs show it's hitting ~4600 after the 7K shifts, finishing off in 3rd at about 5500.
Your sig says 700r4. Is that the trans you have??? I figured you for a 350 trans
I did notice too that when I manually shifted my car it was faster also. Not 1 second but a good 2-5 tenths on average. But I had a stock trans, no shift kit or anything. Just a el cheepo 2800 adv. stall converter. I try not to shift it manually though. 1. its more inconsistant like you said, and 2. that damm turbo will keep pulling even with the 6k rpms so its tempting to rev it high since sometimes i swear that engine liked it.
If I could find someone to stall that thing I would. The only places i can find are so far away that the shipping would cost as much as the stall. Having 2 trans now that have low miles on them it is tempting to work those becaue of the 4th gear alone. Love driving it arround but still a th350 is probly going to be the goal later on in the winter/spring.
my tach has a built in shift light but i never use it, i just watch the needle and ratchet to the next gear a hair before 7K. My limiter is 7009 RPM and i rarely hit it. The Megashifter helps a lot.
i know for afact 275hp @3500 pounds wont run low 12's i took my car to the track after the dyno and ran it with no changes car went 12.9 -13.1's all day
it wasnt till i fixed the ignition and picked up a bunch of power till it ran low 12's
It won't? How do you explain Lee's times then? His car is on a diet and weighs less than 3500, but still, proof is in the pudding - he runs consistent low 12's in that cam only car. He is allowed headers, but was running the 3800 tubular manifolds.
I generally don't believe those calculators, the turbo wide body e30 makes 357whp, weighs 2160lb wet, traps 117@12.3, but only has a 2.1 60' due to the IRS. The calculator in the link below says the car should only be making 270whp based on trap speed and 180whp based on ET.
Enter in Lee's numbers of 3400lb, 12.4et and 105 trap speed and see if the calculator says you can go low 12's with 275whp
It won't? How do you explain Lee's times then? His car is on a diet and weighs less than 3500, but still, proof is in the pudding - he runs consistent low 12's in that cam only car. He is allowed headers, but was running the 3800 tubular manifolds.
I generally don't believe those calculators, the turbo wide body e30 makes 357whp, weighs 2160lb wet, traps 117@12.3, but only has a 2.1 60' due to the IRS. The calculator in the link below says the car should only be making 270whp based on trap speed and 180whp based on ET.
Enter in Lee's numbers of 3400lb, 12.4et and 105 trap speed and see if the calculator says you can go low 12's with 275whp
problem is nobody can say it takes x amount of hp to run x amount of time.
all dynos are different so if one says hes making 275 wheel hp and he goes that fast another might say 325whp
now and actual engine dyno would give a much more accurate number
when i dynoed 275/370 hp/tq i went back and ran the car as was on the dyno i iirc the best pass was a 13.00 maybe even just cracked the 12's.
it wasnt until i actually fixed the ignition system and got my afrs in check after the dynpo that the car went low 12's and i know it picked up a ton of power once i got the issues sorted
chassi plays alot with times to put a bad *** engine in a stock suspension car without frame connectors cage etc etc and its not going to run what it should.
have a car thats really setup suspension wise and any engine will make it fly ( not fly but u get my point )
god how i would love to have a 2160 pound f-body lol but we all know that would never happen
I have a 1.15AR hot side and a .60 AR cold side turbo.
Originally Posted by RubberDucky
Necropost here, But......
Hey Dave, what exhaust housing would I use on this turbo? A standard T3 60-80 AR?
How about the housing off my current ****ed turbo?
Or point me in the direction of the housing I would need to spool this baby up around 2500-2800 RPMS? One thatll work well on the 2.8 till it dies, then work well on the 3.4?
thats right it was the turbo they sold to the rotary guys
at most its 60mm wheel on the compressor but im pretty sure its the same wheel fastedi started out with on his car , i.e the same compressors i had as twins on my iroc
the difference is that has a t4 hotside instead of being a t3/t4
before u spend any money on a housing bolt it on andblock off the turbine side closest to the outlet , this effectivly cuts the ar in half , i do not rember if those turbos have the p-trim wheels in them if they do even with the smallest t4 housing its going to lag
more then likley best course of action would be to take the compressor side off and bolt it to the hotside of the turbo u have now
if u have the money buy the turbine and compressor housings from fast if they arent damaged and u can buy a new gt3582 center section on ebay for 100 bucks iirc , then just pop the housings on and u will have the perfect turbo
thats right it was the turbo they sold to the rotary guys
at most its 60mm wheel on the compressor but im pretty sure its the same wheel fastedi started out with on his car , i.e the same compressors i had as twins on my iroc
the difference is that has a t4 hotside instead of being a t3/t4
before u spend any money on a housing bolt it on andblock off the turbine side closest to the outlet , this effectivly cuts the ar in half , i do not rember if those turbos have the p-trim wheels in them if they do even with the smallest t4 housing its going to lag
more then likley best course of action would be to take the compressor side off and bolt it to the hotside of the turbo u have now
if u have the money buy the turbine and compressor housings from fast if they arent damaged and u can buy a new gt3582 center section on ebay for 100 bucks iirc , then just pop the housings on and u will have the perfect turbo
I think what I am going to do, is make a flange that'll taper the exhaust into only one side of the turbo, effectively making it a .58AR housing. If it is truly a twin scroll, I will block the side closest the downpipe; It would probably be best to have the exhaust funneled into the part closest the cartridge.
Also theoretically the taper should help a little with spool, instead of just flat blocking off the other side of the turbo and causing a lot of turbulence.
Wish I could bolt it up to the turbo I have now, but the T3 and T4 have different size shafts IIRC, and the turbo I have now needs more work than its worth; it's a paperweight now.
I think what I am going to do, is make a flange that'll taper the exhaust into only one side of the turbo, effectively making it a .58AR housing. If it is truly a twin scroll, I will block the side closest the downpipe; It would probably be best to have the exhaust funneled into the part closest the cartridge.
Also theoretically the taper should help a little with spool, instead of just flat blocking off the other side of the turbo and causing a lot of turbulence.
Wish I could bolt it up to the turbo I have now, but the T3 and T4 have different size shafts IIRC, and the turbo I have now needs more work than its worth; it's a paperweight now.
that chinesse turbo i belive still uses a small shaft , u would have to measure it yourself to find out , even alot of the brand name t4 stuff still uses a t3 sized shaft
before u bother making a nice blockoff plate do it quick and simple with a simple steel plate this will atleast give u an idea if its worth going threw all the trouble to make a tapered inlet
that chinesse turbo i belive still uses a small shaft , u would have to measure it yourself to find out , even alot of the brand name t4 stuff still uses a t3 sized shaft
before u bother making a nice blockoff plate do it quick and simple with a simple steel plate this will atleast give u an idea if its worth going threw all the trouble to make a tapered inlet
I think the backing plate and such might bolt up, Just hope its the dynamic seal backing plate. That would be perfect if it did. Then I wouldn't have to do an assload of modifications again...
