When its cold outside my car idles really low and every once in awhile she will die because of the low idle, like today, i went out to start her so i could move her really quick and when she first started she ran for a few seconds then died, after i restarted her and kept my foot on the gas for a few seconds she idled fine till i got out to the end of my driveway she died again. is this normal on thirdgens? should i just give my engine more time to warm up before i put it in gear? anything i can do to get rid of this problem?

 

Could be a couple of things, my first guess is that your CSI is either bad or not hooked up, it could also be that your idle speed is set too low, disconnect the battery for like 5 minutes, hook it back up, and see if it still stalls on you. Do you have any problems when its warm out, or any ecm codes?

 

CSI should be working, it was working when pulled out of the 3.1 car, im running 3.1 injectors and also she will fire right up on any day that its freezing out its just after i put her in gear right after i start her up, also im getting no codes and she runs fine after shes idled a couple minutes and runs beautifully when shes warm, like i said its only after i jump in, start it, and throw it in gear.

 

That CSI and fuel injectors worked fine on my engine...

My guess is the MAF, especially since it's fine when warm. Keep in mind that a bad MAF won't always throw a code (and if it does, it may not throw a MAF code). Did you replace it when you finished things up and got the engine running, or is it the same one that came with the car? Also check the CTS resistance.

 

Try cleaning the throttle body around the blade, and the IAC, and check if any vacuum lines are, chances are its an issue thats always present, but just made worse by the cold, but I think its the CSI, you said you swapped to the 3.1 injectors, did you use a 3.1 fuel injector rail? there is a 7th injector at the back base of the lower intake manifold, that is the CSI(cold start injector) if its not hooked up or working it could quite likely cause the exact issues you are having.

 

He has the 2.8 fuel rail and CSI with 3.1 injectors I traded for a rad fan and upper mount a couple months ago...

I agree with the vacuum lines check...

 

dan, the MAF is new, i replaced it right before the car went down due to timing, also i know i have atleast one vacum hose leaking and i have one missing but i could never figure out where the line was suppost to go, but when i go friday to the junkyard im going to look to see where it goes, the line thats leaking is the top line off of the charcoal canister, the missing line is under the TB, it connects to a three way connector, the charcoal canister lines also run to it( if anyone here could look and tell me it would help alot), dan whats the CTS? and how do i do a vacum test?

 

http://s988.photobucket.com/albums/a...onssticker.jpg

Check this first and get those lines hooked up... If the engine does the same thing after you get the vacuum leak taken care of, we'll look elsewhere.

:edit: The canister connections are the same but on the other side of the car, obviously...

 

funny thing is, the car started fine today, no problems, it must just e when its cold OUTSIDE surrounding my car, idk i might try to start it when its 40 something out and see if i have problems. the car ran great and started great until i started lossing fuel but thats another thread.

 

When it's cold outside, the engine sucks more air into that wide open hole in the vacuum line... I have to get at my gas tank in the garage tomorrow to tell you what's what there for sure.

 

ok thank you dan

 

As for the PM you sent, you can get the MAF clamp at a parts store. I believe it's a 55-68mm clamp, but I need to look at the ones I have in the garage to make sure. As for the rubber ring that goes on the end of the air box to seal to the MAF, if you don't have it, you're SOL.

I know that the fuel line towards the front is the pressure line (the biggest one) and the one at the back is the vent valve line. I think that the other 2 cross between the sending unit and the body lines, but I'm not 100% on that, which is why I need to look at mine. As for why the fuel is coming out in such large quantities from the vent valve, that's anyone's guess.

 

the guy i talked too at autozone said he couldnt get one, he needs one for his 86 iroc, also what rubber seal?

 

its a big fat O-ring, depending on your intake setup you might not have it though, on my car I have dual tpi snorkel intake, and the MAF has a plastic ring on the end that has an o-ring on it to seal it to the air filter box.

 

i dont remember ever seeing a rubber ring, only that metal ring

 

Having just gone through the same problem I'd have to say it's probably the MAF I replaced it and problem gone.

 

It's either that (always wondered what that groove was for in that end of the MAF), or there's a rubber ring, similar as is used to seal plumbing, that sits on the end of the air box with one side of the ring on the outside and the other on the inside where the MAF is, and the clamp goes on top.

If you can't find a clamp at a hardware store, let me know. I have about six of them (stainless besides!) in the garage because I can't use them with the new intake.

 

so can i get it at lowes? like i said i called zone and they said it was a no go., i cant look at the seal till tomorrow maybe, the cars at the exhaust shop (:

 

Me thinks they're BSing you... I'm sure they have plenty of 2.5" hose/air intake clamps (commonly used on those aftermarket air intake things, which is where most of mine have come from). If not, then Lowes will have it.

Oh, and you really need to check that MAF sealing deal... If you run too long without it sealed, you'll need a new MAF.

 

ok ill stop in tomorrow when i get the car, do you have a picture of the rubber seal? i honestly dont think i have it, when i put the MAF in its just like sliding it into plastic, no resistance

 

I can say my 86 always liked to warm up a bit, not that I couldn't just take off [easier with a stick, I can play with gas n clutch to make it go] but it was better if I could to let the O2 get hot and work first. And until then the idle was funky, all over the range.

That why newer cars have 3 and 4 wire O2 sensors, it pre heats it, so it works quicker.

 

Surprisingly I have had no drama yet with cold starts, despite not having the CSI hooked up, I have noticed my engine idles high when first started, or when pulling to a stop its initially high, but then drops a good bit and levels off, curious, is that normal?

 

problems gone away since iv swapped those gas lines around (:

 

It's quite normal... If you've ever noticed, any fuel injected car, no matter the manufacturer, will run about 12-1300 RPM until the coolant temp reaches a certain point, and then the idle speed will drop to around 800 RPM or thereabouts. GM's tend to run about 1200 until warm and then drop to about 800 when not in gear or about 700 for a manual (or they will drop steadily on a newer engine). I guess it helps prevent the engine from stalling when cold or something and helps the engine warm up faster to knock the emissions down.

 

my cars idleing about that now, i have no problem starting the car at all, its 28 here and she fired right up without any problems and she has alot of power since i have that exhaust done!!, dan can you get me a picture of that rubber seal for the maf please?

 

I'll have it tomorrow... I've been busy with my rearend most of the afternoon and there is no power to see in the garage at the moment.

 

wait no!! tomorrows turky day, be with your family dan, if you can get the pic friday, i wont be on from friday till next tuesday, ill be at my dads till sunday, mondays my 16th birthday, and tuesday im getting my permit so i can drive this beastly v6 lol.

 

We already had turkey day (5 hours ago)... And I won't have anything to do after work tomorrow, so... Might as well.

Still, if I do have a spare MAF seal, I'll let you know. If you need a clamp, let me know, as I have about six extras (2.75 inch max clamps don't work on 3" PVC pipe).

 

im going to the junkyard tomorrow to see if i cant salvage one of those rings, a seal, some vac lines, a washer pump and bottle, and water fluid lines. so ill report back soon with my findings if i cant get one of the ring without breaking it like i did my old one or a seal.