How well do these cars do burnouts?, my butt dyno tells me that my car probably has the 200hp and 240 tq that I estimate it to, but my buick century and chevy lumina had less powerful engines and could lay down a little bit of rubber, but this car does not seem to leave any rubber, it peels out but only a for a second, and I have yet to see verifiable skid marks from it, which tells me that it either launches a hell of a lot better than the other cars I've owned, or isn't really making as much power as I think it is, in which case something is probably wrong with the engine..It's the first rwd car I've owned or driven(so Idk what to expect as far as launches go), but it just seems like 240 tq and non posi diff, should be able to overpower 225 tires, they have almost new tread, but they aren't anything high end.

 

I have an okay built 3.4 and a 3.27 posi rear, from a stand still I can lay about 10 feet of skid of my brand new 245 tires.

 

Don't forget that Luminas and the Buick Century (I had a 4cyl 2.5, before the plastic oil pump blew up) are front wheel drive- when you floor it, the weight transfer lifts the front up- and the tires spin easier.

On the Firebird, the unibody likes to twist up- all the horsepower from the engine is getting lost in the chassis. Do you have any cracks at the back/top edge of the side windows? Those are stress cracks from the body'frame twisting up. T-top'd cars and convertibles are really vulnerable to chassis twist; in fact the factory added extra support to the top edges of the doors on t-top cars.

To fight chassis twist, the easiest way is to put an airbag (think: pickup truck load levelers, one company is Air Lift, red bags go inside the coil spring) in the passenger rear spring to add some preload.

The best way to fight chassis twist is to weld in some subframe connectors. I have the ones that lonsal (on these forums) used to sell - [edit] looks like still sells them! - made by Alston- meant for convertible cars = they hugged the floorboards closer (better ground clearance) than other brands. I never welded them in because I found out my frame had rusted out- but I'll be putting them on the next car.

 

Is that with an auto or manual and how are you launching it? But nonetheless I should be able to do at least that with 3.42s, a fairly built 3.4 and only 225 tires....

 

I used to smoke the right rear while standing on the brakes at lights (no, not the 2.8). With the engine running like crap (bad injectors and MAF) and the auto trans on its way out. 3.42 peg leg rear... With 235/60s. But those weren't traction grade A, either (cheap PO put trac grade Bs on there and I had to replace them after finding a nail in one). Haven't really been able to do one with the T5, though...

Tom, you wouldn't happen to know if anyone has any pics of those SFC's installed, would you?

 

Auto. And launching by idle, then putting the gas to the floor. Never touching the brakes. My tire UTQG rate = 360 AA A.
I need to get SFC's my driverside window is torn about an inch up. My LCAs and adj. panhard will be here tomorrow. I can list my engine mods if you want.

 

dump the slush box and it will do it more then you want it too.




.

 

my car has the 305 TPI with auto and 3.27gears on 245/55/16 tires and it will light them upp off the line and when it hits 2nd it will then kick out again.. Pretty much stock too.

 

Thank for being eager to help but what you can do with your V8 has little to do with his V6 question.

 

Here are two links, one is my thread on it and the best place to get them is
Doug Herbert $190 shipped [paypal only online] cheaper then anyone.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...rs-solved.html

Other thread has pics of them installed and what I would do if I had the room. Run both Alston and BMRs.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...-subframe.html

 

ya sorry i got a bit ahead of myself, didnt see it was for V6.

 

Well this is the v6 section of the boards...but anyway, I have my answer more or less, just going to have to look into a couple of things...

 

Though also member your slush box isn't built to be top performance minded.

up the stall, get a firm shift kit, lower first gear, vette serve and it will be like having a stick as it hits gears.

When I had a new trans built for my wagon I did all that and its fun chirpin gears in a full frame near 6 ton wagon, and folks always ask about the engine when that has little to do with it. The engine always had enough to do that, I just took all the slop n sunday driver feel out of the slush box. So it hits like a ton of bricks on a shift, which has me almost waiting, fearing the day I twist the stock drive shaft up like a pretzle. Even part throttle shifts it kicks like a muel as you feel the car lunge out from under you.

 

Wow thanks for the links on the Alstons' installs; lots of squabbling in that one message but looks like I can pick out some good install info. Did you ever get around to welding them?

 

Ok turns out my car does lay rubber, its just harder to see than I expected, but I peeled out sideways from a stop sign(was making a left..and well, if you have a 3rd gen I'm sure you know how much they like going sideways...) I couldn't find the marks at first, but then noticed them crossing the white line, was a lot easier to spot on that than the pavement.....so I guess mystery solved...

 

Not yet, bolting was enough work.