V6 Discussion and questions about the base carbureted or MPFI V6's and the rare SFI Turbo V6.

pulling a 3.1

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Old Sep 19, 2000 | 10:20 AM
  #1  
CaliCamaroRS's Avatar
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From: Los Angeles, CA
Engine: LH0 3.1L
pulling a 3.1

hey guys, what's the easiest way to pull out a 3.1 without pulling the trans with it. i heard that the only way was to cut a hole through the floor to reach the bolts at the top of the bellhousing. is this true??

------------------
Dan
100% stock 1990 RS 3.1L
and VERY slow
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Old Sep 19, 2000 | 10:51 AM
  #2  
SillyWabbit's Avatar
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From: Santa Rosa, CA
Car: '91 Formula
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
I don't know how similar they are, but you should have to remove the tranny to get to the bellhousing bolts, unless you have incredibly small hands. Even with the tranny out, the very top bellhousing bolts are a PITA to get to. If somehow you're able to move all the crap out of the way, and can reach far enough, you may be able to get them from the firewall area. But if you can't, I'd suggest removing the tranny first. It's not that hard to do. I was able to pull my tranny in less than a day the first time I tried.

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ICQ #: 77308896
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2.8L MPFI w/ K&N filters & homemade ram air
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Old Sep 19, 2000 | 01:05 PM
  #3  
MILT's Avatar
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From: Minneapolis, MN
Ya might as well pull the tranny too; it's not that bad, and gives you a good excuse to put a shift kit in (as well as a nicer TC) while it's out.
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Old Sep 19, 2000 | 01:14 PM
  #4  
TomP's Avatar
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From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
I've also removed my trans myself, and I didn't have to cut the floor out. I had also read that (in the Haynes manual)- and I have no idea why they mentioned it. It's perfectly do-able without cutting the floor. What's odd is that the Haynes book also tells you how to pull the trans out! (I followed the Haynes book since it mirrored the GM/Helms service manual...)

I'll tell ya tho, make sure you buy a long (3 or 4 foot) 1/2 inch extension. This way you can un-do the bellhousing bolts by using a breaker bar near the back of the transmission. It's much easier that way. Also, it's gotta be a 1/2 inch'er.. I was trying to use a 3/8" long extension, and it was "twisting" under the torque I was giving it. The 1/2 inch one sped things along immensely! I think the bolt size is 21mm for the bellhousing bolts.. either that, or 18mm. Hm, on second think, it's probably 18mm.

But yeah, like the others said, you're going to have to drop the trans anyway.

-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
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Old Sep 19, 2000 | 01:27 PM
  #5  
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From: Normal, IL
Just did my tranny a month ago, they're 13mm, I believe, and I didn't cut anyhting except my hands to get it detached from the engine.



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Reno
'88 Firebird LB8
"Cerberus"
Now: rusting on a side street til I get out of college

Plans: BUILT 3.4 motor with B&M racing tranny, Hotchkis suspension all around, lowering 1", Accel ignition all around, Splitfire plugs, 88 front bumper, ASCD Ram Air I hood, 91 GTA spoiler, formula wheels, Firehawk tires, restored interior (first on list)
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Old Sep 19, 2000 | 03:25 PM
  #6  
CaliCamaroRS's Avatar
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From: Los Angeles, CA
Engine: LH0 3.1L
thanks guys, this is just for future reference....i have a feeling my engine is gonna crap out within the next 20,000 miles. it's got 141,000 right now.

------------------
Dan
100% stock 1990 RS 3.1L
and VERY slow
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Old Sep 19, 2000 | 09:35 PM
  #7  
Graeme'sFirebird's Avatar
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From: First one out of liberty city, burn it to the ground
ehhh...i wouldnt say that...171,000 miles here and still runnin strong...the only MAJOR thing i had to do was replace a bad column...and it has nothing to do with the engine...go figure

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89 RS
305 TPI...

Previous:
2.8 s/c'd firebird
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Old Sep 20, 2000 | 01:14 AM
  #8  
CaliCamaroRS's Avatar
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From: Los Angeles, CA
Engine: LH0 3.1L
hey graeme, a fellow socal man ay.(was last week earthquake weather or what??)
anyway, actually i'm kind of waiting for it to crap out so i'll have a reason to tear it down. you know what they say, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it"

------------------
Dan
100% stock 1990 RS 3.1L
and VERY slow
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Old Sep 22, 2000 | 12:47 AM
  #9  
NvrRobX's Avatar
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Joined: Feb 2000
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From: Redmond, WA
My 3.1 has 134k miles on it now, it's still running strong. The only problems I've had were MAF sensor, water pump and heater core.

Let me tell you, that heater core was a royal pain to replace....

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Old Sep 22, 2000 | 08:47 AM
  #10  
MR. JORDAN's Avatar
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From: SUDBURY ONTARIO CANADA
WHEN I BOUGHT MY CAR A FEW MONTHS AGO, IT RAN LIKE SH*T. I DID A MAJOR TUNE UP UNDER THE DIRECTION OF MY HAYNES MANUAL AND THE ENGINE RAN LIKE NEW. I HAVE 180,000KM ON MY CAR AND IT WAS BEAT UP AND DRIVEN VERY HARD DAILY.HOPFULLY FOR YOUR SAKE THAT IS ALL YOUL NEED TO DO$$$$
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Old Sep 22, 2000 | 04:12 PM
  #11  
CaliCamaroRS's Avatar
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From: Los Angeles, CA
Engine: LH0 3.1L
i WANT to tear this engine down so i can beef it up a little. my goal is around 190-200 hp...wheather this is reasonable or not, who knows. i just want to be able to beat girls driving auto tranny civics (grrrr..long story)anyway, i don't have a WHOLE lot of free time so i figure i'll wait until the engine craps out and then i'll HAVE to fix it up. plus it will give me a little time to save some money.

------------------
Dan
100% stock 1990 RS 3.1L
and VERY slow
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