SmArT-V6-

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

EST is controlled by the ECM and the ignition module in the distributor on the 2.8. Period. If you have a problem, it's somewhere in between. Is the connector coming out of the wire harness, with the tan wire with a black stripe, over the blower motor case (A/C box), connected? If not, that's your code 42. If so, we move on from there.

You can't test either the ECM or PROM. You can have the ECM tested, but you may end up asking about 20 places before you find somewhere that will do it. The PROM seldom goes bad without exposure to sunlight, x-rays, or other forms of electromagnetic radiation.

SmArT-V6-

ok, helpfull..i got a replacement ignition module, put that in along with a new cap and rotor, yes that black wire with tan stripe is plugged in. But i accually just had my starter rebuilt. and my battery was disconnected, clearing all my codes. and its not giving me any more now...because i cant get the car started....

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Check to make sure you have power at the pink coil wire connector and then remove a spark plug before cranking the engine over to make sure you have spark (put the wire back on the plug and ground the plug against the plenum or something).

SmArT-V6-

ok. so today, i replaced my coil, (still didnt start) i then proceded to take off my intake manifold and test my injectors. My Haynes manual says Injector Resistance should be, 11.0 - 14.0 ohms. my results. C1-15.9, C2-15.9, C3- 15.9, C4- 12.1, C5- 15.9, C6- 12.1.
is it possible for 4 of my injectors to all go at once? or are they correct and only two broken?
and Again, Thanks for all the help.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

First, if you're REALLY interested in working on your car, throw out that Haynes manual (or use it as toilet paper as that's about what it's good for) and get a GM service manual for your car. They can be had on eBay for cheap, or you can go to www.helminc.com and get one for about $100. Or you can even find one on CraigsList every now and then. Problem with Haynes is that there is so much wrong with the information it gives you (just look at the wiring diagram for the 2.8... No 2.8 in a thirdgen had a knock sensor... 3.1's did have one).

Second, your injectors are fine. Service spec is above 11.8 ohms.

Did you check for power at the pink coil wire? Or the pink wire at the distributor module (leave it connected to the coil and turn the ignition key on for both tests, and don't just use a test light, you need to measure the voltage at each wire)? Is the 2-wire pickup coil in the distributor connected to the control module?

SmArT-V6-

No i couldnt find a "pink" wire on my coil. And i havnt had the chance to take my cap off and test the pink wire inside the distributor. I will do that tomorow tho. And yes i properly plugged the ignition module back in(to the pink wire). And ill start looking for a gm manual, Thanks again.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

There are only 4 wires on the ignition coil (on the harness side, not the plug wire tower side). 2 of them are pink. One is white, and the other is black. The big fat one (the one NOT running to the dizzy cap) is the power source TO the coil from the ignition switch, and it's pink. The light colored one in the 2-wire connector on the OUTSIDE of the module (only one connector inside the dizzy, 2 on the outside, one having 4 wires and the other 2) is pink. Check for power at both. There is no pink wire inside the distributor. IIRC, one is green and one is yellow, or something like that.

SmArT-V6-

Hmm. I didnt see one. Ill look harder tomorow. Im getting a new ecm to install, and while j do that ill double check the two outside connectors on the dist'. For a pink wire,

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

They're probably either downright filthy with oil and other crud or faded to tan or white due to engine heat. Especially check the pink wire in the 2-wire dizzy connector. I and a couple of other guys have had this wire break off at the connector to the dizzy internally (insulation still good but copper wire inside broken). The big pink wire at the coil carries power to the ignition from the steering column switch, and the little pink wire out of the coil to the module carries power to the module.

SmArT-V6-

So after i tried the new ecm, no start. So i found the wires. And tested(with ignition on) and they had power. So i thought mabey my dist' gear may be stripped. So i pulled my dist' out and it had minor wear, i then tested my pickup coil to see if it was working. And it was. But im still getting an interminent spark for some reason.... Im very lost, and again. Thanks for the advice and suggestions

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

How exactly did you test the pickup coil? You should set a DMM to read volts AC and crank the engine over to verify a signal, or check the resistance. Also, if the wire terminals have come out of the connector for the pickup at the module, they could possibly be backwards. Another problem with our stock distributors is that the pickup coil's magnetic pole piece likes to crack, killing it and the output signal. Which is why replacement distributors use a different pickup coil setup.

BTW, did you use a test light or a DMM to test for power at the power connections? It may be that you have enough power to light the test light but not enough to do anything useful with the ignition. IIRC, below 10V, the ignition gets VERY weak, causing misfires on a car that's already running and possibly causing a no-start on a car that isn't.

SmArT-V6-

well i used a volt meter, idk what DMM is, but yeah i just replaced the pickup coil. and mothing ooked tooo wornout. u cleaned and lubed itall up and put it back in

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

DMM is a digital multimeter...

SmArT-V6-

ok back with some news (sorry i was gone so long we lost our internet)
ok i still cant get it to start. i started with a code 42 and i have pretty much replaced my ignotion system
-starter, battery, ignition coil, plug wires, ignition module, cap+rotor, pickup coil in distributor. it still didnt start. after a few cranks i pulled my plugs to find them SOAKED in gas. i figured possible fuel preassure regulator problem. replaced it. did nothing. i then asked an online mechanic for his opinion he said to test my coolant thermostat, because it tells ecm how much fuel to use depending on engine temp. i replaced that. nothing still. the mechanic said i might have a faulty ground on my ecm, No clue how to check that. ive tried a different ecm from a wreckers. and still nothing. as i said before i tested all my injectors. their fine. if anyone can tell me whats wrong. or has ant more info i would appreciate it. im really tired of walking because my car has a stupid problem.

thanks.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Okay, your problem seems to be somewhere between the distributor and the ignition coil. The ECM obviously knows the engine is turning over, as it's firing off the fuel injectors. Get a cheap set of plugs. It could be that the plugs in there now are so soaked with gas that they aren't firing.

You have 2 coolant temp units next to the thermostat housing, the round one being the sensor and the square one being the thermostatic switch for the seventh injector down by the base of the dizzy. Pull the connector off of the round one and check for 5V at the yellow wire and ground on the black one. Although, I seriously doubt the CTS as being your problem. The engine won't flood out with it reading -130*F, but it will run like crap and use 3x as much fuel as usual.

Check the wire connections at the distributor (2-wire connector) and the coil. Don't just look at them, wiggle the wires to make sure neither breaks.

SmArT-V6-

ok i got it running, but when i tromp on the gas, its very jerky and powerless. and rough. any ideas?

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Did you check the CTS yet? Also check the fuel injector resistance on both banks while you're at it (first and third and second and 4th connectors in the front fuel injector harness 4-wire connector). Should be 4 ohms per bank. 6 ohms on one or both banks means a shorted out injector. And then check your ignition timing with the tan/black wire by the blower motor pulled apart, should be at the 10* mark on the timing tab by the crank pulley (probably going to need sandpaper to clean off the tab so you can read it, should be the engine side of the 3rd V, IIRC... Have to look at mine to find out for sure).

SmArT-V6-

what is CST? lol and i checked my injectors already, they were fine.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

CTS is the coolant temp sensor...

SmArT-V6-

I replaced the cts by the AC bracket on driverside of motor. And i drove it yesterday. It seemed to run fine when the service engine soon light came on. Also, dont know if this helps but my cooling fan is on, wont turn off.... Dunno whu

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Pull the code out of the ECM... I'm willing to bet it's going to be code 13 for the CTS as the coolant fan won't shut off... Like I said, there's 2 CTS units there, and you need to make sure the circuit is working, not just throw a new one at it and call it a day.

SmArT-V6-

Do you know where the second cts is? And i how should i test the circuit? Before i replace the sensor, is ther a resistance amount that i can test on the sensor?

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Like I said before, there's the ECM CTS, the temp switch for the seventh injector, and the gauge sender (which is in the cylinder head). If you replaced the round one by the thermostat housing, you're good for the moment. If you replaced the square one, you need to take it back or just go back and get the round one. The resistance of the sensor varies with temperature, so you would also need to note the ambient air temp when you measure the resistance of the engine when COLD. You also need to make sure the rear connection for the fuel injector harness to the engine harness is good and secure, as the sensors connect to the engine harness in the rear (injectors in the front). If the ECM sees that the CTS is reading low, it will turn on the coolant fan and show the idiot light. Generally this happens when the CTS circuit is not complete somewhere, as the ECM has NO reading from the CTS to go by, and the fan will run because the ECM can't guess the engine temp and wants to prevent overheating, and the car will be a real pig on gas, probably with black exhaust.

SmArT-V6-

Its been a pig on gas.... Yeah. But would that explain why when i step on the throttle (while in gear) it becomes so jerky, lurchy and powerless? Yet when the check engine light comes on ( it onlyncomes on from time to time) the car will run fine, but use massive amounts of gas?

SmArT-V6-

But my idiot light is not on.