How exactly do I change the fuel filter and what type of replacment should I buy and one more thing is it hard to do(jack up car etc.)?

 

Im actualy going to change mine tommorw its simple look under your car on the driver side. its a little round cnaster and has a hose goin in it and one out of it disconnect that put the new one on and bam your done

 

I think you have to unplug the fuel pump, and if not..make sure you have something to catch all of the gas that's gonna shoot outta the hose.

 

You don't have to unplug the FR, just don't turn your car on or anything while you have the filter off. But I would recommend a drain pan, or relieving the pressure in the lines. It is pretty easy to do. Like FAST RS said, it is on the DS towards the rear, maybe a little in front of the back wheel. Just unhook the lines and put the same filter in that you took out (well, at least the same looking one). It is an inline filter. Hope this helps.
Vman

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1989 Camaro RS
2.8 V6
K&N's
700R4 tranny
Cragar Street Pro rims (old Series 30)
Pioneer DEH-P3000

1969 Camaro SC
350 HO from a Vette
Turbo 350 tranny
In the process of being restored

 

Is there any way one i replace it to take the oldfilter out to see how dirty it got????
Also make sure u dont have a full tank somehow i lost 1/4 of a tank when i did mine cuz as usual i ran into problmes...

 

You SHOULD "unplug" the fuel pump by pulling the fuel pump fuse. Then, start the car. What will happen is the car will start and run for a second or so, then stall, as it runs out of gas. Then, crank the starter for 5-10 seconds. This depressurizes the fuel line and gets rid of excess fuel.

If you don't do this, you can expect a nice little shower I did this with mine, and I still got gas on me!!

But ask any mechanic...this is the process they tell you to do.

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Jason E
'89 Camaro RS 2.8
Hypertech chip/K&N filters/Accel 8.8 wires/RapidFires
Eclipse CD and 100x4 amp/Boston plates and 6x9s
Alpine Alarm w/ Keyless entry
IROC tailights/tinted windows

[This message has been edited by Jason E (edited November 07, 2000).]

 

I just pull the lines loose...let it drip for a second (watch out, you will get a bath if you stand right under it) and remove and install new one.

Make sure the flow is going the right direction.

you can take the old filter and blow through it with your mouth (mmmm...Chevron...92 octane...yummy), if you blow it into your hand you can usually see if there is a bunch of crap in it. look for brown gas.

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ASE Mechanic/Machinist/Smog Tech

1999 NBM Trans Am
1986 Chevy 3/4 ton pick up
1981 corvette
1995 Kawi ZX6R

GO #3

 

Some other things... you guys know how much I love to run my yap!

Be careful not to round off the nuts for the fuel filter. If your filter looks rusty, give the fittings a few shots of Liquid Wrench the day before you start working.

They make special wrenches for fuel lines. They grip the fuel line on 5 (or 6?) sides, instead of 3 for a normal box wrench. You might want to get a set; I think Sears is having a tool sale this week. You really just need the one for the steel line going into the fuel filter... that's where I put my flare-fitting wrench, and I put a normal open-ended-adjustable wrench on the fuel filter.

Make sure you don't cross-thread the metal pipes into the new fuel filter. The pipe fittings should turn into the new filter with easy to moderate effort.

After removing the old filter, make sure there are little, tiny, barely-noticable o-rings at the extreme tips of the hard steel lines. If one of these is missing (aka stuck in the end of the old filter), you'll get a leak- happened to me once.

Oh and watch your eyes, don't have a cigarette while you're doing this, and try not to drop the steel wrench on the concrete (spark).


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
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