haveing a little problem here, my car runs fine when i start it up but after a while after it gets warmed up it will start to die every time i have to slow down to take a turn or if i'm sitting at a stop light it will idle fine then just die out of nowhere, usually right before the light turns green, odd but i think my car is trying to be funny, but seriously does anybody know what could be causing this. I've had this problem before but took it too the shop and they said it was because my intake manifold was all dirty and thats because stupid me left the air filter out for a couple of days (ya i know....) but i've had the K&N in ever since then. Any light you can shine on this topic will be much appreciated.

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91 Blue RS with ASCD SS hood w/hood pins, Flowmaster 80 series w/3 inch dual exhaust, K&N, Hypertech Power Chip(19 years old and all this bought and paid for by myself, even the car, sorry but i cant stand all those rich little kids who have their mommy and daddy buy all their stuff)

 

Hmm...checked all your vacuum hoses and EGR valve? I dunno if this'll point you in the right direction, but my Blazer used to do the same thing. It'd run ok for a while, then do it. I think it was the TPS and the EGR valve both..but I dunno, I sold it while it was running ok. hehe

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92 Bird 3.1L Auto
Best $750 I ever spent....

DRIVE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT!

AIM name OVRCLCK350

 

I dont know what it could be, i know a moderate amount of mechanics but i dont really know how to check for stuff like if the EGR is working right and all that cooky stuff. I plan on puttin her in the shop in january, same place i took it the first time, they're pretty good.

 

OverClk's idea sounds good... EGR will kick in and open when the car's warm, at light throttle & low RPM's, and at highway speeds. If, when the car slows down, the EGR doesn't close all the way, exhaust still goes back into the motor, choking it.

If your car runs fine cold, you can probably disconnect the EGR's electrical connector. You'll get a service engine soon light & error code, but the car shouldn't die anymore- if the computer can't open the EGR valve when warm/low rpm/high speed, then the EGR can't get stuck when it closes.

Oh- did you check the computer for codes? The procedure's under the "tech area" on the main thirdgen.org page, under the "FAQ", under "Miscellaneous", at the bottom.


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

 

Don't worry, if its like my car, it'll go away!

When it was new my mom had WW3 with the service department at the Chevy dealer...it did exactly what yours does. They replaced the EGR valve, ECM, chip, adjusted the TPS, bumped the idle speed up, everything. It did it 'til I got it, I never tried to fix it, and it's only stalled 3 times in 2.5 years

Take it up on the highway and run it in 3rd for awhile, blow all the crap outta it. It may help. Maybe that's why mine doesn't stall anymore...I do a lotta highway driving and my mom stayed in town.

I know I wasn't much help Good luck.

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Jason E
'89 Camaro RS 2.8
Hypertech chip/K&N filters/Accel 8.8 wires,coil/RapidFires
Eclipse CD and 100x4 amp/Boston plates and 6x9s
JasonEE98 on AOL IM

 

I was going to try your suggestion TomP but after looking through the ol Haynes book for my car i soon realized I have one of the many cars made in 91 that have the digital EGR meaning its computer controlled so i dont think i should tinker with it by myself, it says I have to take it to a professional(figures). So i did a CCCS check for trouble codes but didnt get any, i'm so freakin confused now.

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91 Blue RS with ASCD SS hood w/hood pins, Flowmaster 80 series w/3 inch dual exhaust, K&N, Hypertech Power Chip, Bosch Platinum wires and plugs.(19 years old and all this bought and paid for by myself, even the car, sorry but i cant stand all those rich little kids who have their mommy and daddy buy all their stuff)

 

Yeah, I knew you have digital; that's why I said unhook the electrical connector. Non-digital guys like myself just unhook a vacuum hose and plug it


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

 

yeah, i think i'm having problems with my digital EGR too. when my motor is warm and i'm decelerating, the motor starts to "choke" or stutter. but i've gotton no codes so i guess i'll just wait before i replace anything.

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Dan
1990 3.1L RS
80 Series Flowmaster
It's fast(er than a 3 cyl metro)

 

exactly my problem cali, if you find the problem let me know what it was if you could, i'll do the same if i find out

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91 Blue RS with ASCD SS hood w/hood pins, Flowmaster 80 series w/3 inch dual exhaust, K&N, Hypertech Power Chip, Bosch Platinum wires and plugs.(19 years old and all this bought and paid for by myself, even the car, sorry but i cant stand all those rich little kids who have their mommy and daddy buy all their stuff)

 

mAjInRS, i had this problem about 17 months ago and it was really pissing me off. after a while it just went away so i wasn't gonna worry about it. well, about a month ago it comes back. now i'm almost 100% sure that it's EGR related. i've also heard that a dirty Idle Speed Control valve can cause the same symtoms but i checked and cleaned mine already.




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Dan
1990 3.1L RS
80 Series Flowmaster
It's fast(er than a 3 cyl metro)

 

hey cali, where's the Idle Speed Control Valve located so i can clean mine and that'll maybe help some, 'preciate it

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91 Blue RS with ASCD SS hood w/hood pins, Flowmaster 80 series w/3 inch dual exhaust, K&N, Hypertech Power Chip, Bosch Platinum wires and plugs.(19 years old and all this bought and paid for by myself, even the car, sorry but i cant stand all those rich little kids who have their mommy and daddy buy all their stuff)

 

ok, real easy to find. actually i think this is the IAC valve. idle air control. whatever, same thing. anyway, on the top of your throttle body on the passenger side you will see the valve. it's held on by 2 screws on each side. disconnect the connector and take the valve off. there will be an extended "pintle" that you need to clean. just spray some TB cleaner on the tip. then sray some more inside the opening for the valve. that's it. put the valve back on. the car may not start the first time because if the valve moved it will have to "reset" itself.

if this doesn't solve anything and you are really getting frustrated, the dealer has specific GM scanners and they should be able to diagnose a faulty digital EGR as long as the problem exists while it's in the shop. (you know how problems mysteriously go away as soon as you try to show somebody?? and then comeback as you are driving away??)

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Dan
1990 3.1L RS
80 Series Flowmaster
It's fast(er than a 3 cyl metro)

 

thnx cali, lol i know what your talkin about with the problem goin away everytime you want to show somebody then it comes back when nobody is around, happened to me so many times its not funny...wait actually it is now that i think about it.

 

My firebird is doing the same thing. I raised the idle but it still does it. I hate when my car just shuts off in the middle of a turn, its the worst.