Lately my car has been dying at idle in drive. It could just be the weather but this isn't the first time it's happened. About a year ago my idle was relly slow like it is again now but it seemed to have fixed itself. I tryed to adjust the idle then,but I noticed the little thing that says do not adjust idle. That is computer controlled anyway. Isn't it? It's ok if I put my foot on the break and give it a little gas, just enought to bump it up a coulple hundred rpms. I talked to a friend of mine and he said to change cap, rotor, and plug wires. Does that sound good? I just don't wanna be stalling at red lights when there are hot chicks sitting in the car next to me. That's kinda embarasing.

------------------
Red 1986 SC, 2.8L, rebuilt 700R4, 3.42 Posi, t-tops, 139K miles and counting, K&N air filters w/ removed air baffles, hopefully more to come!
RIP #3

I had the same problem and it was my timing. I set my timing to specifications and it doesnt stall anymore. The idle is still the same, at about 500-600. Sometimes it'll drop below 500 and stumbles but it doesnt stall anymore. Although many things could cause you to stall, a tuneup wont hurt. Do a search on this board, this topic has been dealt with many times.

------------------
87 Camaro Sport Coupe
MSD Coil, Accel 8.8mm wires, Rapidfires
K&N Filters, No Air Baffles
Z28 Hood and Rims

ooooh jasons g/f is on the board...time for some teasing...! j/k


------------------


" I'd rather run last in a full out race, than to NOT run at all ".

For Christ's sake Wendy get off this board ago go back to your friggin Honda board. All you do is say how great Honda's are and all that crap. If you'd ever race me I'd show you how much better F-bodies are than Japcrap! Also why u gotta nose into my business on this board and put up stuff like that too. Are you trying to make me the friggin laughing stock of the board or what. So do me a favor and don't pull this crap anymore. Anyways I have more pressing things to worry about now, see my new post I'm about to make.

------------------
Red 1986 SC, 2.8L, rebuilt 700R4, 3.42 Posi, t-tops, 139K miles and counting, K&N air filters w/ removed air baffles, hopefully more to come!
RIP #3

Hey Jason No im not trying to make u look bad, why would I do that get real. Yea, well I didn't say you could or couldn't beat me you prb could camaro's are alot faster. Jason why u tryin to be this way....u get mad over some the littlest things....oh well wanna know why I put that up there, well let me tell u bc that is very true what I said and ok...I won't put nothing like that up again dang chill...well goodluck with your water pump later....
wendy

Mine used to do that too, although I have a 5-speed. The revs would dive at lights...but after cleaning the throtle body and the IAC (Idle Air Control) it didnt do it anymore

LMAO!! Sweet merciful crap! Make it stop!! LMAO!!! Sorry man, but I've had a loooong bad night, and this is just what I needed to lighten it up...

------------------
--'87 Camaro LT --
Currently undergoing a 2.8->3.4 swap.....

So, where is the IAC on a 1985 MPFI?
My throttle body is clean.
Thanks

------------------
Chat Soon,
KED85
Karl
1985 Firebird 2.8 to 3.4 swap project for Smog Happy LA, CA

The IAC is on the bottom of the throtle body below the Throtle Position Sensor. It is conected by a plug that has 2 wires.

If I hand cleaned my throttle body, (with brake cleaner on a rag), did I get it?
Is it on the front or the back of the blade?

------------------
Chat Soon,
KED85
Karl
1985 Firebird 2.8 to 3.4 swap project for Smog Happy LA, CA

Hey, at least she's not telling you to sell the car & get a Honda! (And I wasn't planning on laughing, but that's just me.) Anyway:

Actually the IAC's on the top passenger side of the throttle body. You couldn't reach the IAC pintle/passageway with brake cleaner on a rag, Karl. With the engine off, key out, unplug the IAC motor (4 pin connector). Unscrew the IAC with a large open-ended adjustable wrench, you'll see the pintle covered with carbon crap. Make sure your cleaner doesn't drip "into" the motor itself. I usually hold 'em with the pintle pointing downward, so gravity keeps the cleaner out.

Also shoot some "TB/Intake Cleaner for fuel injected engines" down the IAC passageway. It's that hole you see from the front passenger side of the TB, next to the butterfly. It runs from that side up to the hole for the IAC motor.

Jason, I think in the Tech Section there's an article on adjusting the TPS, minimum idle, and IAC. The procedure that Tom K shows for a v8 TPI is the exact same for our V6 MPFI. All you need is a digital multimeter for the TPS.

------------------
-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

[This message has been edited by TomP (edited March 23, 2001).]

Tom,
way cool answer.
got to do that
got 6 month old on lap
i'll put him down first,
is there anything to adjust after i clean this part?
i only have a ohm meter, not digital tho

------------------
Chat Soon,
KED85
Karl
1985 Firebird 2.8 to 3.4 swap project for Smog Happy LA, CA

I think the only reason you use digital is to read those small #'s accurately (0.55 volts). In reality, like you said, you're just reading the resistance of the sensor, and it's just a potentiometer, nothing digital about it.

I never tried my big fancy analog meter on it, because I found my digital meter for $5 through Harbor Fright! It was the same one a co-worker paid $30 for... he was a little upset. They're selling it for $13 now, here's the link: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/taf...emnumber=35761

They do have a $7 one... it's here:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/taf...emnumber=41738

Now, unless things have changed in the past 2 years, don't order from them on the internet. When I tried that, it took almost 2 months to get my order. I called, and found out there's only one guy that processes the internet orders! Things might've changed by now, but calling on the phone gets your order processed normally (right away as opposed to two months later). Actually, you're in California, right? Shipping's probably only a day for you! They have retail stores, too...

Anyway hope that helps... the jumper cables I used were sold by Radio Shack, 20 inch long, aligator clips on each side. I had to "slightly damage" the clips to get them to force into the sensor, but, oh well, they were cheap enough ($3 for 8).


------------------
-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!