Oil Pressure and Vac leaks...Code 44
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Car: 88 Firebird
Engine: 2.8
Oil Pressure and Vac leaks...Code 44
OK so I have a few issues that I need some assistance with.
1. Oil Pressure...The gauge seems to float alot. More pressure when accelerating and less when idling after the car has warmed up. Tested the gauge and it is fine. Put a new oil pressure sender in it and still having the same issues. Any advice?
2. Vac leaks...How much of a pain will it be to replace all vac lines? I had the codes ran and code 44(lean code) popped. Mech said it was vac leaks. Ran a smoke test and it looked like the engine was on fire there was so much coming out. Will these leaks be causing me to idle at about 500 rpm?
Would just doing a total gasket and vac line replacement be better?
Not sure what I should do and any advice you guys can give is greatly appreciated!!!
The engine is a 2.8.
Steve
1. Oil Pressure...The gauge seems to float alot. More pressure when accelerating and less when idling after the car has warmed up. Tested the gauge and it is fine. Put a new oil pressure sender in it and still having the same issues. Any advice?
2. Vac leaks...How much of a pain will it be to replace all vac lines? I had the codes ran and code 44(lean code) popped. Mech said it was vac leaks. Ran a smoke test and it looked like the engine was on fire there was so much coming out. Will these leaks be causing me to idle at about 500 rpm?
Would just doing a total gasket and vac line replacement be better?
Not sure what I should do and any advice you guys can give is greatly appreciated!!!
The engine is a 2.8.
Steve
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Car: 2003 Hyundai Tiburon GT
Engine: 2.7L V6
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Re: Oil Pressure and Vac leaks...Code 44
1. Oil pressure is fine... The oil doesn't have as much pressure when hot because it's thinner due to the heat, and low engine speeds don't produce as much oil flow through the system to increase the oil pressure. It's when the oil pressure gets super low that you have to worry about it (less than 20 PSI).
2. If there was that many leaks in the vac lines and what not, a top end gasket replacement with vac lines would definitely be in your favor.
2. If there was that many leaks in the vac lines and what not, a top end gasket replacement with vac lines would definitely be in your favor.
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Re: Oil Pressure and Vac leaks...Code 44
Thanks Mav.
The Oil Pressure is getting down next to nothing at stop lights. Then will go up as I accelerate to higher than normal levels. Not sure what going on with it.
Would a small leak in the pan cause the pressure to go nuts? The guy that had it before me bottomed out and the pan is bent up right around the drain plug and it has a small leak. Maybe a new pan/gasket and a screen clean will help? I am sure it wont hurt!
Steve
The Oil Pressure is getting down next to nothing at stop lights. Then will go up as I accelerate to higher than normal levels. Not sure what going on with it.
Would a small leak in the pan cause the pressure to go nuts? The guy that had it before me bottomed out and the pan is bent up right around the drain plug and it has a small leak. Maybe a new pan/gasket and a screen clean will help? I am sure it wont hurt!
Steve
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Re: Oil Pressure and Vac leaks...Code 44
im thinking just intake and valve covers, i got all that in a set for $20 from autozone, and vacum lines should only run you about $20 aswell
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Re: Oil Pressure and Vac leaks...Code 44
oil pan gasket is less than $10 too, same for intake manifolds
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Re: Oil Pressure and Vac leaks...Code 44
Cheapest oil pan gasket I've seen, even on eBay with shipping, is $20... And oil pans are about $20-40 (there's a few nice shiny chrome ones on eBay!).
Throttle body gasket kit is about $12, intake and up gasket set is $25, injector o-rings $10, vacuum hose about $20 when you add up the various packages and then factor in the coolant hose required for the brake booster vac hose (you will also need clamps for this as there is no exact size available, and do expect the hose to flatten out as the engine is running as there is no way around it, but the brakes will still work fine).
I'd say that if you don't hear the engine knocking when hot at idle, the gauge is off. Very common for the gauge to be inaccurate... As for the leak, as long as there is enough oil in the pan to keep the sump submerged, it won't have any effect on the oil pressure. Just make sure to keep an eye on the oil level until you get a new pan.
Throttle body gasket kit is about $12, intake and up gasket set is $25, injector o-rings $10, vacuum hose about $20 when you add up the various packages and then factor in the coolant hose required for the brake booster vac hose (you will also need clamps for this as there is no exact size available, and do expect the hose to flatten out as the engine is running as there is no way around it, but the brakes will still work fine).
I'd say that if you don't hear the engine knocking when hot at idle, the gauge is off. Very common for the gauge to be inaccurate... As for the leak, as long as there is enough oil in the pan to keep the sump submerged, it won't have any effect on the oil pressure. Just make sure to keep an eye on the oil level until you get a new pan.
Last edited by Maverick H1L; 04-22-2011 at 09:39 PM.
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