Does anyone have a picture of the wiring under the dash on the drivers side?
I have an aftermarket alarm on my Camaro and I believe it might have something to do with my no-start issues. I need to see what wires need to stay and which ones I can rip out. I don't know the brand of the alarm.
Not long after I got the car I had a no-start issue due to the aftermarket alarm, it didn't do anything when I turned the key. I disabled the alarm with the valet button and it's been disabled ever since. I drove it for a year or better like that.

I had issues with the car dieing a while back and it's been parked waiting on me to fix it but I'm at a loss as to what could be wrong with it.

The last time the car ran it only did for about 7 miles. I was hot rodding it a little bit and when it died for good I had floored it and as the rpms got high it died as if I had just turned the key off.

The engine will start for 2-3 seconds then die like it ran out of gas, every time I try to start it.
If I touch the gas pedal or the throttle linkage after it starts then it will die immediately.

I don't think it's VATS because the security light goes off after a second or two when I turn the key to the on position.
The fuel filter only has a few thousand miles on it.
The fuel pump relay is new. The old one and the new one both tested good.
The fuel pump primes when the key is turned on and when I tested it a while back the pressure got up to what it should be and held while running.
The car started the same with carb and choke cleaner sprayed into the throttle body as it did without it.
The ignition module is new.
The plugs/wires/cap are new.
The coil is new.
The coil gives off a strong spark
The oil pressure sending unit isn't too old but it does make a buzzing noise if I push the pigtail toward the unit a little bit.
I don't believe I have any codes, I'll have to go check that again.
The timing is correct, I set it before the last time I drove the car.
My catalytic converter is hollow.
The battery is new.

Could this be a case of a really loose timing chain or a chain that jumped a couple teeth?

Is there a sensor that would kill the engine after 2 seconds every time you start it?

What does the map sensor do if it's bad?

Will the oil pressure sending unit not allow the engine to run if it's bad?

Any help would be appreciated, I've been driving my 11.8 mpg truck for the last 5 months or more and I miss being able to go twice as far on a gallon of the liquid gold.

 

I think I figured it out.
I pulled my upper plenum off earlier and I had two fuel injectors at 12.2 ohms, 2 at 12 ohms, 1 at 11.9 ohms and one at 4.6 ohms.

I wonder why it wouldn't run on carb cleaner since it seems to be an injector issue.

 

Ok, I priced some new injectors and they run something like $58 each. I want to get all 6 since mine are 20 years old.
I'm debating on which ones I want to get though. It's between the BWD, GP Sorensen and possibly the F1ZE injectors from the 2.9l ford motors. Does anyone know if the first two would be worth getting? I've read on here to stay away from Delphi so I haven't even looked at those.

 

wait a day or two, there is a guy who will chime in, they rebuild old ones and sell at discount.

 

I just called and ordered some injectors from SouthBay and got a pleasant surprise when the woman told me that they are Bosch.
I wanted to get them today so I could get my car back on the road but I don't want to spend almost $400 for some non-Bosch fuel injectors.

 

Got the new injectors in today, then it got dark on me. Tomorrow I'm going to break out the air compressor to make sure there aren't any puddles of gas anywhere in the engine that haven't dried yet then reconnect the battery and see if it'll start.

I have the rear end jacked way up in the air because I was going to change the fuel pump before I found out that I had a bad injector. I haven't dropped it yet because I'm going to change the rear shocks before I start driving it again.
Now with that info out of the way, did you know that if your tank is higher than the little block thing that connects the fuel lines to the fuel rail that the gas will come out in an endless stream? I do. I had to run to the shed and grab a couple rubber plugs to stop it so I wouldn't drain the tank.

 

I think I got it fixed. I'm about to take a test drive.

I forgot to hook a vacuum line up to the back of the throttle body and it had a massive air sucking noise and intake backfires.
Plugged that back in and that didn't fix it.
Realized that the throttle body gasket I used was the wrong one, put the old one back on and it started and ran like it should.

 

That thing runs great now. I can light the tires up without touching the brake when I'm on clean (no sand) dry pavement. And it'll power brake with ease.
So remanufactured injectors and adjusting the timing worked wonders for my car.