I somewhat recently changed to the following parts in my '91 3.1 : Accel cap & rotor, Accel 8.8 wires, ACDelco Rapidfire plugs, MSD Blaster coil.

The engine seems like it gained power/responsiveness at the higher RPMs but it seems like I lost power/responsiveness at the lower RPMs. Also the car used to idle smoothly at startup when cold. Now it idles rougher (at a lower RPM) at startup when cold. After a minute or two of warmup it idles fine.

What is causing this? It is really frustrating and any help would be appreciated.


In addition, I'm gonna change my fuel filter. I already changed my tranny fluid. Changed the shocks/struts to KYB. Changed the front/rear swaybar bushings to Energy Suspension. Changed to a K&N filter. Bought new tires. I'm also thinking of getting a SFC.

What should I do next (non-cosmetic) to make my car run/handle like new or better?

 

Just a tip. If you disconnect the battery, it sorta resets the computer for a while. With me it takes like 5 start ups and it goes back to normal. Hopefully that your problem, because it fixes itself. Good luck

 

Check for simple vacuum leaks.
Also be aware you may have engine run on, by using the coil you have. Shut off key, engine does not.
I had that problem using my Accel coil.
I had to shut off car, by pulling coil wire (I used a string), then disconnect the battery for about 1/2 hour. I recently installed the cure, sent to me by MSD, an inline resistor.
Let me know if ya need one, I have 5 more. And simple instructions. Cut a wire, solder, use heat shrink tubing to protect and you are done.

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Chat Soon,
KED85
Karl
1985 Firebird 2.8 to 3.4 swap project for Smog Happy LA, CA

 

I pretty confident that its not a problem with the computer needing to be reset or because of a computer reset. Also, the engine doesn't "run on" and shuts off quite normally. I could have a vacume leak somewhere and will check it out to be sure.

Anyone else with an idea?

[This message has been edited by Belker (edited May 23, 2001).]

 

Were the Accel 8.8's a custom wire set (pre-cut & terminated), or a universal (cut the wires & crimp the ends on yourself)? If you did them yourself, pull each wire off, and check it with a multitestor to make sure you're getting the resistance you should. Maybe you've got a bad crimp somewhere.

I say this because I did a test once... I took off my MSD wires and put stock ones on. (My MSD set was actually being repaired by MSD, the boots burnt, MSD replaced them for free!!) I had an Accel supercoil on at the time- the car seemed slower to respond off the line. When I got the MSD wires back, I put them on, and unhooked the Accel coil. With the stock coil & MSD wires, the car lost high-rpm umph. So... that's why I'm guessing at a wire problem.

But, something else could be choking your car now that you've got some good stuff on there.

Is the cap tightened down securly? I worked on an '83 Camaro 2.8 once.. the cap wasn't tight at all! I was surprised the car was running.


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

 

I mentioned the ignition run on situation, as that is a "common" problem, with aftermarket coils. I read an article in Chevy Hi Perf., as I have an Accel unit and it does that, every once in a great while.
Hopefully, it will not happen to ya.
I finally installed my inline resistor and hope it's gone for good!
My Wife drives this car, with my Son, sometimes and it's happened to her. She was scared.
Check every hose, and ESPECIALLY turn them upside down. The side facing the "heat" wears thru the hose. I have found so many hoses with holes on my 211,000 mile S-10 Blazer (I'm doing a head swap on it), I'm stunned it ran. On my Firebird, you will find your problem probably at the BACK one at the base of the distributor. That is an odd sized hose and you need get the next largest (I think it was 1/2") and use electrical tape to take up spacing. It connects to the large PCV thing on the driver side valve cover. ALL those hoses are old, fragile. SO IS THE PLASTIC Be patient with them and expect to find lots of little leaks. IT is a mission a real PITB one. But, once done, the car purrs.

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Chat Soon,
KED85
Karl
1985 Firebird 2.8 to 3.4 swap project for Smog Happy LA, CA

 

TomP - the wires were pre-cut & terminated so I hope the crimps are good. Maybe I didn't completely seat one of the wires onto one of the plugs because they were kinda tight and I couldn't really hear the nice click sound like when one is connected to the cap. I'll check that out. Could it be the fuel filter? I haven't changed it yet but I have one bought. Also the cap was a real pain in the butt to install and get both screws lined up. When I removed the old cap it looked like the plastic circular part of the rotor and the plastic circular part of the cap were touching and wearing on each other on 1/4 of the circle (I hope with description make some sense). Does this mean there could be something wrong with the way my cap is fitting on the distributor? Any ideas here?

KED85 - I took a quick look to see if I could find a vacume leak and didn't see anything obvious. Its been raining for a weak and I don't have a garage. On the next nice day I'll do a better check and see what I can find. The vacume lines seem to be in pretty good shape considering they're 10 years old.


Thanks for trying to help.

 

Quick help. Check all the areas, you were around with the tune up. Be careful.
If ya can keep engine running so so, let your ear tell you where a leak may be.
On my S-10 Blazer, again, all teh hoses with back openings, were on the side I could not see, the bottom. Top of hose looked fine.

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Chat Soon,
KED85
Karl
1985 Firebird 2.8 to 3.4 swap project for Smog Happy LA, CA

 

Belker, it could've been that whoever did the cap & rotor before you didn't seat the rotor all the way onto the distributor. I wouldn't worry about it.

The fuel filter could definately be causing a stumble.. as could other stuff that you didn't change...

There's the 'ol "pull a plug wire off a plug test". You need an insulated spark-plug-wire puller for this. With the engine running, and using the insulated puller, you remove one spark plug wire from one spark plug at a time. If the engine rpm drops, then that cylinder is good. If the engine RPM doesn't drop, that cylinder wasn't working to begin with (and didn't affect how the engine ran).


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

 

would it work to spray ether on the vacuum lines to see if there are any leaks(the engine would die) ir is that only on the intake?

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87 Camaro 2.8 MPFI
Crane Cams 8.5 MM FireWires
Bosch Platinum +4 plugs
BFG Radial TA's (the tires are really sticky. that's why i can't peel out. I SWEAR!)

 

Pretty much correct.
Give that a "shot".
ALOT of under hood light, really helps, too!
Start abround where you were working with.
Pull the plug connections off at the cap, easier access.
DO NOT USE BARE FINGERS!
USE EXACTLY, WHAT TOM SAID!!!
Look at hoses, try to first.

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Chat Soon,
KED85
Karl
1985 Firebird 2.8 to 3.4 swap project for Smog Happy LA, CA

 

What else do you recommend that I change? (I'm guessing the timing chain should be replaced sometime soon, what else?)

The car has 120K miles and I have no maintenance record for the first 100K.

 

Northern Auto Parts
800-831-0884
Package deal of about $55, including shipping.
Get a new water pump, also for 10-20.
Hoses, go without saying.

------------------
Chat Soon,
KED85
Karl
1985 Firebird 2.8 to 3.4 swap project for Smog Happy LA, CA

 

I've also changed (sorry I didn't mention earlier), since I got the car, the water pump, radiator fluid, oil & filter, the muffler, the middle exhaust pipe, all 4 brakes, front brake lines (rubber), and all 4 tires.

My Haynes manual suggests that I should change the rear axle oil, PVC valve, oxygen sensor (how important is this to change) and check EGR valve (Does my 91 3.1 have a EGR valve? What is it?).

What else should I do? Or upgrade?

(I now have the Northern Auto Parts website bookmarked.)

[This message has been edited by Belker (edited May 26, 2001).]

 

All that stuff's a good idea to change... I do the rear axle fluid & PCV valve yearly with my major tuneup.

The oxy sensor tells the computer how rich/lean the air/fuel mixture is, and the computer changes it according to the reading. It's probably a good idea to change it if it's never been done... If you buy a Bosch one, part #12014 is what you'd use. That one comes with a new pigtail connector.


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

 

try different plugs ac rapid are not that great a plug...I have heard alot of bad things about them....