On thing i am seeing here is alot of people asking how to make power out of these little mills. First thing you need to know is you will NEVER get the speed and power a itermediatly built 350 will get, but you can get these little blocks to push low 14's to high 13's if done right. I have researched this for over a year and built a 3.1L in my 91 firebird. Best time i got was a 13.95 on a g-tech. We never took her down to the track as at the time texas was under water and money problems arose which forced me to sell the engine and reinstall a lightly modded 3.1L back into my car. These plans can be used to build a 2.8L and the 3.4L as well.

Block:

Either buy a short block from a auto parts store or get your block race preped

dipped
bored 1mm or .030
honed
sonic checked
decks surfaced - if needed
cam bearings installed
new freeze plugs

Its actually cheaper to get a short block from the parts store, and you can get a bored over version.

Heads:

Big debates come from this. Beleive me tho, these heads are lacking in one area and one area alone - the exhaust side. So do the following:

Shaved - to straighten any warped areas.
cleaned
3 angle valve job
SS valves
Springs, retainers and locks
LIGHT porting on the intake side
Moderate work on the exhaust side
1.52 or 1.6 roller rockers - 1.6 WILL require taller valve covers - usually custom job.

STAY AWAY from the metal vanes!!!


Intakes - 3 piece

Same goes here... the flow is marginal on a stock unit however only a gasket match job will make em flow better. the biggest thing to remember is to STAY AWAY from any metal shaving from the base piece. Gasket match and blend the middle and top piece. Blend only 1/2 to 1 inch into the ports, remove metal only to smooth, i.e. do not go grind crazy!!! Gasket match the base to 2nd only - again no metal removal from the base, it can be smoothed but thats upto you, the walls are VERY THIN.

TB:

Alot of fiero racers have contacts to get the TB redone. They open it up, and it flows alot better. Research this as it cost me 200.00 to do. I sent them a working spare and it took about 3 weeks. The fiero piece WILL NOT WORK. You can adapt a V8 TB to work too, the choice is yours and cost wise is about the same if done smart and by you.

Chip:

Alot of debate goes on about the chips. The best i have found (my opinion) is jet. They claim 15 to 17hp gains, i do not know if i felt it or not altho in the upper range the car climbed abit stronger. The BEST chip to get is a custom one where they dyno tune it. This will cost 300 to 500 and a day at the dyno. Closest place can be found on the net for your area, lots of perfomance shops do do this work.

Cam:

A 2030 to a custom job - depends on what you are wanting and what you are building. Alot of companies will walk you thru this.

Convertor:

Same as a cam, get professional help and have your engine plan infront of you. I used a 2500 stall. The car climbed hard and it would rez abit before it would start to move making it seem like i was racing off the line all the time. These are VERY dependant on engine target rpm, weight, cam and gears used. They are also the LAST thing you want to buy in the build up.

Headers,

they are either custom made or pacesetter rebends (3.1firebird rules!!!)

Y-pipe,

Get it done, if your anything like mine - its more of a T then a Y. Theres flow here thats beig restricted.

Highflo cat... i did not get one... not sure of the gains.

Gears: 3:42 to 3:73... altho i did do a speed vs. rpm on a computer program with 4:11's and it didn't seem that bad, i think it was 2800rpm at 75mph as compared to 2100rpm at 75mph stock when i first got the car.

Posi - a must, get a drop in unit with gears. Altho i have a tight limited slip that will spin both tires, i never justified the 600+ dollars for parts and labor.

MSD 6AL and coil. Get it!! you will need it to take advantage of the new power and to spool the engine faster. Plan/build the engine for a 6500rpm redline and set the msd at 6K

Fuel managament: a holley contender is what i used, it rocks and allows you to dial in a fuel curve in short order. they are abit costly BUT the advantage is they totally control fuel and spark thru out the whole rpm range. No lean/rich conditions once you dial in. They also fool the engine in NOS and boost conditions making it think its not boosted and such.


NOS: Flat out.... With 50 to 75hp NOS jets you can run cast pistons. No need to get forged custom jobs. Run it smart, make sure you have ample fuel pressure and do not run higher amounts. NOS is safe and NON FLAMMABLE! It supports combustion but will not catch fire on its own or explode if a match its put into its stream. People who say otherwise (sorry no flames meant) are BS'in ya and do not know what they are talking about.

Underdrive pullies:

Get the crank only, add the alt pully and risk going down in charge fast in hot rush hour traffic.

Cold air:

Rig one up with a K@N filter - they are worth it and will really put out with a built engine.

Exhast:

I run a dyno max cat back... i like it, its no too loud and gets a nice note at idle to about 3K rpm

I am sure i have forgotten the little things. Use your good judgement, ask lots of questions and seek alot of tech help in your build. A good build will cost about 3 to 4K depending on how ya go. Some will be cheaper then that too. It depends on how much you want to put into the car and the engine. I would strongly suggest, traction bars, wider tires, sway bars, tower brace, ram air fiberglass hood. Tranny rebuild for a firm shift. With the above and running 3:73 gears with 75 to 90hp nos <--- yes i say 50 to 75 only. Expect to run 14.8 to 15.4 on engine, add nos and expect 13.8 to 14.3. 0 to 60 should dial in at around 5.5 to 7.3 depending on NOS use or not and how well you are hooking.


As a last resort, if you do not want to build a engine. heres afew power adders that will work on engines in good mech running order.

see exhaust
See intakes
see TB
see y-pipe
see chip
see pullies
see cold air
see tranny
see gears/posi
see cam
see nos - 50 to 75hp only! on a well running stock engine WITH MSD/COIL mod's

When i first got my firebird i was running exhuast, chip, pullies, cold air and shift kit and was doing a best of 9.09 in the 0 to 60. I held up against afew 3.8L mustangs, lost to afew. Wasn't the fastest car in the world but was respectable.


Hope this helps afew people wanting to add afew thing to there cars We have a dying breed in cars and the 3rd gens are getting rarer. Don't let the V8 guys bash ya and keep your heads up - most importantly, stay safe on the roads...

 

I agree, we could have fun, but NOS is needed to make it real fun... Ever been to a track you don't see to many cars running 13's most are 14's and 15's

 

WAY EXCELLENT TIPS AND SUGGESTIONS.
Thank you.
I incorporated some of those ideas already.
Outta curosity, at what power level do you suggest playing with the heads?
We have a debate going.
I say, at a certan, "street constant" level of driving, no true gain for dollar spent.
I also suggest 95% of your suggestions for the heads.
I say save the porting work dollars, spend it elsewhere.
I recently spent 10 hours on one head (a small block chevy head). That costs money for someone else to do that work and their knowledge.
Any pics of your custom "Y" pipe?

------------------
Chat Soon,
KED85
Karl
1985 Firebird 2.8 to 3.4 swap project for Smog Happy LA, CA

 

The folks at gm almost made a perfect engine in the 60 degree block. Thats alot of the reasons that boats use them, fiero racers use em, and alot of the dirt track migets use em. The 2 areas that the engine is lacking is the intakes and the heads. Thats where the flow is seriously restricted. I would suggest to anyone to get a pair of old heads and get em done over. On the install do the intakes as well. That alone will net ya 15 to 20 mid range to highend hp and 10 to 15 in torque. ITS THAT restrictive. Also realize that your engine in daily use has to climb above 4500 rpm when ya take off or pass, where the engine starts to lag is at 4500 rpm to 5700 rpm. that lag is 1 to 2 seconds of climb time - climb time meaning 1/2 to 1 full second in time the engine could be hitting second and back into its power curve. Time your engine in a quick first to second gear, full throttle run, time it as it hits 4500 rpm to the time it hits second gear. A good port on the exhuast side and a strong MSD and coil will prove to be WELL worth the investment. Also a good gasket matching.

I have to disagree with out on the spent the dollars elsewhere. Spend em on your intake, TB and heads. A engine that breaths will make more power - its that simple. 3.1firebirds main problem is simply this and this alone (my opinion):

1: his intakes, heads and TB are restricting what his headers and y-pipe are able to move.

2: His convertor is not matched to his setup

Thats it. Change those and he will see high 14's to low 15's

At the moment his engine is a great breather AFTER the headers.

As for you KED.....

A 3.4L engine should be able to make 240hp on a race preped build. Add 50hp NOS and you should see 13.7 to 13.9 in the 1/4 on a V6 -on a auto tranny - EASY. According to my computer at 3600lbs and 260RWHp ya should see 13.98. I have been thinking about going and buying a shortblock 3.4L and building it. At this moment i am researching 9.8:1 pistons for a 3.4L and a custom grind cam that would yeild a 260hp FI engine, capable of a 14.75 1/4 on engine alone. More realistically i will prolly see 240FWHP.

 

yeah, basically i am looking to do the same...........big cam and higher compression in a 3.4 build-up.............i really need a lot of info on this though...........

i should be able to start the buildup about 1/2 through my first semester in college because i am going to become a GM auto technician

 

That truely the best way to do this project... Get a stand and build it piece by piece over the winter time. To get the higher compression pistons is abit of a trick. Unfortunatly there is no real market for them. You can find 12:1 but nothing lower unless you go stock 8.9:1 and 12 is way to high for the street. You will have to buy a single piston for you application (about 20 bucks) and take measurements on it and fill out a form - then pray - alot..... Actually a good custom shop can help ya and many times they will do it for the pure ammusement of it - but hey, free is free. I would tell em its for a miget racer and that you need 9.7:1. I have heard you can run 10.5:1 and it will work great but i do not like pushing things to far.

Anyways get a engine stand, start your build and before you know it you will have a decent engine. Or get all the little parts and then buy a short block, install everything on the stand and go from there

 

I appreciate the input.
I hahve so many project going (two V-8 engines and a car rebuilds with it & child), that my plate is full.
For those that want to invest the effort, anything can be done.
IF YA GOT THE TALENT OR KNOW WHERE TO BUY THAT TALENT.
For those without, go get a running 3.4 and slip it under the hood and enjoy the results, right away.
Way easier & quicker.

------------------
Chat Soon,
KED85
Karl
1985 Firebird 2.8 to 3.4 swap project for Smog Happy LA, CA

 

whats the cc in the 3.4 heads chamber???

yeah....i think i mite have found a few places that can make custom pistons........
i think federal mogul was one of them.......


oh yeah, when they say blueprinting and balancing the engine, what does that mean???


you read my mind too, thats exactly what i hope to do........build this sucker up over the winter......i just need to understand everything so i dont run before i can walk.......

[This message has been edited by 1991tealRSt-topGuy (edited July 12, 2001).]

 

Balancing is simple in theory.
Making the internal recipricating assembly equaled weight OR each piston weight the same.
AND blueprinting is in theory the same too.
Making sure each measurement is proper according to rebuilding specs.
ACTUALLY MOST ENGINES REBUILT ARE DONE THIS WAY.
Will it help?
SURE
But, ya only pay extra for the time, the pistons are equal weighted by the person doing the machining work.
Rest is up to rebuild (you or machinist).

------------------
Chat Soon,
KED85
Karl
1985 Firebird 2.8 to 3.4 swap project for Smog Happy LA, CA