I will be replacing head gaskets on an 85 bird. Was wondering if feasible to install a turbo where the y-pipe conects to the cat, or place right behind the y conection near the engine bay. Was thinking of "aquiring" a turbo setup from an old d***e daytona & put it to better use.
Also, if these put out no more than 8-9 psi, if that, would i actually need an intercooler?
thanks in advance.

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85 Firebird. $150.00
2.8 Auto.
Blown Head Gasket.
Mods Galore to Come....

 

Check this out http://members.nbci.com/dlagrua/turbo.htm

 

Check this out, too.
I paid $300 for my 1985 Firebird.
Have fun!
https://www.thirdgen.org/messgboard/...ML/001462.html

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Chat Soon,
KED85
Karl
1985 Firebird 2.8 to 3.4 swap project for Smog Happy LA, CA

[This message has been edited by KED85 (edited August 02, 2001).]

 

HE did his TC for under 1K, bet he got close to 275hp on the 2.8L too. Think about it.... our bays use the same engine and got more room.... All it takes is to try it.

David

 

wonder how it sounds ? is there a sound difference , Not that familar with turbos guys .Im thinking of buying a used one and re-building it .
Wayne

 

Project 85 2.8 , damn you got a good deal on that bird !!!.....post some pics
Wayne

 

The bird needs some work: missing a head liner, and the discovery of coolant in the oil/vise~versa
However, the body is in good shape
The color appears to be a cream/beige, never seen it on an f-body before.

Also, anybody know how much psi the turbo sunbirds/cavalies were pushing? just thinking of boost + 9 to 1 cr = BOOM

At least the guy I bought it from has shown some class, guess he missed the bird 'cause he bought himself an 01 formula.

[This message has been edited by Project: 85 2.8 bird (edited August 02, 2001).]

 

Project, Unless the turbo your using is self cooled, which I doubt since the only manufacturer in the market that sells one is 'Aerocharger', you'll need to add an oil pump to drain the oil from the TC to the pan. TC's have to be placed above the oil pan to dump the oil being fed from the motor. Putting a TC near the 'Y' pipe won't work without a pump.

 

how about running a T fitting from the oil sending unit? I havn't looked for this yet but i think it might work

this is, if the prssure from the pump is sufficient(sp?) enough to do the job.

[This message has been edited by Project: 85 2.8 bird (edited August 02, 2001).]

 

My Firebird is the same color as yours.
Do you have the WS6 suspension on it, too?
Look at the front sway bar. It'll be THICK!
And the mag wheels are they the hard straight lines wheels?

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Chat Soon,
KED85
Karl
1985 Firebird 2.8 to 3.4 swap project for Smog Happy LA, CA

 

I will be crawling under the car this weekend, will look at the sway bar & exhaust. as for the wheels......no mags, some funky covers looking like 2nd gen honeycombs/snowflakes w/ 3rd gen bird in the hub.

[This message has been edited by Project: 85 2.8 bird (edited August 02, 2001).]

 

Feeding the TC is no problem, no matter where you put it, the engine pump usually has enough pressure to feed it.

Gravity is the issue here since it is used to drain the oil based on where the TC is located, usually above the pan.

 

How's this: put on a mechanical fuel pump for an 83 f-bird (19.99), plumb the intake to the turbo retun line & the pump output to the oil pan?

 

That idea sounds plausible but how do you control the amount of oil being sucked out of the turbo in order to assure that the bearings have been lubrictaed sufficiently? You complicate the installation by placing the turbo at that location. I have yet to see any setup like this at all using oil-cooled TCs.
Read some information at this site to get a better idea of what to expect when installing a system to a normally asperated engine:

http://www.egarrett.com/supp-how_turbo_works.html

 

ok the oiling of turbo's is easy... the oil pressure sending unit. tap it for the oil feed, its a small fitting to supply forced oil. Now the drain is automatic, the oil only can go one way! no need to put a pump to pump the oil out, just have a drain tube to the top of the oil pan.

The sound would be a little different, especially at WOT. as the turbo spools up the exhaust will change. To exit properly you NEED A HIGH FLOW CAT AND A 3 INCH EXHAUST to get it right. I know its blasphemy but look in a few import mags and get a water injection system instead of an intercooler.

 

sorry forgot something... please do not DO NOT put the turbo at the Y pipe, you will melt the metal there on the floor board.

 

But what's wrong with melting the floor board? It brings back memories of my when my best friend put headers on his 73 mustang and had no carpet in the cabin.....rebocks can melt too fast

Actually thought of looking at Turb* mag last night , then maybe get a "Zaterans" bumper sticker

no turbo at (factory)y-pipe...guess a custom job is the call, prob use some pvc to experiment with routing
thanks to evryone for your input
pics in prob a week or so

 

Well, his idea was to put the turbo AT the Y pipe. Last I checked, the "Y" pipe is just below the drain level of the oil pan, Since when does the laws of gravity cease to exist for his configuration?

 

1. As a novice to the wonderful world of forced induction, how much hotter will the turbo get compaired to just the exhaust pipes?

1a) if significaint rise, how about heat coating on the fire wall & heat deflector (heat sink between the turbo & firewall?

2. If I have to locate the turbo above the oil pan, than I just have to play with exhaust routing.


Some things ae difficult, but nothing is impossible (unless you're low on scratch $$)

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85 Firebird. $150.00
2.8 Auto.
Blown Head Gasket.
Mods Galore to Come....

 

If i were you i would get the turbo, rebuild it, then mount it in the engine bay using angle iron. From there drive the car to your pro shop, have them make your header for the turbo and a header for the other side. That will be you most expensive thing. Order a chip - make sure it is reprogramable. Set the turbo's relief valve to 5 psi. Fab the intake tubing, pop the chip in and go for a light cruise. LISTEN for detonation. I would get a MSD boost master tho, it retards as boost is built. From there get the chip programed for your car. I would imagine theres not much differance between the fiero turbo chip and what you want to do. Take to the guys that program those. I would say with a boost master and under 6psi you should be fine. The fiero guy did it all for under 1K cash... Not bad.


David

 

ok, ok, I'll put the turbo somewhere else (maybe )... but how about induction:

1. CAI from the front of the car, maybe see about the free ram air?
or
2. do the cowl induction. Get air from the base of the windshield (low pressure), where the blower motor gets it from.

pick your poison

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85 Firebird. $150.00
2.8 Auto.
Blown Head Gasket.
Mods Galore to Come....

 

as far as heat ioff the turbo, just under normal driving at night when you can actually see it, my bros thunderbird turno coupe glows red. sooo I'm guessing its pretty dang hot, i dont have any exact temp estimates though

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Derek Johsnon
90 red rs 3.1 Mods--hypertech thermomaster chip, 160 degree thermostat, and K&N filter
Soon coming: 1.52 rocker arms, 3.73 , 2400rpm stall conv. compucam 2030, and msd 6a. all by christmas!!!
I Live my life a quarter mile at a time(the fast in the furious), only it takes me like 18 seconds to do it in this v6!!!

 

sorry I did'nt see that he WANTED to install the turbo under the oil pan... my bad... but the best place to mount it would be behind the rad where theres plenty of room to play with... then the oiling and drain would be no prob...

 

Project85,

JMO, but the best thing for you to do at this point when considering putting a turbo in you car is to pick up 2 books: "Maximum Boost" by Corky Bell and "Turbochargers" by Hugh Macinnes. These references will just about tell you all you need to know on the ins and outs when doing a project such as yours. Much of the configuration depends on what amount of boost you are looking to use. You may get away with a stock configuration if you keep the boost to about 8 or so, BUT, would highly recommend you get a Fuel Ratio detection gauge to monitor the o2 sensor voltage to make sure your not leaning out. Your system uses a MAF and there is a limit to it's capabiltiies in detecting airflow to insure that the air/fuel ratio is within spec. If detonation also occurs you may either need to use a boost timing device to retard the ignition or an intercooler, which I recommend more so. There's so much to investigate to determine whats right or wrong for your set-up. Read these books and then you'll have the right questions to ask.