ok, so my problem is when i turn on the ignition the car starts fine and idles at about 1200 rpm and the oil pressure is fine
but...
after i drive it about 5-10 min. the idle drops to around 500 ,and the oil pressure starts jumping up and down, and i had the car stall on me at a stop sign at one time

and i just had the engine rebuilt not even 2 miles on the rebuilt engine yet...

what could be wrong (i rebuilt it myself and it was my first ever engine job ive doneim 16, so maybe i did some mistakes)(hope not)

does anyone have any clue as to what could be wrong i need to pass emitions after tomorrow so i need to do something real fast.
thnx.

 

My car idles at 500 rpm too some times is yours a manual transmission? i find that if you just tap the throttle it comes back down to about 750 (regular idle for my car) maybe try new plugs and wires (assuming u havent' changed em already) if not just get used 2 it i guess unless someone else has a good idea.

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Nick

 

VACUUM LINES, CHECK THEM, SPEND THE WHOLE DAY FIXING THEM.
You'll find your problem.
IF YOU WERE SMART and just MOVED the throttle body and NOT messed the setting, you're in good shape.
You have a vacuum leak!
You did put in a new oil pump, right?

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Chat Soon,
KED85
Karl
1985 Firebird 2.8 to 3.4 swap project for Smog Happy LA, CA

 

mine is a standard transmission. is it suposed to idle at around 500 rpm....
i'll check the vacum....
and yes i did put a new oil pump in together with a new crank rods cam rollers bearings rings dist. plugs..... i think thats it...
does your oil pressure jump up and down on around 500 rpm

thanks for the help anyway i'll check for the leak anyways .... could it be the o2 sensor or maf sensor ???

 

mine is a standard transmission. is it suposed to idle at around 500 rpm....
i'll check the vacum....
and yes i did put a new oil pump in together with a new crank rods cam rollers bearings rings dist. plugs..... i think thats it...
does your oil pressure jump up and down on around 500 rpm

thanks for the help anyway i'll check for the leak anyways .... could it be the o2 sensor or maf sensor ???

 

500 sounds very low... most engines do about 700-900 RPM's at idle... You can find the Idle you're supposed to have on the metal tag that is right next to the hood latch... it will tell you the idle for your tranny and the advance you should have in timing... I believe idle should be higher in standards and lower in automatics. Specs on my car are 600 auto and 800 stick (LG4) and I have the 5 spd so 800 is what I shoot for (and get)... as for your problem... check for vacuum leaks and replace neccessary tubing, otherwise give the rebuild a little time and see if it fixes itself.

On a side note... Make sure it's all hooked up right!

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1984 Firebird - Daily driver, 305 LG4, T5 - Hurst short shifter, Edelbrock 600 CFM Performer Carb - Edelbrock Pro-Flow air filter, gutted cat, IROC 16x8 Wheels, Goodyear P215/60/R16, AIWA bargain basement (from Sears of course) CD player, Fuzzy dice, Eight-ball shift ****
Check out my ride here $1600!! Bye Bye on board computer!

[This message has been edited by ChillPhatCat (edited September 12, 2001).]

 

um......... which ones are the vacum lines cos if these are the black 2 mm ones found inside and near the intake manifold then theyare fine.... i checked and i cant find on which speed it is suposed to idle on
and the oil pressure is about500 psi when i turn it on and about 300 psi when its warmed up and the idle is about 700-800 rpm so maybe the idle is fine ........
and another question cuz its my first car with manual trans (had an 84 5L mustang for 2 mnth with automatic) do i need to put it in nutral at a stop sign or red light or can i just hold the cluch down and be on 1st gear.....

thanks for the help

 

a few details about the rebuild work ive done
when i rebuilt it i changed the crank,bearings rods, rings, oil pump, cam bearings lifters ,dist. ,clutch, pressure plate , had the heads and clutch flywheel rebuilt. took me almost a year what can i say.....
while i did some testing of the motor i found a new problem, my fan doesn't want to start working so my engine reaches over 105 c after 10 min. after which i turned it off. i checked my relay is fine..
and when i connect a jump wire trough the relay with the relay diconnected the fan works. also the temp. sending unit on the left hesd is ok
i suspect the ECM but i need more input

also when i connect a jump wire through the ALDL link from terminal A to B (diagnostic terminal) instead of giving me the codes the fan turns on !!!!!!

whats up with that, this car is realy screwed up , thats another reason i suspect a problem with the ECM

PLEASE HELP IVE BEEN FIXING THIS CAR FOR ALMOST A YEAR NOW WITHOUT STOP IM GOING CRAZY!!!!! HELP!!!!

 

anyone????

PLEASE

 

TO HELP YA THE MOST, you need the auto store code buster.
THE FANNING OPERATING IS NORMAL during testing.
I got a code buster and it was only $30-ish.
I have to use it again. My idle is shaky & I got a check engine light on again.

Wish I could understand the pressures you're relaying to us. I mean, I'm not that hip in Metric numbers.
IF your check engine light is on, work with the code information offered by the computer. You should be armed with that information anyway. IT ALWAYS PAYS TO HAVE KNOWLEDGE at your finger tips.
We can help, but.....

------------------
Chat Soon,
KED85
Karl
1985 Firebird 2.8 to 3.4 swap project for Smog Happy LA, CA

 

the problem is actually that its not coming on .......
even with the diagnostic terminal grounded
instead of the light the fan turns on
but the fan doest run during normal operation causing overheating