G*d Fu**ing Damn Waterpump
G*d Fu**ing Damn Waterpump
Was trying to replace leaking water pump. Should be a easy job, right? Wrong. Seems one f*cking torx bolt was seized. So I took it to the shop to have them take it out. Seems they couldn't get it loose. Now thet're telling me they are going to have to pull the timing chain cover. How much is that going to cost? Any ideas?
Sorry for the rant.
Sorry for the rant.
thats ok i took my car on vacation Hd no tools the water pump went so i took it to canaidian tire(crappy tire) they quote me 160 over the phone/ get there work is done 260 dollars It probly wont cost too much.. good luck
lol I hear you. I just got done replacing my water pump about 15 minutes ago! It took me about 2.5 hours, but most of that time was spent getting 10 year old gasket material off the mating surface. I thinkI spent 45 minutes getting it off otherwise it wasnt to bad of a job. here is the steps for replacing the water pump:
after draining coolant....
1. remove air intake and
2. remove serp belt.
3. remove AC condensor, or move out of way if it is still charged(mine isnt).
4. remove power sterring pump, leave attached to hoses and let it hang off to the side out of your way.
5. remove hose connected to upper half of waterpump on the pass side.
6. remove water pump, the 3 little bolts are 8mm I believe, you need an oipen end wrench for two of them. Scrape off old gasket material fom mating surface.
7. once the pump if off, jam a screw driver into "blades" on the back of the water pump , to hold the pulley still, so you can unbolt the pulley. Put the pulley on the new pump.
then just reverse everything puting the new pump on. and add coolant.
after draining coolant....
1. remove air intake and
2. remove serp belt.
3. remove AC condensor, or move out of way if it is still charged(mine isnt).
4. remove power sterring pump, leave attached to hoses and let it hang off to the side out of your way.
5. remove hose connected to upper half of waterpump on the pass side.
6. remove water pump, the 3 little bolts are 8mm I believe, you need an oipen end wrench for two of them. Scrape off old gasket material fom mating surface.
7. once the pump if off, jam a screw driver into "blades" on the back of the water pump , to hold the pulley still, so you can unbolt the pulley. Put the pulley on the new pump.
then just reverse everything puting the new pump on. and add coolant.
Here's how ya do this at home.
YOUR WATERPUMP IS SHOT SO WHAT YOU DO IS HACKSAW OFF THE OFFENDING CORNER. THEN YOU KEEP HACKSAWING UNITL YOU CAN GET A FIRM GRIP ON THE THE TORX HEAD WITH A VICE GRIP. YOU REPLACE OFFENDING TORX BOLT WITH A REGULAR METRIC HEAD BOLT.
THE ALUMINUM WATER PUMP IS EXACTLY THAT, ALUMINUM!! YOU CAN SAW THAT IN ABOUT 10-15 MINUTES.
YOU NEED NOT REMOVE THE TIMING CHAIN, UNLESS YOU BREAK THE SEAL! IF YA DO, YOU REMOVE THE TIMING COVER AND THEN BUY A TIMING CHAIN AND REPLACE THE CHAIN.
IF YOU DO NOT FOLLOW THESE SUGGESTIONS, YOU'LL BE REVISITING THIS PROBLEM, AS SOON AS YOU START THE CAR. IT WILL LEAK LIKE A WATERFALL!!!
Take your time to cut the pump, very carefully! You can do this. I told others and they got it off this way, too.
PS, HEY ALLENTOWN, I have a very good friend that lives in Breinigsville. I used to live in Salford, Hilltown and Schwenksville.
How's the change of the leaves going?
------------------
Chat Soon,
KED85
Karl
1985 Firebird 2.8 to 3.4 swap project for Smog Happy LA, CA
[This message has been edited by KED85 (edited September 23, 2001).]
YOUR WATERPUMP IS SHOT SO WHAT YOU DO IS HACKSAW OFF THE OFFENDING CORNER. THEN YOU KEEP HACKSAWING UNITL YOU CAN GET A FIRM GRIP ON THE THE TORX HEAD WITH A VICE GRIP. YOU REPLACE OFFENDING TORX BOLT WITH A REGULAR METRIC HEAD BOLT.
THE ALUMINUM WATER PUMP IS EXACTLY THAT, ALUMINUM!! YOU CAN SAW THAT IN ABOUT 10-15 MINUTES.
YOU NEED NOT REMOVE THE TIMING CHAIN, UNLESS YOU BREAK THE SEAL! IF YA DO, YOU REMOVE THE TIMING COVER AND THEN BUY A TIMING CHAIN AND REPLACE THE CHAIN.
IF YOU DO NOT FOLLOW THESE SUGGESTIONS, YOU'LL BE REVISITING THIS PROBLEM, AS SOON AS YOU START THE CAR. IT WILL LEAK LIKE A WATERFALL!!!
Take your time to cut the pump, very carefully! You can do this. I told others and they got it off this way, too.
PS, HEY ALLENTOWN, I have a very good friend that lives in Breinigsville. I used to live in Salford, Hilltown and Schwenksville.
How's the change of the leaves going?
------------------
Chat Soon,
KED85
Karl
1985 Firebird 2.8 to 3.4 swap project for Smog Happy LA, CA
[This message has been edited by KED85 (edited September 23, 2001).]
2011 Norwood Gathering
ThirdGen Firebird Rep
ThirdGen Firebird Rep
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 3,435
Likes: 4
From: Sarasota FL
Car: 99 WS6 / 00 SS / 11 CTS-V / 13 300
Engine: LS1 / LS1 / LSA / 5.7 Hemi
Transmission: 4L60E / T-56 / 6L80E / W5A80
Axle/Gears: 3.23 / 3.42 Auburn / 3.23 / 2.62
Its funny you all mention this...mine is sitting outside right now with a 1/2 done water pump replacement. I've spent an hour and a half on it now, and have the old pump off and everything scraped down. I didn't hack the pump off like KED85 suggested, but it may have been easier than taking the damn A/C compressor and everything else off to get at all the damn bolts 
------------------
Jason E
'89 Camaro RS
-Medium Grey Metallic
-2.8, A4, T-tops, 94k miles
-Hypertech chip, Accel wires/coil/K&Ns
-Alpine 60x4 and Bostons
'97 Z28
-30th Anniversary package (white with orange stripes)
-LT1, M6, t-tops, 45k miles
-Eclipse CD and 10" Aluminum sub in JL Audio Stealth box, Boston RM speakers, Xtant 403a amp
Speed Kills...Wanna live forever? Drive a Ford.
Long Live #3...

------------------
Jason E
'89 Camaro RS
-Medium Grey Metallic
-2.8, A4, T-tops, 94k miles
-Hypertech chip, Accel wires/coil/K&Ns
-Alpine 60x4 and Bostons
'97 Z28
-30th Anniversary package (white with orange stripes)
-LT1, M6, t-tops, 45k miles
-Eclipse CD and 10" Aluminum sub in JL Audio Stealth box, Boston RM speakers, Xtant 403a amp
Speed Kills...Wanna live forever? Drive a Ford.
Long Live #3...
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
From: Htown, TX
Car: 1990 Firebird
Engine: 3.1....4159265
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: axle rose and metal gear solid
Re: G*d Fu**ing Damn Waterpump
i know this is late but for people from the future you could...
I got a Dremel cut off disk and made the round bolt heads into a squarish shape. Then, I got a 9.99 to 19.99 gator grip socket and then ratcheted it off. BOY AM I GLAD THAT WORKED FOR ME.
PRAISE THE LORD!!!!!!!!
H-TOWN
I got a Dremel cut off disk and made the round bolt heads into a squarish shape. Then, I got a 9.99 to 19.99 gator grip socket and then ratcheted it off. BOY AM I GLAD THAT WORKED FOR ME.
PRAISE THE LORD!!!!!!!!
H-TOWN
Last edited by dontellmymom; Jan 8, 2010 at 11:47 PM. Reason: to give thanks and to fix
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
From: Cookeville, TN
Car: 1983 Firebird, 1989 Firebird
Engine: 2.8L V-6 2bbl, 305 V-8 4bbl
Transmission: 200C Metric, 700R-4
Axle/Gears: Stock
Re: G*d Fu**ing Damn Waterpump
For those that have a carbed V-6 here is what I had to do.
1. Take off belts for P/S, Alt., and A.I.R. pump if you have one.
2. Remove fan, water pump pulley.
3. Drain coolant from Radiator.
4. Remove bolts from Water pump housing 10mm, 13mm, 15mm.
5. Break at least one of the lower bolts off and have to drill and retap the holes for a replacement.
6. Remove water pump, and all of the old gasket material make sure it is clean.
7. Replace new Gasket ensure you put RTV (blue) on both the pump and the surface on the engine. Take the blue sealant and go around each bolt hole on the new pump and put the gasket on it making sure it is aligned then set it aside and let it dry a bit. Do that BEFORE you put the RTV on the engine surface. After it has set a bit then put RTV on the engine surface again go around the bolt holes, but don't use a ton of it on there or you make a big mess (learned that already).
8. Put on the pump, and ensure you put RTV on each bolt before you put it in place and tighten it.
9. Let dry 24 hrs to make sure the sealant has cured good.
10. reassemble fan, pulleys, and belts.
11. Refill the radiator with the proper mixture and amount of coolant.
This is the way I have done it and my car has no leaks or anything at all. and it runs fine.
1. Take off belts for P/S, Alt., and A.I.R. pump if you have one.
2. Remove fan, water pump pulley.
3. Drain coolant from Radiator.
4. Remove bolts from Water pump housing 10mm, 13mm, 15mm.
5. Break at least one of the lower bolts off and have to drill and retap the holes for a replacement.
6. Remove water pump, and all of the old gasket material make sure it is clean.
7. Replace new Gasket ensure you put RTV (blue) on both the pump and the surface on the engine. Take the blue sealant and go around each bolt hole on the new pump and put the gasket on it making sure it is aligned then set it aside and let it dry a bit. Do that BEFORE you put the RTV on the engine surface. After it has set a bit then put RTV on the engine surface again go around the bolt holes, but don't use a ton of it on there or you make a big mess (learned that already).
8. Put on the pump, and ensure you put RTV on each bolt before you put it in place and tighten it.
9. Let dry 24 hrs to make sure the sealant has cured good.
10. reassemble fan, pulleys, and belts.
11. Refill the radiator with the proper mixture and amount of coolant.
This is the way I have done it and my car has no leaks or anything at all. and it runs fine.
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