Hey guys! Was wondering if I could get a little guidance on what needs to be done to clear Code 22. I know it is in relation to TPS and currently the car will drive (finally) with sometimes a slight hesitation. How do I go about fixing this?

Thanks!

 

Make sure the TPS is firmly fixed in place and the electrical connections are good. If it all looks good then you'll need to test the TPS and maybe replace it. To test you'll need a digital volt meter and a 5v power supply. I use a computer USB port. Plus you'll need to know which terminals to check.

 

Just checked and it is now firmly in place. Electrical connections are all good too. I cleared the check engine light again and on start up, after 4 seconds the light comes on and the RPM's shoot up to say 600. Otherwise it starts first at 600 and drops till the light comes up. Throttle response is perfect now though. Thoughts?

 

It's slotted to allow some adjustment, play with it a bit and see if you can get it to make nice, if not, you probably need a new one.
If you're an unlucky SOB like me, its JB welded to your TB stuck in one spot and slightly off because not only did the torx screw heads snap off for no apparent reason, the screw extractors then snapped off inside the torx screws.
I would get a new TB if I wasn't planning to swap to aluminum heads anyways, it works well enough for now, though I suspect its why my car idles so low, but I kind of like the idle anyways, lol.

 

Are you still getting the code 22? If so then it may still be a TPS issue but also other things that are affecting the idle. Typically a vacuum lead (get a vacuum gauge if you can it's a great tool) or the IAC is dirty or defective. Make sure the TPS is hooked onto the blade at the end of the throttle shaft correctly. You may need to bench test the TPS for correct voltage at all positions. It may be worn out at the idle position and OK at other positions.

 

Well I know I put a new one in because I was having prior problems. Though with the new one it ran like garbage so I put in one of the old ones and it runs great. Just has that initial problem on start up. I am ordering new gaskets for the plenum and was going to put a new throttle body on, but was thinking of porting it. I wanted to run the dual snorkel for cold air intakes and ditch the fog lights to allow max cold air flow. But none of that will happen till code 22 gets fixed!

 

Though if it's suppose to be screwed down in place, then how can it have a slight amount of play? I'll adjust it a little tomorrow that's for sure! Appreciate the help guys!

 

The TPS has slots instead of holes for the screws.

 

The 91 should have holes. It's not adjustable. Does the TPS have holes or slots? Maybe some mismatch?

 

Yeah this one has 2 holes that get screwed onto the throttle body. Only one way it will fit. Thing is the car is running fine, I just want to find a way to clear it. I will check it with a tester and if it's below .25 volts then it's garbage correct? What wires do I need to have connected to test it?

 

Not sure I understand. What do you want to clear? As for checking the TPS it's been years since I tested mine so I don't remember the wires to probe. I did mine off the car. I think I googled it to get the wiring diagram. Maybe in the manual.

 

Sorry I meant I want to get this check engine light cleared. I am going to take a video of the start up procedure and post it because something else just became a problem, but it won't show up through the check engine light. Perhaps someone with a little more knowledge than myself about these cars will know it!

 

So I tried 3 different TPS and all gave code 22. One doesn't respond when you push on the peddle. The other 2 respond. Still getting same original problem with the 2 that somewhat work as well. Thoughts?

 

It would seem strange that so many TPS sensors don't work. But is that why you have so many? On mine the TPS has to be offered up to the blade slightly turned then lined up with a slight twist to get the bolts lined up. This means the sensor is not sitting all the way down on it's lowest stop which would cause the 22. Has the throttle been messed with in any way? Look at how the blade on the throttle shaft turns the TPS and make sure it engages just the right way. The book shows 3 wires. Grey, Dark Blue and Black. Looks like the grey is the 5 volt reference and the black is ground and the dark blue is the signal back to the ecm. Try measuring the voltage at the Blue wire across the range of movement of the TPS. I don't remember the high/low values but the voltage should change smoothly as the TPS is turned.

 

You do have a good point. I didn't even realize it had to be set up exactly. I will mess with that tomorrow. I was getting very frustrated and gave up. Going to get back at it tomorrow! New day

 

check for 5 volts on the tps i belive its the middle wire if u have the stright 3 pin connector

should be
#1 0-5v signal back to ecm
#2 5 volt reference wire
#3 sensor ground

ot it could be
#1 5 volt ref
#2 0-5v signal back to ecm
#3 sensor ground

just get a volt meter and unplug the connector and probe each wire till u find the 5 volt one voltage should range from 4.50-5v on this wire.if u dont have within the specified voltage on the ref wire the tps will never read right

the signal wire back to the ecm should vary voltage as the throttle opens
i belive the acceptable range is about 0-.63v with throttle closed and 4.40-5v wide open.

also check the voltage as u slowly open the throttle from idle to wot throttle it should have a nice steady climb with throttle opening not jump up in huge steps

 

He's got the round connector...
Gray wire is +5V reference from the ECM
Blue wire is signal to ECM
Black wire is a shared ground with the IAT

TPS should have a throttle-closed voltage of no less than .29V and no more than .98.

Disconnect the MAP sensor first to see if the code 22 goes away (with the TPS connected, of course).

Check for 5V at the gray wire first and also at the MAP sensor (same 5V reference source, apparently) and then for a short to ground (probably with the ECM disconnected so as to avoid frying it). And then test the blue wire at the ECM connector for being open or shorted to ground.

--As taken from the 1992 FSM... Not much you can do without a scan tool, supposedly. I gave you the basics of what can be done without checking the signals through the ECM.

 

hey mav are the colors on the wires the same for the stright tps ?
its the last thing i have to wire on my iroc to get it running.

lol ive been putting it off so i didnt wire my 5v ref and signal wire backwards to my megasquirt ecm

 

when trying all these different tps sensors did you reset the ecm to clear the code before putting a different one on?

otherwise your still going to have the code showing up

 

Same colors, just different connector...

 

thnx

 

Just as a side note, project, could you PM me with how you set up your MS? As in hardware configuration? I'm planning on using external MAP input (I have 3 of the things, might as well use them) as well as a few other sensors not commonly seen in usual builds (knock sense)... Still debating on the MAF, however.

 

use the onboard map sensor
what ms unit do u have ms1 and board version i.e v2.2 or 3.0 or is it an ms2 v2.2 or 3,0

kncoksense is easy to hookup u just have to pick an input port and set it up in megatune or tunerstudio

stick with the map the maf will just make things harder for u

the hardest mod will be for the hei distributor and that only requires u to solder in 2 resitors and one jumper wire

 

Thanks for the info! I disconnected the MAP sensor, still got code 22. Along with the one with the MAP sensor. What I was going to do was order a new TPS that has slots to be adjusted and see where that takes me. Going out to buy a new voltmeter because I just found out it was ruined in the flood we had.

Took the day off from messing with the engine after trying the MAP sensor. I started sanding because it needs new paint too. Going to start with her Monday with a new TPS sensor and see if that makes a difference. Perhaps a new one I bought a while ago was faulty! Wouldn't be the first time!

 

There is no adjustable TPS for the 3.1... I had to make mine adjustable to work with the older 302 ECM (2.8 system). If you look close at the sensor, you will see some marks that look like kidney beans around the holes... Get a rotary tool and make slots following the marks if you want, but you need to test the circuits as described above FIRST as there is another problem in the system. And DO NOT forget to reset the ECM before attempting another repair as that (posted code) is the only way you have to find out if what you did worked or not.

project, I'll get back to you with the specifics, but I need the MSII, V3.0 to be as accurate as possible. I'd rather not blow my engine with about 11.5:1 CR (as according to 60*V6 CR calc, others are close to the same). I can't use MegaTune because my one computer I have at the moment that will interface with the MSII won't work with it (some issue with the serial port and MT), but I have TunerStudio running. Oh, and can't use a distributor with a 3100 top end . Don't want to run a vac hose into the case I'll be using for the MSII, which is an old 302 ECM case (using a 165 interface board and parts) as I'm trying to stay as stock appearing as possible.

 

I know I have been resetting it. Disconnecting the battery for a solid 10 minutes. I just hope there isn't something wrong with the wiring, though I am sure there is by now...