I have a 91 RS 3.1 and I am stalling when i come to a stop and when i shift from Rev to Drive, but now i turn a corner with the throtle low (low rpm's) and she stalled on me . It seems like its getting worse and I dont even know where to begin I love this car I just wish I could enjoy her more instead of wondering when she'll leave me stranded. Can anyone guide me in the right direction?

 

Check all of the standards first, spark plugs and wires, cap, rotor. Check for codes. has your SES Light been coming on?

When you start the car do you have to hold the gas pedel down?

 

no, but it idles really rough and on occasions i have to keep the gas down to keep it from stalling. But as soon as I put it in gear she stalls!!?

 

I think my check ENG light is burned out it has never come on at all since I bouth the car which was a week ago

 

Also the dealer told me all the plugs were replaced along with the distributer and new fuel filter.

 

Sort of sounds like what was happening to mine.Does your spark plug wires have metal type boot covers next to the engine?If they do,that is what was causing all my problems,they were actualy arking off of one another causing it stall and sputter.Try and take a look and tell us what you see.

Brent

 

once upon a time, i was having troubles like you. my car would die and my engine light would not come on. ever. finally i realised it was burnt out. you say you think your light might be burnt out. when you turn the key to on, NOT starting it, just on, the engine light should come on. if it doesn't, go to your nearest parts store and get a bulb for it. if the light does come on, have you tried checking to see if there are any trouble codes in your computer?

 

I have had sim. problems, follow the link if you like to see how I've got it.
https://www.thirdgen.org/messgboard/...ML/002044.html

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www.marion-becker-nidda.de
91 Firebird 3.1
Modsynomax ultra flow stainless steel -americanracing rims (ar26) rear 15x8 255/60
front 15x7 235/60
www.members.aol.com/tramphorst/pontiacpics

 

THank all of you who helped and I will let you all know what I came up with Just in case someone else has the same problem. to b cont...

 

WELL I FINNALY GOT THAT EGR VALVE REPLACED AND IT RUNS ALOT SMOOTHER. IT WAS LEAKING EXHAUST FROM THE VALVE DUE TO A COUPLE OF BROKEN BOLTS INSIDE THE ADAPTER. ANY WAYS SHE IS STILL IDLEING ROUGH AND STILL STALLS, BUT NOT AS MUCH. MY CHECK ENG LIGHT GIVES ME A CODE OF 43 WITCH IS THE SPARK TIMING SOMETHING RATHER. HAS ANYONE HAD ANY SIMILAR PROBLEM? PLEASE HELP I'M TRYING TO ENJOY MY RIDE AND I'M SO CLOSE,THANKS

 

Basically check your timing. To get the real reading you have to have the brown plug on the pasenger side fender unpluged then run the car. With this unplugged IT WILL set off the code. I have my timing set at right about 14-16 BTC. Runs great. After you find out what the timing is, if its not between 11-17 BTC get it there. After you do PLUG THAT BROWN CONNECTOR back in. Reset the codes and see how she runs. Should be no troubles. As a piece of advise unless the saleman was a best friend of yours DO NOT TAKE ANYTHING HE SAID AS TRUE. CHECK IT FOR YOURSELF. Used car salesmen are bad for lying about everything. I was told my car had a new brake job, new struts and shocks, new hood struts and good tires. Guess what the tires sucked ALL BFG's had no traction in anything other than the sunny beach roads, I had to replece the hood struts 3 weeks later, did a brake job 4 weeks later and the Struts and shocks were so bad it was rediculous. The bad thing was I did not notice the bad shocks/struts thanks to our cars pretty stiff springs, until much later cause the roads there were pretty flat and even. When I did replace them the shaft could not stay up even being held at an angle.

 

What about your Idle Air Control motor? My camaor would stal because of mine being shot.My car would barely stay started,Idle was extremly rough,everytime I put it in gear it would die and when at a stop or turning without having the gas pedal pressed it would die.

 

Good point. I keep forgetting that. I had troubles with mine but they went away after a nice long highway run.

 

Camaro_hunter_d,

yeah if it is a minor blockage guning the engine or a nice long high speed run will blow out the blockage.

 

yea sorry it took so long to reply but yes the three right spark plugs had wetal protectors on them. I took them off and nothing changed but it did seem like it could of been the problem. thanks

 

Hey Camaro Hunter thanks for the reply, I'm not sure how to do what your talking about I mean I am not totally mechanically ignorant I just thought the book (hanes) said not to mess with the timing. But if it can be done could you hook me up with the know how?

 

Do you mean the idle air control valve? The one that looks like a needle valve with a spring around it? If so I was thinking it might be it, I was just wondering why the ECM spit out a code 43?(electronic spark control)

 

Hey, I do appreciate all the advice, and I will try everything that you all think might be the problem and I will let you know how it worked out.

 

I think I'm just going to have to get a new distibuter and spark plug wires.

 

If your car is not a daily driver take you ignition module down to have it checked.

 

yeap, I wish I could park her for a little bit to get it all worked out. But she is my daily ride. But I may be able to do it on the weekend.

 

Oh and I did take her out for a high speed run and enjoyed every minute of it, but unfortunately she's still acting funny so I will keep trying all your sugestions, I fiqure one of these solutions should be it and it'll save me the money taking her to the shop. But I will If I have to.

 

Check the IAC, that why it stalls. Has no air control when the butterfly is closed.

 

Is there any specific way to check the IAC?
I adjusted it the way the book said to but when I did that she ran away from me, it was like i had cruise control on, the rpms stayed high even when my foot was off the gas peddal.

 

to check the timing get a light. Theres a single brown wire that pops out of the plastic retaining loom on the right fender(Facing forward) It has a push turn type conector. Disconnect it and check your timing. It should be right around 12 degrees BTC.
How to check the IAC. Its the part on the right side of the throttle body. It has 2 allen screws holding it on/in. Take off the connecting plug and the screws and remove the IAC and push(not hard just steady, you should be able to hear the motor inside whine a little)the "Bullet nose" straight back untill the spring is depressed. Also get a can of carb/parts cleaner and spray the hell outta the opening from the outside into the "bullet hole", if you have a very small wire stick brush(like the kind used to clean gun barrels) use it. Reinstall. The car should start up and should rev like hell but should quickly come down. Bounce rev it a few times to see if the idle smooths out easily and timely. Next step drive it around, look for the symptoms. If they go away your good. If they persist new IAC.

Hope that helps.

 

I will try this as soon as possible and will let know what the outcome is. One more question would it be allright to pick one up from the junker or should I just go new?

 

OH dont take the IAC valve out when the motor is running.I took mine out even though it was shoot,the pintel or what ever its called.When I did this It compenstated for the extra air,and shot that pintel out and I havent seen it since.

 

Point noted, thanks for the heads up!

 

all I can say is DOH LOL.