You can get much cheeper ones at napa, but heres what they look like. Sorry im in a rush this morning...

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...08_388213_4166_

 

PM me your address so I can get a quick quote on shipping for you...

 

Rob, and greencamaro, did you guys work something out with the injectors? I will sell mine if you didn't rob as I Just have to get larger ones. I want to make more power and I guess 275hp or so is just the limit on those. Although I never thought my car would ever make power like that.

Rob if you got some for him, sell away

 

Na he never answered me. How much you'll letem go for

 

I did answer you, I sent you my paypal address days ago and didn't hear anything. I got 16 of these 28-lb injectors left, all just sitting here because nobody in the Grand National world has a need for them, only the SBC guys have a need for them. Six of them were boxed up the moment I sent you the first PM. If it's easier to get them from Mark though because he is upgrading then just go with those, either way whatever works for you. Good luck w/your build...

- Rob

 

Rob,go ahead and sell those inject. You got so many of them left. Its not gonna hurt for me to have a spare set anyways.

 

turbo v6, can be as expensive as an ls1 swap, so much more rewarding

 

turbo v6 is so much cheaper then an ls1 swap,specially when starting with a v6 car

 

not to me, atleast not how i saw it, when ya start with say a 305 tpi car and go ls1 you need to work out the fuel pump and the ecm and wiring, when you start v6 build a hybrid and turbo it you do all that but you need to know what parts of what engines you need and what needs wired and how to tune it (most of you guys tune yourselves anyway) and megasquirt or any tuning software costs money too, and little things cost money when you do that, the rebuilding mostly and to be honest i'd absolutely love to do it but it scares me lol oh well someday thats why i said it could be as expensive as ls1 swapping just to be certain i know theres more to ls1 swapping then that but its just how it looks at first glance

 

if u start with a v6 car u dont have to do a hybrid, iron headed cars will run just as fast as hybrid turbo cars

 

i was planning to build a non turbo hybrid for 24 hours of lemons are they any more reliable?

 

dbl post

 

it would be ineligible to compete in lemons as far as i know.

and i highly doubt it would last a solid 24 hours of racing.

it could be done but would require a very good cooling system,and modifications would need to be made to the oil pump and oiling system
iconel ex valves and a host of other upgrades to survive that kind of abuse

which is far beyond what lemons will allow

if ur going to do a v6 car for lemons hehe is how i would do it

3.4 shortblock with 3.4 dohc pistons for 10.2-1 cr
260-268 grind cam
5 speed with a spec stage 1 or 2 clutch
minimum 3:73 rear gears but i would prefer 4:10's
ported heads and intake

iroc rear springs
iroc hollow sway bars front and rear ( 1le)
wondbar
16 inch iroc rims with 245/50/16 upfront
16 irocs with 255(45/50)/16 out rear
box the rear lca and panhard bar
gut everything possible from the car

and yes 245 tires will fit the front i have pics to prove it

of course u could always do a set of drop springs

i would also shim the oil pump bypass valve with 2-3 an washers for higher oil presure ,and run either 20-50w oil or straight 40 wieght

 

My 2 cents: A turbo build can be very resonable in price if you can weld up the piping and tune it yourself. Not that hard really. The reason I say its so easy is when adding the turbo its as easy as a bolt on mod and the fact that there is alot of knowldege on this forum on how to complete the mod. Its also more rewarding in my mind to take a slow turd V6 and make it able to run with 300Hp cars on a tight budget. Very fun and very rewarding.

I thought of the Ls1 swap myself too but the amount of parts and the overall swap can just rake up some major dough. Im confident to say it but with my build I can keep up with a ls1 anyways. It may only be as fast as a bone stock one but crap man, its a V6 and it has alot more potential still. The one thing is a ls1(or any V8 in that matter) can do is the pure V8 sound which no V6 can imatate. But when my car goes woooshh that makes up for the sound My car just sounds like a V8 that got kicked in the ????? But I love it.

Everyone has a plan or dream when they start to think of what there car is capible of, some ppl go straight for the V8 swap. Me on the other hand, I thought why do that when I have a perfect low mile V6 sitting in a car. This was exsspecially true once I saw Project89s Turbo V6 videos at the track, and that it could be done for a resonable price.

Ive heard it over and over, that it is much easier to swap in a V8 in a car that began with a V8 in it. "If you wanted a V8 car then start with a V8 car as its just simpler that way"

@greencamaro...update?? Made any progress?

 

K haven't been on here a while but I ran into a roadblock. While putting a headbolt on it broke inside the head itself. I heard using easy out might Do the job but idk. What topic doo. I miss my Camaro

 

u reused the original head bolts didnt u?

anyways take a picture of the broken bolt in the block so i can see how bad it is, and help u get it out of there without messing up the block

 

Thats no good.

 

Did this guy fall off the forum or something. I was hoping to see another turboed V6 on here.

 

unfortunatly this happens alot, somomne will start a turbo or hybrid build and then abandon the project cause its more work then they thought

 

K Sorry guys. Havent been able to work on car much but believe me im 11000% still dedicate.

Took this pic today. Broken head bolt: /

 

yeah looks like ya reused the old ones, you should be able to get em cheap at atuozone bro might take 3-4 days to get em though depending on store size

 

Yea. Getting them won't be a problem. Only Prob is removing that one. Heard I shud try easy out?

 

Dam n man thats no good. You were just torqing them down and it broke off?? A easyout may work but heres what I think. It looks like it is sticking out of the block a bit so: Cover those cylinders so nothing goes in them, get a die grinder or something that can basicallly grind a notch in that bolt so that you could use a big flat headed screwdriver to pull it out. Then heat it up a little with a blow tourch, put a cresent wrench on the shaft of the large flat head screw driver and hope it comes back out.

Thats a idea as I did that on 2 of my broken bolts that were busted into the block for the exhaust manifolds. It was a PITA but worked.

They sell new felpro head bolts at autozone for IIRC $27 and they are usually in stock.

Just curious but how much did you tq those bolts down? Please tell me you used a tq wrench and that you made the first pass at 40ft/lbs then went back arround with another 1/4 turn? From the center bolts out. Its early in the morning(in tired as crap) so my Ft/lbs of tq may be off.

 

Try to get the top of the bolt stud as flat as you can without damaging the deck of the block, take a punch and punch a good starting point right in the center of the broken bolt stud. Drill, then extract. Just be sure to cover the entire engine, use a drop cloth if you have nothing else, and try to cover most of the nearest cylinder that your working by. This is why it's important that the threads are cleaned/chased before torquing the head bolts down...

 

 

Since there TTY ones I think its just better to buy new ones, there cheep and any AZ or place like that will have them.

 

TTY bolts are bad enough on an OE engine.
I figured we would at least want head studs, if they make them for these engines (I cant remember if they do).

 

They do make head studs. ARP IIRC makes them for about 80 bucks a set compared to the 25 dollar felpro head bolt kits.

 

ALRIGHT GUYS! Its been a while but this is where i am at, and i am waiting for some more cash flow to buy more bolt extractors,

i was able to get into part of the headbolt.

this is how much the headbolt is in actuall size :

======
and i got to about === in

but my problem seems to be that the bolt extractor gets dull and wont go in more so im going to buy new ones and go at it again, i still got all the parts and everything, just the other day i took the cover off the engine and cleaned it up a bit more, i will post pics asap so you guys can see.

the bolt is litteraly only like 2 cm in there and im about 1cm into it, but i need to go in more to extract it. any ideas?

 

use a larger drill bit, use dremil to slot the hole to use a large screw driver, heat then candle wax, PB blast..........

 

i would drill the entire thing out and put an insert in it , but to do this u have to drill it dead straight , and then retap the hole dead straight

 

Alright guys so I FINALLY took out the head bolt, easier then I thought and came out clean. Now I need help peicing everything back together. I got the headbolts ordered, what do I start putting back together? Exaust correct?