The engine is 2,8 MPFI with 5-speed manual tranny
So, any one changed the seal? and if so, how long it took?
what tools were needed? and perhaps some hints and tips on how to get it done the easyest way.
Biggest problem to me is probably i only have a jack and the most basic tools.

ofcourse there be million+1 other problems with the car (for example rear right brake not giving enough force on dynamometer to allow it pass the inspection, had huge luck last time in inspecition as there was winter so the inspector did not notice the leak but failed because of the brake)

Also been thinking changing 5.0v8 from chevy van but there is bit grey area on if the 5-speed tranny will fit straight to the engine.

Waiting for answers and thankyou already

 

One answer... The trans will not bolt up to a V8. Reason being is our V6s have a different bely housing an a few other details.

 

I did it with some drive up ramps and a 2 1/2 ton jack for extra lift on the car. Then I removed all the things connected to the transmission, removed the dizzy cap, and then started on the transmission bell housing bolts. I used these neat little wrench / socket things to remove the cooler lines. Draining the transmission is helpful.

Once you get it all off, pull the transmission away and try to grab some help.

Make sure you do the cam cover gasket while your back there (can buy on ebay or rockauto). Also buy some thread locker for the flywheel bolts. Then reassemble.

It wasn't hard at all...just annoying...I don't have any oil leaks anymore thankfully...I had a terrible vibration too...when I put it back together I don't know exactly what cured it but I used thread locker and bought a new torque arm bushing and it's fixed.

 

Hardest part about the repair is getting the trans to line up with the clutch while holding it up while under the car. Took me 9 hours to get my T5 in the first time. Yes, with a floor jack.

Do both the trans input shaft seal (it's like $3 or so) and the RMS while you're under there. If either leak, you'll probably want a new clutch as well, and possibly consider having the flywheel resurfaced. Use locktite on the flywheel bolts (to the crank) or you'll probably end up going under there to correct a nice clunking noise/vibration because the bolts came loose and the flywheel is moving around.

Don't bother with getting a gasket for the cam cover. RTV is cheaper and more useful in other places. You will need it if you're going to do the input shaft seal on the trans anyways. Better yet, while the trans is out, put a new driveshaft seal in the rear and new RTV on the entire housing to make sure there are no leaks. You're going to want the trans empty upon reinstall anyways or you're going to have a big mess on your hands. Not to mention the trans weighs a few less pounds.

A trick to the torque arm... If you have 4 jack stands, put the second pair of stands just ahead of the rear lower control arms on the frame rails. Let the axle drop and pull out the rear springs. That way, you won't be fighting the rear springs to get the torque arm lined up.

No trans cooler on a 5-speed . And the V6 uses a different input shaft and gear set. However, with the right bellhousing, you can use a 4.3 clutch (out of an Astro, IIRC) with the V6 trans for a V8, IIRC. Depending on the year, you may not want your trans behind the V8 anyways, since most T5 trannies before 87 (IIRC) have a torque limit of about 275, IIRC (again). I know I'm going to have to be careful with mine that I bought out of an 85 with about 240 torque.

 

You can use your existing transmission if you get a V8 bellhousing and a 14 spline 10.4 inch clutch.

 

Thankyou all guys for the Information, after reading that all it really starts to look like i just take the car to the shop to do the job unless i find a garage with lift and tranny lift, other major problem is that i live in finland so parts are always needed to be ordered from over the seas. If any of you guys remember the parts numbers that would do the trick
oddly it seems no oil has gone to clutch as never had any clutch slip at all.
shall see shall see... need to use the U.S Parts store to order the stuff
if i get to doing it ill take some pics and stuff for future reference

(though im starting seriously tinkering with idea placing the 2,8 to a old 4th gen escort yup wanting to do a RWD conversion to get a toy out of it and getting salvage 5,7tpi iroc to get new engine to my camaro...)


Having really serious hate love relationship with that engine currently... but it did handle the -35celcius cold starts with ethanol and brake cleaning spray O.o so it really works supricingly well for an opel engine (thats what rumors i have heard)

 

don't need a lift, a T5 isn't that heavy, just bench press it into place. Had no trouble doing it myself with the car on stands.

now an auto trans, get a lift, bought killed myself doing my TH350 alone. ending up using ratchet straps to jack it up from the inside.

 

2.8 and 3.1 engines were made in North America, Mexico, I believe, from my Owner's Manual.
Log onto either RockAuto.com or eBay, should find parts at either for reasonable prices (except RockAuto is ridiculous with shipping... what they save you on the parts they hit you for there!).

 

I think shipping depends on if they have stores in your state or not, been cheap for me on orders.