New take on old topic, 2.8L stalling...
New take on old topic, 2.8L stalling...
Alright, I know this has been approached a million times so far, but maybe with some details someone migh have a new perspective on the issue. My son's '89 Camaro RS has the 2.8L V6/5 speed drivetrain in it with approximately 189000 miles on it. When started and warmed up, it runs very, VERY rough, after being driven a short distance it will stall at every stop. Here's the list of problems we're already remedied: repaired several broken studs causing exhaust leaks in both manifolds, cleaned IAC valve, replaced O2 sensor after getting error code, replaced mass air sensor after getting error code, replaced broken oil pressure sensor, replaced spark plugs/distribuor cap & rotor, oil change (you know...basic tune up stuff)...and still, it runs like warmed over dog crap. Oh, if this makes any difference, the tach if reading very erradically, showing 6000 RPM at idle and maxing out as soon as the gas pedal is touched.
I've considered trying to adjust the timing, but seeing that it's controled electronically, would manually changing it do anything? One other thing...the former owner replaced the timing chain and gears...for what it's worth this guy was a complete hack and a half, but I'm hoping against hope that his "repairs" didn't cause the problems we're experiencing. Any insight anybody can give will be greatly appreciated!
One more thing...the rear trans mount is wasted, it's one of the hydraulic filled POS's...I have a new urethane mount, but need a normal crossmember to replace the one with the huge round hole in it...anyone in the Camden County NJ area have one for sale cheap?
I've considered trying to adjust the timing, but seeing that it's controled electronically, would manually changing it do anything? One other thing...the former owner replaced the timing chain and gears...for what it's worth this guy was a complete hack and a half, but I'm hoping against hope that his "repairs" didn't cause the problems we're experiencing. Any insight anybody can give will be greatly appreciated!
One more thing...the rear trans mount is wasted, it's one of the hydraulic filled POS's...I have a new urethane mount, but need a normal crossmember to replace the one with the huge round hole in it...anyone in the Camden County NJ area have one for sale cheap?
Re: New take on old topic, 2.8L stalling...
Oh, one more thing...I'm sure you're all gonna suggest checking the vacuum lines. Already did, all hoses appear new, with the exception of one that I replaced after it crumbled in my hands. If there *is* a leak at this point, it's hiding very well!
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Car: 2003 Hyundai Tiburon GT
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Re: New take on old topic, 2.8L stalling...
1. If the guy who replaced the timing chain was a hack, get in there and check it. It's the only way to be sure that it isn't the cause of at least SOME of the issue.
2. If the vacuum lines leave black on your hands when you touch them, they need to be replaced. Period. They've deteriorated and have micro-cracks.
3. Have you replaced the intake gaskets, valve cover gaskets, fuel injector o-rings, or PCV valve yet? The valve covers especially can be a large source of vacuum leaks.
4. Check the intake bellows for damage around the breather pipe, the ends of the idle air bypass pipe for damage (the rubber boots on the intake and throttle body nipples), the seating of the PCV valve (should NOT be loose!) and the hose connection between it and the idle air pipe, and for a sticking EGR valve. Also pull the vac line off of the fuel pressure regulator and make sure it's not leaking gas.
2. If the vacuum lines leave black on your hands when you touch them, they need to be replaced. Period. They've deteriorated and have micro-cracks.
3. Have you replaced the intake gaskets, valve cover gaskets, fuel injector o-rings, or PCV valve yet? The valve covers especially can be a large source of vacuum leaks.
4. Check the intake bellows for damage around the breather pipe, the ends of the idle air bypass pipe for damage (the rubber boots on the intake and throttle body nipples), the seating of the PCV valve (should NOT be loose!) and the hose connection between it and the idle air pipe, and for a sticking EGR valve. Also pull the vac line off of the fuel pressure regulator and make sure it's not leaking gas.
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