I have a 92 Firebird with a 3.1 will start and idle for about 5 seconds then dies, when it does idle longer it will die when I press the gas. I have replaced the iac, throttle position sensor, map sensor, fuel filter, plugs and wires, distributor cap, rotor, and rebuilt the throttle body. I can't think of anything Else to do. any suggestions? I have tried everything and I just don't get it. it is the only car I have and need to fix it asap.

 

would the crank sensor have anything to do with this problem

 

does it sputter/ skip while its idling for that short time?

 

yes does both right before it dies

 

I am now cleaning the egr

 

yes does both right before it dies

 

What tests have you done to confirm correct fuel pressure, and to confirm that the fuel pressure regulator is operating properly?

 

There is no crank sensor on gen 1 iron head V6's. You have a dizzy, a ignition control module, Knock sensor, coil, wires, plugs, and a ecm for timing...that is it.

Is it a automatic trans? Have you done an good idle relearn on the car? Start it up and get it to temp. Then reset the ecm(just undo the ground wire for 1 minuet) Then put it back on, start the car up and let it run for 5 minuets at idle with absolutely nothing on in the car(i.e. lights, ac, stuff like that) Then after it idled for 5 minutets drive it for 15 minuets around town where you stop and go a lot. This is important for a car such as yours when you tear into to and replace parts. Exspecially the IAC.

I doubt its something related to not doing a idle relearn if you haven't done so, but do that if you can. Put a vacuum guage on the car and see what its pulling in inches of hg. Then if you can put a fuel pressure guage on the fuel rail and see what sort of fuel pressure you have there.

 

the car won't stay running. had a pressure gage to test the fuel pressure.

 

Would timing be off for any reason. Have you checked?

 

I tried a lot of different timing settings. On the extreme lean or high fuel, the car ran, even though it was rough. If you think it is a timing problem, try setting the distributor between the 2 extreme with it more toward what you think is advance.

From what you've done, it is not clear whether you have a electrical or fuel problem. Attach the fuel gauge and try starting for the few minutes. The fuel pressure should be between 37 - 47 PSI. If you can'at get close to the right fuel pressure, it could be a bad fuel pump, Fuel Pressure Regulator, or bad injectors.

If it is electrical, you could pull out the ignition control module (ICM) that is in the distributor. A bad ICM can cause odd problems. You can pull ou the ICM and have it checked at Advance, Auto Zone, etc. Just make sure they test it several times until it gets hot. Sometimes one will test positive until it heats up.

The ICM can go out at any time. I always carry a spare with me since it is a 15 minute job to replace if I'm stuck on a highway in the middle of nowhere.

You could also have a leaking vacumn hose.

 

Since it stalls when you open the throttle, it's not just the IAC. It sounds more like a mixture control problem. It might not be getting enough fuel, and adding air finishes it off.
What exactly did you see on the fuel pressure gauge? Did you watch it while the car was running?

If you don't open the throttle, can you get it warmed up? Does it run better when warmed up some? If it's warm enough for the O2 sensor to work, and it idles for at least something like 30-60 seconds, then it will start reading from that sensor which may change the behavior.
If it can idle long enough to reach that point then you might also get a "check engine" code, which would help.

What happens if you electrically unplug the MAP sensor? I know you replaced it, but that's not the point.

 

As long as his timer is up on for the o2 sensor. Theres a long amount of time in the stock bin file for the o2 to go into closed loop when its cold. CL timer. This and the temp must be correct for it to go into go to CL

 

hahaha Sounds like you've got a Shorted/shorting out Fuel injector. No joke. unplug one injector at a time. and start it... it will skip of course but if it runs and revs then you'll know which one. but.......... I'd replace them all. theyre 52 bucks each at advance and napa. I just went through this 2 months ago

 

If it would turn out to be injectors....Id get injectors from southbay if I was you. There a great vendor that you can search for on here. You get a 10% discount and a set of 6 injectors is much less then napa or a store such as that. I got 6 48lbs injectors for about 140bucks iirc.

 

Geez fasteddi.... good call!!!!! wish i had known that!!!!!!

 

There awesome vendors on here forsure!. The support is great too. I always recommend them.

 

Mine does the same thing, i crank it up nd i have to give it gas for a few seconds just so it can stay on

 

Not the same thing, his stalls when he opens the throttle.

It would be best to start a new thread for help with your issue, that way this one won't get confused.

 

Its prob the injectors. My 92 was doing the same thing. Pulled them and one was showing 10 ohms while all the other ones were showing 12.8.