so my car had a bad vibration since I had it... FInally , after replacing every engine mount , harmonic balancer , everything, i dissmantled the engine and found that it had on the right side of the engine nober 4 and 6 connecting rod bent. got new rod , new rod bearings , but now , I need to adjust valves and rockers, so I need a step by step way on how much torque to apply on rocker nut , and how to set valve clearence . Any info ? I found on the net that you just torque the rocker nut, but that makes the valves to tight and you cant rotate the crank (Valve and piston touching) . So I would like if somebody could explaint it to me in a DUMMYS WAY TO DO IT way

Thanks in advance

 

The way I did it was to tighten the rocker arms down until the pushrods wouldn't spin too easily, but still had some room to spin. If you leave too much play in the up/down motion, it will sound like a v6 typewriter. As far as I have read, there is no specific torque value.

 

The way I've done many times is this:

Start at any of the valves that are all the way closed, tighten the nut down slowly till the pushrod can barley be turned by your finger. But make sure you can still turn it. Then tighten down 5/8th of a turn past that point and leave that valve/rocker. Go to the next valves that are all the way closed and do the same.

Then once you get the valves that are closed, you can then turn the crank over with a socket to get the valves that were open to be closed. Do the same as above but be sure not to do the same rocker 2 times. Once you set the nut down just leave it and move on.

The main thing you want to be sure of is that the valve is closed and there is no pressure on the lifter when you are lashing in the valves.

I believe that certain books say 1/2 of a turn (90* degrees) or 3/4ths of a turn. I always used 5/8ths of a turn and never had chattery or lose rockers and definitely never had a bent one from over tightening.

 

Also you wont have the valve hit the piston unless you have a retainer fall out....or the spring breaks....or the valve literally breaks....or the retainer fails and breaks.

Thankfully we have non interference motors so that if the timing chain broke it would not dump a valve right into the piston because of the valve timing being out of wack.

 

Yeah, fasteddi, is right, i forgot to mention the VERY important part about the valves being closed.