im in the middle of replacing my valve stems have it all torn down already but I'm having a bit of a problem finding out what I need. I found these http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...tem+gasket+set

however it doesn't specify if these are for the intake side or exhaust side? would I need to buy 2 of these to do both sides?
would you guys recommend these?
this is the first time I've done this job. any help is greatly appreciated.

so nvm I bought the set, it includes everything for both sides. but I do have one more question. can I do away with the spring dampeners? they make it next to impossible to compress the springs and don't really look like they do much. but then again I could be totally wrong

I always used umbrella style seals on my 3.1l. They are replacements for a sbc. They work very well.

and you use them for both sides?(intake and exhaust) or just on one?

yeah u should have bought a umbrella set for a small block cheny with a .530 guide diameter. they come 2 diff colors in the sets u get from the parts store one side is for the ex

if u buy a quality set form summit or speed shop they are all the same and can be used on int or ex side , a set is only a few bucks

dont use the orings they suck

everything is put back together. I found some pieces of very crusty brittle Orings from the past. only one was actually where it was supposed to be, the rest had completely disintegrated.
the set I got only had Orings for the exhaust side. what would happen if there isn't any type of seal on the exhaust sides? would it affect the angine at all or would it just dump a bit more oil into the exhaust?

I would think without ex. Seals you wouldn't get good control of the oil and also could dump excess oil into the comb. Chamber and or the exhaust which would cause excess smoke.

You gotta run seals especially the valve guides are close to being outta spec.

I always ran good umbrellas from summit. These were all the same color and worked great.

that's interesting. because my manual doesn't call for any seals other than an O ring for the exhaust side. like I said in the above posts mine were all gone. I didn't really have any excess smoke from the exhaust (other than a small puff at start up) but was fine the rest of time.
spark plugs never had oil on them. they were a bit dark from a rich condition but not oily. everything is back together ex side only has Orings again. haven't tried starting her up yet though. hopefully everything ill be fine, Im more concerned with me adjusting the valves properly than anything else... either way thanks for the response!

Adjusting the rockers isn't too hard. Just remember to adjust them with the valve closed. 5/8th of a turn after 0 lash. Some go less or more but I've found that 5/8th is a good spot.

I went by what my manual says, I think it was 3/4 turns after 0 lash. I doubt that is the best way to do it but its all I knew at the time. it said to place #1cyl on TDC and adjust some half the valves (I forgot the exact number of the cylinders) then place #4cyl on TDC and adjust the other half. im just a weekend wrencher and always thinking of the worst case scenario! lol

3/4 is to much , 1/2-5/8's is all it needs form zero lash

Agreed. 3/4 turn made me lose compression, 1/2 was perfect for me.

is it really too much? I just went by the manual but I don't trust those tings for anything. looks like i'll be tearing back into it again dammit.

would you guys say 1/2 or 5/8 is better?

It all depends on the mileage/condition of the motor. Mine was done with 3/4 turn past zero lash. Zero lash is tricky because everyone has their own way of finding it. After 3/4 turn on my lash adjustment, I lost compression on cylinder 6. BUT, and I stress this point right here, I was feeling for zero lash by grabbing the pushrod with 2 fingers and spinning it. This is NOT the way to feel for zero lash! Everyone has differing strengths doing it this way so 2 procedures this way will not be the same.

Run one finger along the pushrod while you tighten the rocker little by little. As soon as the pushrod stops turning freely, give the rocker nut a half turn past this point. You have now found zero lash AND set the lifter preload.

The first 2 lash adjustments I did on this car, the valve train still wound up noisy, this with the grab the pushrod and spin with 2 fingers method and 3/4 turn past zero lash.

I was running on 5 cylinders. I redid the adjustment using the single finger method and 1/2 turn past zero lash, and now it runs smooth as butter, AND I can't even hear the valvetrain anymore.

Anywhere in between 1/2-5/8 past zero lash should be good. The higher the mileage the more towards 1/2 turn I would go. My motor has 280k + miles on it.

You could set it to get the highest compression on each cylinder, but I really do not see the benefit of doing it this way. You could wind up with differing preloads for each lifter which IMO may or may not be bad for the cam lobes.

FWIW, The way I did it this time around, I got 140psi on every cylinder.

so you did 1/2 turn after it stopped spinning with one finger and that is 0 lash?
then on top of that you go the other 1/2-5/8 turn for the final adjustment?

I did the 2 finger method then did 3/4 turn after I felt resistance. im having a lot of valve train noise typewriter like as ive heard it referred to.

Run your finger along the pushrod while you slowly tighten the rocker. Once it stops spinning that is Zero lash. Once you are at zero lash, give the rocker nut 1/2 a turn and thats it.

ok that clears that up haha. thanks for the advice. kind of makes me wonder why I even bought the manual. I swear I learn way more from this site!! thanks again

dont spin the pushrod wiggle it up and down till it dont move , then tighten 5/8's of a turn


the spin method takes alot of practice and feel to get right

It will stop moving up and down before it stops spinning. For me I couldnt get it right by wiggling the pushrod. If I ran just one finger along the pushrod and felt for it to stop, I found zero lash every time. But everyone is different, which shows in the valve lash adjustment.

one last question. do you guys adjust cyl by cyl on TDC or do as the manual says #1 cyl on TDC and adjust half the valves (cant remember exactly which ones) then #4 cyl on TDC?

When you adjust them just make sure the lifter is down as far as it will go. So that the valve would be closed.