Well I'd like to see some slips... you probly did a good job though compared to me. I did a pretty poor job though at porting them.. lol but I had no idea what I was doing back then. If anything I messed up the vein in the runners a bit to where it probly hurt the flows in reality oh well. I'm just glad I diched the iron and went where the real flow is.

 

ill dif them out of my photobucket sometime tonight

 

Able to dig out those timeslips? @project89


Might go out in the garage and start working on the motor. It is only like... 14 degrees out? Normal Michigan weather.

 

It is Damm cold out. I finally did my first suspention mod last night besides the adjustable rear kyb shocks I put on 3 years back. I tossed on tubular lower control arms. My fingers were frozen!! That was a cold 45 minuets to install those puppies

 

Got the harness off, going to make some progress on it over this weekend. Just want to clean up/re-loom everything since it is so brittle. Also need to order those flanges and the cam from Delta. Going to call them tomorrow since they still have not answered my email... oh well.

 

i found one now i need to find the other, my photo bucket is huge lol i need to clean it out one day , soon as i can find the pre ported head one ill get them posted , i shoulda said videos instead lol those would have been easier to find

 

u did a nice job in the bowls and runner section from what i saw , i dont think u ever showed the port entrance though so i can comment. iirc u even did a nice job on the chambers

 

Just purchased my 260 cam and lifters from Delta cam for $100 + shipping! Now to order the header flanges!

 

Awsome. Another delta cam owner. I love them man, no complaints here at all with those cams and the service they provide. I really do not understand why more people adding cams to 60 degree V6 thirdgens dont buy them. Instead they by comp cams...exc for double the cost sometimes and get the same quality. Get your header flanges and some piping and stop my my house. I got a nice new tig set up at the house, its so easy to learn how to use, but ill be sure to have a nice pile of sharpened tungsten for you as beginners tear the tungsten up alot..lol I know because all of us tig welders did it many many times.

 

I can't wait till it gets here, ordering the flanges probably tomorrow. I'm getting pretty excited for this build to happen. Took some time tonight and did half of the wiring harness after being out in the cold taking accessories off the engine.


Maybe I will have to tack everything together and bring it all down there!

 

Well I came down with something similar to the flu this week. No real updates on progress, but my cam came in today. Also talked with a guy from my old class and he is now the CNC tech at my college. Going to try and get my flanges done for free! Lol

Cam looks great, only problem was that they forgot my lifters. I wasn't charged for them at all, must have just been a miscommunication. Getting it taken care of now.

 

Awsome, you got the cam. And a free flange would be awesome as well.

 

Ordered full gasket set tonight, might as well do the head gaskets since I am already down here. Removed the intake today, and painted up the engine. Should be coming together here pretty quick, getting excited!

 

Wohoo!!

 

use real breakin oil when u put this thing back together , i just went threw 2 cams and its not fun

 

I plan on it, the break in stage probably isn't for a while though.

 

Got the wiring all finished up, dedicating next weekend to get the motor together!

 

Awsome buddy. Its all coming together for ya! I'm excited to see it all come together for you. Ya know if you get it dialed in tuning wise you'll have to take it down the track a few times to see what it can do. And to be honest if you have time on one of the test and tune days, that's the best time to dial in a solid WOT tune. And it is sure a hellof a lot safer then flooring it to 100mph on the street. I have to do that some times and at least its over quickly...about 10 seconds or so but some times its hard to let off the gas and all of the sudden im going 125mph and it literly only took about 12 seconds to do that so its dangerusly fast at times. While saying that, I will add that i'm getting too old and going that fast out on the country roads anymore really scares me if a deer jumped out in front of my, if the car broke...exc So i dont do that very often anymore. But 3 or 4 years ago when I first turboed it, i made 10x as many WOT drags on the country roads then the race track. Crap i get a little scared going 120 mph at the track sometimes because of my lack of a roll cage.

 

Well, about time for some real updates.

 

Lookin' good.

 

Thanks! Still have a long way to go. Can't wait to see it all start to come together though. Next step after engine assembly is to paint the engine bay. Still need to remove my a/c box since I have the a/c delete box.

Also need to get a new harmonic balancer. Iver never seen it happen before, but the damn thing split when I pulled it off! You can see it on the table in the bottom right.

 

It seperated? Wow. I've heard that can happen but have never actually seen it. If your on a budget I have a extra one that I'll never use again, it's yours for free next time I see ya if ya want.

 

What type of puller did you use? If you used a 3 jaw puller I would expect that to happen, even with a new balancer.

There's a puller that uses the pulley bolt holes to keep from separating the balancer.

 

Thanks mark, I would really appreciate that. They are about $40 new, so that would save me a good chunk. And yeah, we used a 3-jaw puller. I didn't expect it to be that stubborn! Oh well, I think I will use it and the old cam towards some artwork for my dorm.

 

take the cam over to a machine shop and have them drill a 3/8's hole all the way threw it and then u can turn it into a lamp

r u going to do new pistons or anything in the motor? or just hone and rering it
i would look on ebay for a cheap set of new kb pistons u can useally pick them up for 30 bucks , they are a bit stronger then the factor pistons and have a much nicer smooth crown that wont generate hotspots

dont forget to number the rods so they go back on the crank were they came from , also shim ur oil pump for a tad more oil presure , how much depends on the bearing clearances , get urself a set of platigauges

 

quick example
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Enginetech-P...RUo0IB&vxp=mtr

u would have to dbl check those are stock size but enginetech uses kb & speedpro pistions

 

Thanks for the tip on the cam!


Honestly this is a budget build; it always has been. I plan on doing a hybrid build and slowing putting it together other the summer. This engine is just for fun and learning, if it doesn't blow up then that is great!

 

More pictures

 

Well, I had taken some very good and in depth pictures with my nice camera, but it turns out there was no sd card in it. Lesson learned I guess...

Going to tackle the injectors tonight and put the new ones in the fuel rail. I went with the 36lb from southbay, any recommendations with the install? I have seen people say use two o-rings, and a bunch of different stuff. Valve covers, brackets, and some other stuff should be getting shot-blasted tonight.

 

Could really use some help with these injectors. I cannot seem to get the clips back in. It's like the clips are spread when on the new injectors and there is not enough clearance. Please help!

 

I never use clips on my injectors.

 

So would I be good just using the soapy water method and getting the injectors as far in as I can? I read that the pressure will actually keep the injectors in place.

 

I haven't actually played with a gen1 MPFI setup, but on any other engine I've had I just use the pressure of the fuel rail to hold the injector.

To me the clips are only for ease of assembly at the factory, where the injectors are installed into the rail and then to the engine.

 

Forever feeling stupid..

Dish soap + injector + effort = success

 

I never used the clips either. Just on the electrical is all.but ya you gotta lube it up. I usually use orings grease.

 

Kind of at a standstill on the engine, just waiting to get the rest of the parts shot blasted. Hopefully can get it done tonight, then I can finish putting the engine together.

Next step is the engine bay. I need to remove my A/C box and install my A/C delete box. It needs a little bit of bodywork though, as it had some surface rust when I got it. Also need to check if the fan works, hopefully it does... lol.

Going gloss black on the engine bay to match the top half of the car. After it is painted I will re-install the engine and then get to work on the hotside. Already not looking forward to re-installing the engine since we had to pull it from the side in the first place. Fun, fun, fun.

 

Be grateful its a small engine. Its not something that is good, but I've pulled mine so many times that I could probably do it blindfolded...lol Just be careful not to scratch anything when it goes back in. I'm sure you'll do fine.

 

Thanks mark. Besides dropping the engine entirely, my biggest fear is scratching the paint!

 

One thing you'll also need one day if you havent gotten any yet is some AC Delco R42ts spark plugs. There colder then the stockers. You can grab them at autozone or a place like that. About 2-3 bucks a pop. Gap them at about .030 at first and see how that goes. You can always open them up or tighten them up later but for now i would gap it tight so you know you wont have any spark blow out while you are learning to tune. Better to not have any weird things happening that could have been prevented.

I remember having my spark blow out when I gapped them at about .038 when I first started my build 4 years back. Its not a good feeling when spark blow out happens. Its like hitting a rev limiter...lol

Now I have my R42lts plugs gapped to .040 and have no issues at all but the DIS helps a lot over the stock fbody stuff. FYI R42lts plugs are the same range as the r42ts you will use but the length is different for the gen 3 heads i'm running. IIRC they are the stock plugs that they used in the Grandnationals. Just figured I'd let ya know in case you go hybrid in the future years.

Your ignition is completly stock right? All oem stuff?

 

Thanks mark, I really appreciate it. I will probably pick them up this weekend since spring break is next week. Expect a lot of updates!


Yep, all stock besides a MSD street fighter coil. I also need new spark plugs because as I pulled them off the ends actually stuck to the plugs. Also one looked like it was pretty burnt up. Any recommendations?

 

did u push the pistons out and open up the top ring gaps by any chance ?
if not how many miles on the motor

if u didnt open the ring gaps and the motor is low mileage u very well may run into issues
opening the ring gaps is one of the most important things u need to do when turboing

 

Motor has 130k miles on it, to late now anyways.

 

with 130k on it i think u will be ok , the most dangerous time will be when u first start to tune it

 

Yeah I know, everyone's help is going to be very needed.

 

Yea with 130k miles i would be willing to bet your ring gap is fine.

I broke a ring and also the ringlands on the piston the first year i was turboed. The only reason it broke....... some idiot (ME) forgot to turn the alky injection on when racing it at the track. I was stupid back then and had the thing on kill mode tune with the alky injection chasing that 12 second barrior. Being that if the alky failed the tune was so far aggressive that it would go way lean and or have very high IATs and cause detination.

Point being. Ya it wouldn't hurt to push out a piston and peak at the gap, but if your intentions are what you say they are, and you wont be on kill mode anytime soon, you are pretty safe running it as is.

I would bet good money that my 110k mile engine (at the time) that i broke that ring on, would have never broken if I would have just tuned it more conservative and/or wired the alky different so that it was armed anytime the car was running so that I wouldn't have forgot to turn it on.


Don't worrie, Im no expert but Ill come over when your first fire that thing up and start tuning. Its not hard. Good thing is you can take the mistakes I made back when I was learning and use them to avoid making them as well.

Back when I first started to tune my turbo set up I had tons of help and guidance from members on here. Without them I would have had a much harder time, but having some one literally in the car with you showing you things and teaching you some basic skills will go a far way and i'm sure you will catch on fast. So again, no worries, you will do fine and ill be sure to set aside time to come help you when the time comes.

 

For spark plug wires... if you have 50 bucks to spend on a good set I highly recommend Taylor wires. Specifically these ones in the link below. I have always ran Taylor wires. No complaints here. These ones handle heat very very well and with a turbo and some piping under the hood you want a good thick set to handle the heat. At the end of the day, for what me and you are doing, you are not going to see a difference in performance when comparing some MSDs to Taylors for the most part. I just like these and have always used them. Thats the current set I have on the car, there 3 years old and have seen lots of heat and abuse and still look and feel like brand new.

If you search around you can also get different colors if you want, such as red but generally the red ones are in a different model of taylor wires. But even the cheaper taylors are good. I just like these, again, because of there high resistance to heat. And the blue color is definitely a pretty color that doesn't fade over time.

Also if you copy that part number i'm sure you could shop around elsewhere like Jegs or Ebay and see if you can get them cheaper.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ta...make/chevrolet

 

Thanks for the link mark, I will probably end up buying those along with the spark plugs this weekend. Waiting to hear about my flanges I am getting made, no updates yet. Might end up pulling the trigger on ones I know that will work, or better yet just buying stock and making it fit. Starting to get a little impatient!! lol

 

Update time! Making my way to Mark's sometime this week to pick up his old harmonic balancer. Thanks for all the help man!

After droping a bolt down the distributor hole I had to flip the engine upside down and take off the oil pan. Glad I did because we only left the bolts hand tight on there. Looking good though!

Quick question of the day, the bottom of the injectors is barely inside the cylinder (don't know how else to describe it). The fuel rail is bolted down, but the o-rings are level with the top of the surface. Is that okay? Do I need to tear it apart? I made sure to lubricate them with soapy water before installing.

Thanks!

 

Going to go ahead and order MSD 8.5 mm spark plugs and the AC Delco R42TS plugs through advanced auto. Why?

Advanced Auto Parts has a 20% off coupon:
Plugs: $11.95
MSD Wires: $93.99 to $75.19
Total: $87.14

Jegs:
Plugs: $16.14
Taylor Wires: $50.99 (Red)
Total w/ handling: $75.12

I'm just going to pay the extra $10 for the MSD wires, I know I don't exactly need them but for $10 more I can't complain at all. Also, advanced auto does not supply taylor wires. But hey, now my wires match my coil pack.. haha. Will place the order later on to let anyone chime in, but I think it is the best deal.

 

I'd go Taylor every time. My MSD sets never lasted as long as my Taylors did.