Thanks six_shooter, I should break it in tomorrow. I have to study for final exams... graduation is friday.

Got the new MAT and belt for the car. The belt size I got was 82.5 inches incase anyone else decides to get rid of smog and a/c at the same time.

 

Bought a new TPS sensor and now I have voltage, read .7 at 0% throttle when I just plugged it up with no adjustment very quickly.

Checked my flags and I have a code 43 (I did plug the est wire back in) and also a low voltage code for the TPS.

 

Coolant in the oil, I obviously made a mistake somewhere. Now that school is over the girlfriend and I are going to tear the top end down tomorrow.

Going to inspect the head gaskets, buy new head bolts, and inspect the intake gaskets. Hopefully it is something small. I'm glad I caught it early on and not down the road.

 

what was your prior procedure, did you reuse head bolts? were they TTY? its probably simple but at least you realized there was an issue right away and it happened now and not at WOT cruising down the road

 

Yeah my dad and I read the torque spec wrong. We tightened it to 40 ft lbs then 90 ft lbs instead of the 90 degrees. A stupid mistake, but live and learn I guess.

Also didn't help that I took the passenger head off to remove that stud and then tightened it back down correctly.

Buying new head gasket set, head bolts, and o-ring for the distributor.

 

Should be here tomorrow...

 

Stuff happends. Better to have that happen now then when wot and on 10psi of boost....

 

be sure to run a tap threw the headbolt holes in the block or u wont get accurate tq readings

 

Got the car all back together, starts up and idles great.

Got the wideband working, idles around 13.2 afr. Still need to calibrate it though and what not. All that is left is a leaky transmission dipstick, and wiring in the boost controller.

 

Got everything back together except for wiring in my boost solenoid. I can't figure out what pin it goes to on my ecm. Can someone post a quick answer?

 

Took the car out down the road a mile, afrs looked really good (mid 13 - mid 14) for being around 2-3k rpm.

There is still some little things I have to do such as coolant overflow, but overall it seemed pretty good.

I will post up some pictures to verify that my vacuum hoses are all set up correctly. I feel really stupid, but I know I probably made a mistake. Also, I need to verify that I installed the boost solenoid correctly. I installed it to pin f2, same as the 7749 since I run code 59.


Stupid question of the day, should I hear the blow off valve or the waste gate open if I free rev?

 

wastegate no , but u may hear the bov depending on how u have it adjusted, useually it will take a few up and down revs for it to spin up the turbo enough to make noise though

 

ok I wasn't sure. I think I have everything wired correctly and whatnot, just took it around the block. Ran ok, adding some more fuel into the tune as it was a little lean above 2,000 rpm. Thankfully mark was really close for idle and to get the car moving on the base tune.

 

Not when free reving.. it's pretty doubtful you will build any boost but when driving and tossing a load on it when building boost you will.

You have a rfl bov so you will hear that. It's my old one and its stands up to its name.. lol

You also have a screamer pipe. I ran one and always could hear it. Which is a good thing becuse you know the gate is opening and you don't have massive boost leaks. I don't run one anymore... which I like because after awhile.. it's innoying imo.

I'm coming home from South Carolina tommorow night. 1 week down there had been amazing. I'll try to help when I get back if you have issues.

 

Well of course, more issues..

Pulled back into the driveway after a quick run down the road and the car shut off on me. Dead batter, no biggie.

Now I charge up the battery, and the only way it starts is with my foot on the pedal. If I take it off, the car dies instantly. What gives? I tried running some searches, but no luck.

 

I think the IAC went out on me. When plugged in the car wont start, needs me to hold down the pedal to start and stay running. When I unplugged the IAC it started right up and idled high.

 

Much luck diagnosing that, John. I know how frustrating that can be.

-Jim

 

Well I went and bought a new iac, ended up returning it. I plugged it in, and the car stalled out when I put it in gear. Plugged the old one back in and it was fine... I talked to mark and he said I should have done an idle re-learn, and I should have. The new iac was probably fine, but I needed the idle re-learn. I saved myself $62.62 by using the old one though. I guess I just had to clean off the carbon build up!

Anyways, my wideband was flaking out on me while driving. The guage gives me one reading, and the actual output to tuner pro gives me another. I have been trusting the one on tuner pro though, hopefully I can get this figured out tonight. I have everything grounded on the same post, that is probably the problem.

 

Hopefully fixed the wideband, had a couple wiring problems. The LC-1 Wideband is notorious for being picky.

On another note, the ebay turbo is burning oil... that didn't take long. As long as it holds together, I will probably look at an on3 or something.

 

pictures of the turbo and drain tubing plz , u may just have oi backing up in the turbo , i have never had a turbo go out that fast

and dont buy an on3 its the same turbo u have no with a higher price tag and the owner of the company is a total jackass

if it truley did take the seal out for whatever reason u can reseal the turbo for about 10$

 

I can get some up close pictures tomorrow for you, thanks for looking out for me. Nice to know its only $10 for a new seal. I looked earlier and I had an exhaust leak where the downpipe meets the turbo. I put a new metal gasket in there and it sealed back up. I did notice there was some oil residue inside the turbo and also on my wheel well where the exhaust leak was. Hopefully that helps diagnose it.

Nice to know about the on3's also, I always thought they were a step up.

 

Dave's right. And I've never seen a turbo go out that fast either. You return oil line may not be flowing down hill enough. Considering you've never really ran that thing with boost yet.... I doubt your turbo is going out.

And a on3 is no better then what you have. Just like Dave said.

Also are you sure it's oil from the turbo? Not the rings on you engine after the last few little issues you had?

But since I haven't seen it either some pic should help us guide you on what may be wrong.

 

Tuning is going pretty good, not as bad as I thought it would. The car is running pretty good now that I have figured out what I am doing. It is still showing a code 42 though? That leaves it up to anything. It didn't have this problem before, so it is obviously something I did.

Other than that, I just got back in from a quick spin. I need to hook up a boost gauge to see how much I am making, but I'm pretty sure the wastegate is leaking bad. I can feel the blowby at idle. Also probably found my problem with the oil return line, it fell under my lower coolant hose (I have it ziptied together), and then it has to come back up. Letting the car cool down then I will fix it. Raced a bike down my road though, the car definitely has a lot more *****.

 

Have you datalogged any boosted pulls yet??
Im glad my tune at least got ya up and going.


what do you mean by the wastegate is leaking bad? Blow by? Are you saying that the car isnt building boost? You will definitely hear the wastegate if its leaking out of it...lol screamer pipe! I know that sound anywhere as I ran one for years.

 

Code 42 is is from the EST line (tan/black) is disconnected, usually done when setting base timing.

 

Car is still making some knock around 3500-4000 rpm when i get on it. The AFR looks great though, which is what I don't get. Hopefully I can get it sorted out soon, totally feels like a whole new car though.

 

what is afr , timing advance , boost presure , and engine load at time knock occurs?

does it show knock if u rev the engine in nutral at the same rpm etc etc

 

I will put the log up today, I have one where I leaned my foot on it to see what it would do, then I also cruised 10 miles out to my girlfriends house last night. Car drives great, just need to figure out this knock and also get that burning oil figured out... It only happens when I step on the car or come to a stop light after driving for a while. It doesn't do it upon startup at all.

 

Here are the files, I included 2 logs both off of the same bin.

The "knock problems" log file is a quick trip down the road after retarding the timing .05 degrees from before.

The "cruise" log file is about an 11 mile cruise, there is no knock because I never got on the car.

Also, the car has fake knock on startup. It did this before when I first started logging the car.

Any help is really appreciated. If someone wants to take a crack at a .bin for me I will test it out asap. I really appreciate all the help, in the final stretch guys!

 

Ill check it out. May just need to tweak the attack rate and when it comes into play. I made that tune for you almost blow up proof. LOL Its pretty mild and the spark knock is pretty strong as well as youve never tuned anything before i wanted to make sure you didnt blow it up the first rip....

 

Probably no new updates till next week, going out camping with the family for memorial day. Already have a new tune ready to drop in, just have to test it.

 

Well I was finally able to make some boost last night with Marks help. Drove down to his house to get some new injectors and some tuning help. Car drove great all the way down there and back. Feels like a totally different car, pulls super hard till the Wastegate opens and it kind of falls on its face. Boost solenoid was not working, so we switched it with marks and it still would not work. If someone could get me a diagram, and the correct pin, I would really appreciate it to verify where I went wrong. I can't even imagine the car at 12.5 psi where the base tune is...

 

what wastegate spring do u have in it?

a boost controller is typically only good for dbl the spring presure , before ex back presure will force the wastegate open

 

I believe it has an 8 psi spring in it. I believe it is probably a wiring issue.


On another note there is a drive ability issue. The car dies when I put it in park and sometimes it won't start if I don't put my foot on the gas and hold it till I put it in drive or reverse. Oh yeah, it died it reverse too when I back in at a car show

 

I dont think its your spring at all. I wish i would have had more time to help trouble shoot some more. You 12vdc is going to the solenoid, your switched ecm ground is going there or at least i will say the wire ohmed out fine. Your D2 pin is coming from your ecm just like mine, its put in the correct direction and the correct lines, we even tried mine which i know works and it didnt work. You can see on the data log that your command DC is going up as the boost is way off its command so the bin itself is telling the ecm to work.

I would def double check your pin again, the wiring to the solenoid and also the harness on the solenoid.

For now to get the boost up to where you want i would do this, run your reference from your wastegate to the back of your intake manifold. I guarentee youll be closer to the 8psi that the springs wants the car to run. I know with that little intercooler and such that your are getting a good pressure drop from your turbo to the manifold. At lest 2 or 3 psi. And that spring probly isnt a perfect 8psi because they rarely are but it should up you boost a little bit.

Do you have any other springs for that wastegate? I have a ton of them, i forgot to bring that up. Different sizes for different gates, im sure i have a 10psi one that would fit your set up.

Besides that stuff your car is running good. You still have some weird KR here and there but its damm near gone now that we messed with it last night. Car felt good at 5psi on those WOT pulls. Not too shabby.' I bet it would run high 15s right now, which isnt too bad. Get that boost up to 10-12psi and youll be in the mid/high 13s no problem with a good tune. I know your not so picky about times like me...lol but still to have a streetable mid high 13 second v6, it will be fun as i could see you were having fun last night and it was only running 5psi which would be high 15s by the way it felt to me.

I forgot to also ask, did you varifly that your timing with the est wire unhooked at a warm idle matches the base timing i have in your bin file?

Also does the afr guage match the datalogs? At least within .1 or .2. I forgot to check and since your using the laptop and dont have the guage in there i forgot to bring that up.

I had fun helping you man. I got some parts today so my short block is getting all tossed back together and hopefully by the end of the month shes back at the track again.

 

1227730 ECM? The wastegate control solenoid pin will be F2.

 

I wonder if the problem is as simple as the fact that the line is going to the side of the Wastegate and not the top...

It's wired into pin f2, but I will verify everything tomorrow.

 

Yes f2 is correct. I rechecked mine. I though I wrote that yesterday but my fat thumbs did otherwise. D and f are too close on a keyboard...lmao

Check the ports on the solenoid again. Just Google gm 3 port boost solenoid and you'll see many many images on the routing and such as its a very popular solenoid.

Remember i turned your command boost down to 8.5psi.

 

Well I took it down the road after an idle relearn and attempt to fix the oil leaks. Pan is the main one, don't know why. Leaks out of the very back down into the dirt cover.

Now one problem I have experienced is a rough/no idle. After I drove 45 minutes to a car show Saturday, the car would die instantly in reverse, neutral, and park. After driving to and from mark's house (2 hour round trip) the car would die as soon as I put it in park. Doing an idle learn seemed to fix this, but I wonder if my problem is deeper. Can heat soak affect an iac?

 

Car is running pretty good, still have little bugs though.

- Boost solenoid is not working correctly. I have it wired to pin F2, is this correct? I have the vaccum lines on the right way, using the reference port from the turbo. Car is limited to about 5 psi right now.

- Idle issues. Doesn't matter what I do, after a long drive it idles terrible and stays that way till I do an idle re-learn. Is my IAC going out? Is this a code 59 problem? The car sometimes does when I put it in reverse, drive, or park. At 1% throttle it doesn't die... I believe my idle is set to 925 rpm on the tune, but even at that it shouldn't die when I put it in gear.


Other than that the car seems to be running pretty well. I've put about 500 miles on it so far without a big issue. Even at 5 psi it feels like a totally new car. I would really recommend anyone who is interested in doing a turbo setup to look into it. Ask questions, talk to those who have done it. I even have a mock up log header and basically brand new 36lb injectors if someone is interested.

 

Pin F2 is correct for boost control, verified by Mark.

My problem was that code 59 was operating based off the closed loop boost tables, not the open loop one. So while my desired boost target was 12.5 psi, the closed loop table limited me to 6.88 psi.

 

I'm starting to find out that tuning is not as easy as it seems. I feel like I'm just chasing my tail on this tune. I can change one thing or a million things and it doesn't seem to make a difference. Can't bring the idle up past 12.7 afr, can't seem to get rid of this knock no matter how great my boosted afr is or how much timing I pull. If anyone could offer some sort of advice I would really appreciate it.

 

I may have found my tuning issue.

When I hit at 10 mph, I get no knock until third gear.

When I hit third gear, my MAT is around 120-125 degrees. This is when the engine peaks spark knock.

I think I need to bring those down as much as I possibly can. Going to change my air filter to pull from the fender, bigger air filter, need to cut out some of the front brace to open it up, also need to re-install the panel around the hood latch. I'm hoping all of this will help me bring the MAT's down around 110-115 degrees.

Besides that the AFR is absolutely spot on. I'm still having issues with idle as it will not lean out at all and still hunts for a solid idle. It eventually dies in park.

 

120-125 is not a big deal , u did put an intercooler on right

 

You really want 20-30 above ambient temps at the most. You IC is pretty small from what i remember when i saw it. But it might help as well if you turn up the boost a bit so you can get into the efficient area. 8psi is a bit low on that compressor. See if you can work your way up to 10psi and if it goes up still then your IC is too small or its placement is off. IIRC your placement was ok though. But where it breaths in the air probly could be better....

On my set up I get 10-20 degrees max above ambient temps but then again my IC is pretty big. I rarely see temps higher then 100 110 degrees at the track on a pass in the heat of the summer time.

 

I added the filler panel on top and that seemed to make a huge difference in the MATs, also need to order a 180 deg thrermostat and also the larger cold air intake. Going to pull from the fender.

Increased the boost from 8.44 psi to 10 psi... I am really starting to become blown away by the results. Just thinking about doing the hybrid build now....

Also for future reference, 36lb injectors run at 83% duty cycle at 10 psi. AFR is 11.5-11.6, stock heads, stock intake, 260 delta cam, GT3582r. Glad I got some 48lbs from mark!

 

we warned u would be addicting lol, anyone who plans on doing a turbo build should get minimum 42-50# injectors right form the start

 

Didn't I reccomend you put that lid on there a month ago?? Lol I am glad that helped you.


Boost is definitly fun. Dial it in better and I'm willing to bet you can squeeze out a 13 second pass soon.

 

Thanks guys, and yeah Mark you did! lol

I thought I would be able to squeeze by on the 36lbs because of the engine being so stock. Hopefully someone who is looking at a turbo build is interested in them and I can get some money back.

I really don't want to hit anything about the 83% duty cycle so I will probably be putting the new injectors in this week. Going to have to look up how to modify my tune for them as Mark setup my base tune. Also starting to run out of wiggle room in the VE table so I have to figure that one out too.

I think I will dial this little engine in and start looking at the next step here soon. With college coming up I don't think I will have much time to build and install the engine over the winter. Only time will tell I guess. If this little thing could squeeze out some high 12s I will be thoroughly impressed... Haha

 

Once you install the 48 pound injectors your ve values will go down significantly allowing you a lot of room. Actually if you multiply your whole ve table by 75% that would be your new values to accommodate your 48 pound injectors. And if that doesn't allow you enough room there are a few other ways that I can show you on how to lower your numbers on your main table.

I can't wait to see your car out at the racetrack it will be fun to watch another turbo thirdgen V6. Back when I had my iron headed 3.1l motor I didn't know crap and I ran high 12s. You probably know more now than I did back then so I'm sure that with 15 16 pounds of boost in a kill mode tune you will be able to lay down some 12s as well.