Cross over pipe and log header done!

 

Nice smooth transition on the x over to the pass side log. The thing i had different on the logs i had, was the x over cam in on the back of the log. Where it dead ends. SO im curious if that puppy will flow better then the ones i had. Or if that route will add resistance to the number 5 (back pass side cylinder) and not let that single cylinder flow as well as the rest may.... but then again that x over is smaller then the pass log so it may have a venturi effect and help that number 5 cyl out.

Oh yea i think that one box has a wastegate in it! lol

 

same style log i did on pilsburys car , it worked/works very well
on an n/a motor it would hurt that cyl , on turbocharged stuff even the ugliest headers will make killer power

on something all out u would notice the difference but on his or a mild motor u wouldnt know if it had nice full headers or that log

if u wanted to build a log like that the best way to do it would be put a 90* off the head and connect it to the log with a 1.5 - 2/2.25/2.5 inch reducer ( whatever the main log tube size is )

 

Working on getting the wiring harness in. Either I'm forgetting a bunch of stuff or I don't need half of these wires... got pretty much everything plugged in that is needed for the engine to run.

 

Sensors to hook up when installing engine
Iac
Tps
Iat
3 bar map
Knock sensor
O2
Guage coolent temp
Ecm coolent temp
Oil pressure
Vss
Tcc


Other things
Dizzy
Icm (if you undid it under the cap)
Injector harness
Plug wires
TV cable
Throttle cable
Trans lines
Fuel lines
Shifter cable
That's really about it when you are eliminating all emissions.

I can't wait to see your ride run again!!!

 

Thanks for the list mark, everything is plugged in and connected besides the transmission wires which I will hook up when I hook up the hotside here in the next few days. Got some wire loom so I can protect all the wires, then I need to tape off the smaller ones.

 

Man if it isn't one thing its another.

Spent 5 hours getting the harness in place and figuring out what I need and don't need. Then I went to go put the log header on and the bolts didn't line up. After I got that in, I went to go hook up the cross over and it was an inch to short.

 

put a flex pipe in the xover , also when u weld stuff like logs together they must be bolted down to a cyl head , same thing with the croossover pipe, it has to be bolted up and in place. otherwise it will move all around and wont fit when u put it on the car

 

I plan on putting a flex in soon, but I just want to get the car together right now. I must have had something loose when I mocked it all up, but live and learn I guess.

 

that tiny lil filter will damage the turbo , what ends up happening is u create a huge vacum on the inlet side , and it pulls ou\il threw the seal and into the housing , eventually destroying the seal

get a 90* silicone elbow and then run an air filter over in the fender , or if u did cut the whole tray out u can run the 90 downwards and put a filter on that

looking good otherwise

 

I kinda wish I knew that. I had originally bought the larger one using a $20 off coupon at autozone, and had to return it because it was to big. Now I can't return this one because I had to modify it...

Should this one be okay for a little while?

 

u can use it for a lil while at very low boost just keep an eye on it to make sure u arent getting oil commin out of the compressor housing

this filter will work just fine
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-INCH-CHROM...tTAwdl&vxp=mtr

though i would try to find one thats even longer/bigger for best results

 

even better
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Air-filter-4...dW5tLa&vxp=mtr

 

Thanks for the links! I will go ahead and use the small filter to start, then when I start to turn the boost up I will get the bigger filters. I will probably stay around 5-8 psi for a little while until I get comfortable with the car again.

 

u need to zip tie the vacum line block on the back of the tb.

if u dont ziptie it it will pop out of the back of the throttle body under boost, on my car i ended up taking the block out and welding the holes shut and then using a vacum manifold on the brake booster hose

here ive circled it for ya

 

Got the turbo oil lines in, put 3.5 quarts of 20w-50, and started messing with my starter since I wired it wrong (go figure). Started messing with the battery cable that goes to the starter and the end snapped off. Thats it. Done for tonight.

 

heres a questions, in a turbo application do you have to run thicker oil through the vehicle since the turbo is also sing it as lubricant?

musta been frustrated with the car before the cable snapped? sounds like my week

 

i always use thicker oil , the turbo heats adds more heat to the oil so its cheap insurance

15-40 or 20-40 is what i run

 

I run 20w50 always have since day one of tuboing my car.

 

I run 5W-30 or 10W-30 in my turbo cars. For the amount of time that an engine is really in boost and a significant amount of heat is being added to the oil is very short.

If you're that worried an oil cooler will help.

Use oil just thick enough to provide the proper pressure that is desired under all operating conditions, any thicker is just stealing power.

 

I will remember that when I do the first oil change, which is probably around 500 miles for the break-in period?

 

all's u did was a cam swap right , swap the filter at 500 miles and change the oil after 2-3k miles

unless ur breaking oil specifys u change it much sooner , my breaking oil calls for 1000 miles or one weekend at the drag strip

 

So I got my taxes back, and I am sort of looking ahead.

Option 1: My buddy is thinking about taking the 3.1l out of his car soon in favor of a V8 swap. I would probably slowly build this engine on the side as a 3.1 hybrid engine.

Option 2: http://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/pts/5522572853.html 2006 Impala 3500 V6 for $275. Ad says it has only been up for a couple days, but this guy has been trying to sell it forever. I had a friend look at the picture and he believes that the ad might be incorrect and the block might be a non-vvt block. I have done some searches on here and other forums and the basic breakdown is: motor mounts, starter configuration, rwd timing cover, rwd accessories. A good sticky on this would be fantastic.

 

That 3500 V6 probably does have VVT because, if the ad is correct, it should be an LZ4 3500 V6.

Or the LZE if it is "flex fuel."

 

Would it will be worth it to pick it up if it has the vvt system? Or just wait around till I find a 3900 if I decide to go that route.

 

That engine cover looks like an LX9 engine cover to me. Also does the LZ4 have an EGR? There's also no coolant fill seen at the right side of the picture next to the idler pulley, that would be present on an LZx engine.

 

Should I give the guy a call and go look at it? I'm sure if I offered him $200 cash he would probably take it. The LX9 wouldn't have the VVT right? Could someone take a little time and write up the basics for what I would need to do it drop in the LX9 if I bought it? I'm just looking ahead, some general information on the swap would be great. I know there are some write ups here and there but nothing very "in-depth" if you will.

 

my motor is coming out, its not an if anymore lol

 

Well I guess that settles that... lol

 

It would be worth a look at.

The most comprehensive write ups you will find will be posts here and on a couple other sites like 60degreev6.com. Everybody does it a little differently, especially where the mounts are concerned, some like solid mounts, some like rubber/soft mounts. Exhaust will be done differently in different applications, along with hose routing and engine control.

Your best way to approach this is know exactly what your intended use of the vehicle is and plan around that. I find far too many people for some reason believe they are building a race car that only ever sees the street, and use race car parts, but then wonder why they have failures and problems. Or why someone that spent far less then them on parts that fit the application makes more power or just simply gets better results than they do...

$200 would be a good price for an LX9, and is a good engine. If it turns out to be an LZ4, it could still be a good deal, if you want to go through the extra effort of using the LZx series of engine. If it is an LZ4, then you can get it all in the car and work out the bugs and when you need more power swap in the LZ9 directly, since all of the instalation bugs would have been worked out with an LZ4. Going from LX9 to LZ9 wouldn't be nearly as easy though. The LX9 is much more akin installation wise to the LA1 (3400).

 

yeah I know there is a lot of different ways to do it, and everyone has their own way of doing it. I haven't really looked to hard on 60degreeV6 so i will go take a more in depth look later. Thank you!

 

Still gotta connect the wires and set the timing. Also need to figure out how to route the belt. Put 2 o2 bungs in the downpipe. One for the narrowband and one for the Wideband. I thought it was a good idea since I drive the car so much that way I'm not relying on the Wideband simulated narrowband output.

 

nice job , dont forget about doing something to retian the vacum block on the back of the tb , also be prepared to retighten all ur coupler clamps a few times when u start driving it

the tb coupler will prolly be the biggest pain in the butt with it poping off , eventually on mine i just put 4 small tack welds around it and i never had issues again

belt goes on like nomral except u go from the top of the ps pulley under the tenisioner up over the alt

 

Yep haven't forgot about the throttle body yet, just haven't gotten around to it. I also need to figure out all the vaccum lines too, along with the boost controller, Wastegate, and blow off valve.

I'm really happy with how far I have got and how things are looking. For being 18 with basically no mechanical experience I haven't done a terrible job. I think it speaks to how easy this is with some good help and guidence. Just want to thank you guys, we are in the home stretch!

 

It started! More updates to follow tomorrow.

 

Major gas leak from my #5 injector... It seems like it is to far down into the intake. Did I skip something when I installed the injectors? Is there a spacer or something I overlooked?

 

prolly tore the oring when u installed it , is it leaking from the fuel rail side?

 

Yeah it is, I will take a look at it later today since I have class.

 

John! Made it back into the "fart can" section of the boards! Sweet setup you have going! Once you get it dialed in, post some vids!!

 

Hey man! Happy to see you made it over here. I sure will, maybe it will change your mind about the LS swap!

 

Glad it started!! Definitely recheck all the o rings on the injectors when you take them out. Use some lube when tossing them in and make sure the bosses on the intake that they go into are nice and clean. That aluminum can get sandy and crappy over time. Do your injectors allow you to toss on 2 o rings on the top? Mine allow 2 o rings so I have 3 o rings total on each injector. 3 years of using the 48lbs ones and many many times of dissasambly and never a leak. The key is just lubing them up very very well before installation including the bosses themselves.

So how bad was the tune i sent ya? At least it started.... I take it you literly only got to start it up and then saw the leak and shut it off? So no cam break in period.

One thing I always do is prime the fuel pump at least 3 or 4 times before I start the car after I installed the injectors. You will have 43psi give or take at the top of those injectors when you prime the fuel pump. So if you can do that and have no leaks chances are it will be sealed up. This does nothing to test the bottom of the injector but if you have a leak down there you'll know it as well from the signs of gas and the fact that you will have a vacuum leak.

Milan race(1st points race) on may the 1st. You should stop up or I can come over before that maybe even this weekend if possible for some tuning? Facebook me and let me know.

 

At this rate, I'm going to need all the help I can get.

I greased up the old o-rings from the old injectors and put them in the bottom of the base. No more leaks!

I started the car up and datalogged it. The idle climbs higher and higher.

TPS was set at 0%, then as soon as it started up it jumped to 28% and climbing. Shut it off and it was back down to 0% with accessory on.

Also the knock count jumped to 4000??? Is my sensor bad?

 

Pay attention to the knock retard.. it's in degrees. The knock count is about worthless I think, at least on the 59 mask.

Did you break in the cam? Hopefully you did. Don't run that puppy under say 2k rpm unless you already broke it in. Delta cams usually give instructions for their rpm they wana see and how long.

You saying the Tps singal is going up on its own? What was the Tps signal voltage? Better yet just send me a data log to my email.

 

stop by my house too and help me get mine running please lol

 

I'll send you it in an email mark, going to right now. IIRC the knock retard was still at 0, so that is good.

No I didn't break in the cam because the RPM's kept rising up to 3500 when I shut it off.

 

Hopefully you get this figured out soon. My mind being swayed is counting on you. I really wish I could help but tuning is something I have yet to delve into.

-Jim

 

We will work this out together. Seems as if he has a lot of sensors that either aren't hooked up or a malfunctioning or a wiring problem. It is no big deal though it will be fine this happens when you take a motor out put it back in sometimes LOL

 

Haha this is my first "real" project, gotta learn somehow!

 

We have all been there at one time buddy.

 

I don't know why I didn't think of this sooner, but to get through the cam break in phase, disconnect the IAC and just use the throttle to control RPM. That is as long as it's the IAC opening up causing the run away RPMs.

Once the cam is broken in, then you can solve the run away revving issue.