One thing to note is that Crane changed the cam line's name to PowerMax from Compucam.

I installed the 2030 and Comps' 1.52 lifters and new Crane springs on a newly rebuilt 3.1L, out of a 91 Firebird. I am getting a slight lope and when the engine warms up and the idle is allowed to decrease to about 500rpm the engine wants to die ( SES light will come on, until idle is bumped up ). I set the idle up to about 900rpm when in gear, but the flip side of that is the idle is up to 1500rpm when out of gear (ie., Park or Neutral ).

The thing that is sort of annoying, though, is at part throttle ( a slight pressing of the petal ) when the RPM of the engine is between 1200 and 2100 the engine develops quit a bit of vibration ( the kind that you get went the engine goes lean ), but the vibration goes away when I apply more throttle. This makes overdrive more or less useless unless traveling more that 75mph, and 45 to 55 mph while in drive a bad spot.

Is there a way to fix this? ( Probably requires a custom chip, yes? )

I'm still using the stock chip ( or at least the chip that was there when I got the car ). I have not used a lower temp thermostat and have not replaced the stock air filter cannister with the K&N cone filter ( I have one though; just not made a different air tube yet ). I rebuilt the distributor and used the Accel control module and am using a MSD Blaster 3 coil.

KeithM

On a side note: the main reason that prompted me to do a complete engine rebuild was it did not pass DEQ and it was leaking oil like a sieve ( blowby and both oil seals bad ).

 

Did you seat the cam in properly by running the car at 2500 RPM for 20-25 minutes after installing the Cam? And did you install a new Timing Chain?( I think the rebuild would cover that, but just making sure)

Second... That Cam does not require any Computer modification. If I were you I would call Crane, and ask them what is wrong with there product? Why is it not working for you.

Correct me if I am wrong, but I was told you must take it for a staright drive of an hour or more for the computer to "adjust" to its new componets. Did you take it for a Complete hour of driving after you did this?

Thats all I can come up with...

 

I did replace the timing chain with a roller timing chain. ( not the Cloyes but from GM ) but I used the standard camshaft timing alignment not the 4* retard or advanced. Ignition is set to 10* advanced.

I did drive 100 miles straight without pushing the engine... break-in as the manual suggested.

It might be possible that I reconnected some vacuum lines up wrong. The manual did not give a very helpful diagram. All vacuum lines are connected, though ( maybe just not in the right place ).

The brake booster was the easy one.

On my vehicle ( 91 Firebird ) there is the MAP line, a vacuum line to a small ball canister under the driver side headlight, a vacuum port on the coolant shutoff valve for the heater core, the purge canister, the air pump, and the fuel pressure regulator.

KeithM

 

Good, just making sure.

I do not know where all the Vacuum lines run so I will bump this back too the top. But if no one replies go to a junk yard and take a pic of a car with the vacuum lines on it.

Guys, does someone have a good pic of Vacuum lines for Keiths car!

 

I would re check to make sure everything is connected correctly and that you have no vacuum leaks. I had to re adjust my idle speed to keep my car from dying when I installed the 2030. There is a particular way you have to do this, I think you disconnect the IAC and plug the diagnostic port, but be sure and read through a haynes manual because it gives you the procedure. After you reset this check this read adjust the TPS. You might need to widen the screw holes oin the TPS sensor with a drill to get it to move around enough, so you can get the voltage dead on.

and the stock chip works fine. peace.

 

KeithM, what does "DEQ" stand for?

I believe your TPS is self-adjusting; I don't think you need to touch it.

Try cleaning your IAC motor's pintle and the IAC passageway in the throttlebody. Search for "IAC" and "passageway" and you'll find my notes. If you never cleaned these parts before, you'll find gunk on 'em, and if the passageway gets clogged, the car will stall at idle.

You said the SES light comes on... did you pull the error code from the computer?

 

DEQ stands for "Department of Environmental Quality"; the car emissions tester...

I did clean the IAC passageways and now the idle works even though I still had to bump it up a bit...

Also the abnormal vibrations at those certain RPMs and throttle positions are lessoning so maybe the computer is adjusting to the different cam...

KeithM

 

Did you have to run it through the new dyno emissions test? We have that in NJ, and I was wondering if the 2030 cam would pass the IM/240. The specs look like it would, but I'd hate to fail...

 

I coldnt get my caro pass emissons with the 2030 cam, My hydrocarbons were .9 when they only allowed .8 What realy made me mad was that Illinois just lowered the standards right before was tested, the old standard allowed .12 on hydrocarbons, so if I tested on this standard I would have EASILY passed. They also check for other gasses to, but I never had a problem with them.