Cracked engine block...
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Slovenia
Posts: 28
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: Camaro rs 1991, BMW e39, F11
Engine: V6 3.1
Transmission: 5 speed manual
Axle/Gears: Stock
Cracked engine block...
Hello,
I`m in the middle of 91` Camaro v6 3.1 rebuild and I just discovered something that looks like crack in engine block. I think that I should get engine x rayed, but I could use your opinions.
Car has 200k miles, I know nothing about the past of this car, I bought it and drove it for a week before taking it apart. It always fired right up (even after 2 months of not running at all), it smokes a bit (white) on cold start, but I think this is due to moisture in exhaust, because I started it every few days, always in cold weather. Coolant temp was always ok. Coolant and oil levels remained the same. Engine is generally running good.
I can`t confirm leakage from the crack due to really bad leakage from valve covers.
I took some pictures and videos.
Area around the crack looks silver because I cleaned it with wire brush wheel.
I grinded a little bit to see how it will look deeper, but the crack remains..
This is right bellow the engine head, area where I grinded is where head bolt is.
Could this be factory casting defect?
Also if crack is not too deep could it be fixed by grinding it down and filling the hole with liquid metal?
Thank you all for help
I`m in the middle of 91` Camaro v6 3.1 rebuild and I just discovered something that looks like crack in engine block. I think that I should get engine x rayed, but I could use your opinions.
Car has 200k miles, I know nothing about the past of this car, I bought it and drove it for a week before taking it apart. It always fired right up (even after 2 months of not running at all), it smokes a bit (white) on cold start, but I think this is due to moisture in exhaust, because I started it every few days, always in cold weather. Coolant temp was always ok. Coolant and oil levels remained the same. Engine is generally running good.
I can`t confirm leakage from the crack due to really bad leakage from valve covers.
I took some pictures and videos.
Area around the crack looks silver because I cleaned it with wire brush wheel.
I grinded a little bit to see how it will look deeper, but the crack remains..
This is right bellow the engine head, area where I grinded is where head bolt is.
Could this be factory casting defect?
Also if crack is not too deep could it be fixed by grinding it down and filling the hole with liquid metal?
Thank you all for help
#2
Supreme Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,010
Received 408 Likes
on
295 Posts
Car: 1986 IROC Z
Engine: 5.0 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Posi
Re: Cracked engine block...
It appears to be a crack in your block. Either borrow a cooling system pressure tester or take the car to someone who has one, and get it checked. Look to see if coolant seeps out when under normal operating temperature and cooling system pressure.
There's no 'practical' (read, inexpensive) way to repair a cracked block; methods used to salvage high-dollar, 'matching numbers' damaged blocks for collector cars are very expensive since they require a large amount of skill to make a successful repair. If your engine is cracked, just get a replacement. You might even consider swapping-in a V8.
There's no 'practical' (read, inexpensive) way to repair a cracked block; methods used to salvage high-dollar, 'matching numbers' damaged blocks for collector cars are very expensive since they require a large amount of skill to make a successful repair. If your engine is cracked, just get a replacement. You might even consider swapping-in a V8.
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Slovenia
Posts: 28
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: Camaro rs 1991, BMW e39, F11
Engine: V6 3.1
Transmission: 5 speed manual
Axle/Gears: Stock
Re: Cracked engine block...
It appears to be a crack in your block. Either borrow a cooling system pressure tester or take the car to someone who has one, and get it checked. Look to see if coolant seeps out when under normal operating temperature and cooling system pressure.
There's no 'practical' (read, inexpensive) way to repair a cracked block; methods used to salvage high-dollar, 'matching numbers' damaged blocks for collector cars are very expensive since they require a large amount of skill to make a successful repair. If your engine is cracked, just get a replacement. You might even consider swapping-in a V8.
There's no 'practical' (read, inexpensive) way to repair a cracked block; methods used to salvage high-dollar, 'matching numbers' damaged blocks for collector cars are very expensive since they require a large amount of skill to make a successful repair. If your engine is cracked, just get a replacement. You might even consider swapping-in a V8.
#4
Supreme Member
Re: Cracked engine block...
Looks like a freeze crack from straight water used as coolant in winter-low stress area,so should be able to weld up with special welding rod meant for cast iron or use nickel rod-vee out the repair area and pre-heat/post heat for best results.
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Slovenia
Posts: 28
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: Camaro rs 1991, BMW e39, F11
Engine: V6 3.1
Transmission: 5 speed manual
Axle/Gears: Stock
Re: Cracked engine block...
I`m not changing the pistons, the compression is good. For now I will try with liquid metal (I bought some that you can use on engine blocks), so I don`t have to pull the heads. Will report back after a while if it holds.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Denis.V
Tech / General Engine
2
03-01-2011 03:24 PM
1985WS6transam
Tech / General Engine
12
04-28-2008 03:32 PM
1989CamaroRs
Tech / General Engine
4
01-30-2001 09:15 PM