Put the dremel on my plenum today !
01-12-2002, 05:32 PM
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Put the dremel on my plenum today !
I was bored today so I put a grinding piece on my dremel and took the top coat of metal of the plenum off (OUTSIDE OF THE PLENUM, did not take anything off) . I set it on 5 thousand rpms .It's shiney . 
Well , not realy shiney , more than it was .Ok , this is prabably a stupid question , but this thing wont rust if I leave it like this huh ? I dont think it will but just making sure .Was that a certain type of paint on the top of that metal or what ? I know it looks better than it did before .I did half of of it today , tomorrow Im going to do the other half .
Well , not realy shiney , more than it was .Ok , this is prabably a stupid question , but this thing wont rust if I leave it like this huh ? I dont think it will but just making sure .Was that a certain type of paint on the top of that metal or what ? I know it looks better than it did before .I did half of of it today , tomorrow Im going to do the other half . 
01-12-2002, 05:53 PM
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Car: 13 Ram 1500/ 78 Formy
Engine: 5.7 / 7.4
Transmission: 6sp / TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.55 posi / 3.23
No rust, is aluminum. It'll look a whole lot better & faster if you put it to a bench grinder w/wire wheel. I've done this to my upper lenum & what little I can get at on the middle. Will get a wire wheel for the drill & finish up. Or , have it hot tanked /cleaned on the inside & have it chromed.
01-12-2002, 06:22 PM
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Wayne, there is CLEAR paint that you can spray over your finished work. NOW, how good a coating it makes, is a different matter.
Engines heat up & cool.
That's hard on paint.
Look at a local car shop for clear paint for engines.
You may score.
BUT you can always go to www.eastwoodcompany.com for the stuff & order it there.
The wire bruch on a stand will be q uicker result job. BUT, it's kinda fun, isn't it?
Me?
I like media blasting the aluminum surface. Works quicker and I like the effect.
BUT, the aluminum Finned OIL PAN for my Small Block Chevy, I polished that! That's looks SO NICE. I also did the same to my Aluminum Finned Valve covers from my 1974 Corvette & also a set of covers for the small block that also has that finned oil pan.
I like shiny aluminum parts under a hood.
Engines heat up & cool.
That's hard on paint.
Look at a local car shop for clear paint for engines.
You may score.
BUT you can always go to www.eastwoodcompany.com for the stuff & order it there.
The wire bruch on a stand will be q uicker result job. BUT, it's kinda fun, isn't it?
Me?
I like media blasting the aluminum surface. Works quicker and I like the effect.
BUT, the aluminum Finned OIL PAN for my Small Block Chevy, I polished that! That's looks SO NICE. I also did the same to my Aluminum Finned Valve covers from my 1974 Corvette & also a set of covers for the small block that also has that finned oil pan.
I like shiny aluminum parts under a hood.
01-12-2002, 06:32 PM
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Karl , yeah it is fun man ! 
..I was thinking while I was doing it , there has got to be a faster way .Nah , does not matter if there is , Im having fun ! Going to look real good when I finish it with my Accel 8mm wires runing around it I finally got those wires made Karl , and put them on the car ! Used a plugwire crimper/stripper tool .Great little tool to have !
..........that little 2.8 mpfi badge in the middle of the plenum thats a circle , Can I just lightly pry on that thing with a screwdriver to get it out .I wanna take it out and work on it separate .I dont wanan grind it to much and take off the 2.8 mpfi .Might not even grind it , might just clean it real good !
..I was thinking while I was doing it , there has got to be a faster way .Nah , does not matter if there is , Im having fun ! Going to look real good when I finish it with my Accel 8mm wires runing around it I finally got those wires made Karl , and put them on the car ! Used a plugwire crimper/stripper tool .Great little tool to have ! ..........that little 2.8 mpfi badge in the middle of the plenum thats a circle , Can I just lightly pry on that thing with a screwdriver to get it out .I wanna take it out and work on it separate .I dont wanan grind it to much and take off the 2.8 mpfi .Might not even grind it , might just clean it real good ! Trending Topics
01-12-2002, 11:23 PM
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Car: 85 Camaro SC
Engine: V6
Transmission: 700r4
Why not make your own emblem?I love this pic of my plenum before it oxidized 
now it looks like it has barnicals growing on it.So when I take my alt,plenum,throttle body and the gun off and re polish them I will put some of that engine clear coat over everything.
now it looks like it has barnicals growing on it.So when I take my alt,plenum,throttle body and the gun off and re polish them I will put some of that engine clear coat over everything.
01-12-2002, 11:42 PM
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thats exactly what i want to do! pollish the plennum, what do you do about gaskets? you have any methods to go about pollishing that?
you did take it off right?
you did take it off right?
01-13-2002, 12:18 AM
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Yes you can take a screwdriver to the emblem to pry it off... be careful though, the glue is strong and it's very likely that the emblem will have a little bit of "pry marks" from where you took the screwdriver to it...
To get the glue off... soak the emblem in water over night, in the morning just kinda slid it off... the black paint will come off as well, but will take a little persuation with a toothbrush...
I havn't really devised a way to get the glue off the plenum it'self, but I suppose you could scrape most of it off and then wire the rest...
To put it back on... get some hardening gasket glue type stuff, and then some "make your own" gasket material... the thick stuff... like 1/16in and then cut a circle of it out, glue that onto the back of the emblem and then glue the whole thing to the plenum...
I know this works because my emblem is off right now.. I too have just started work on my spare plenum/intake/base setup...
Hope this helps...
To get the glue off... soak the emblem in water over night, in the morning just kinda slid it off... the black paint will come off as well, but will take a little persuation with a toothbrush...
I havn't really devised a way to get the glue off the plenum it'self, but I suppose you could scrape most of it off and then wire the rest...
To put it back on... get some hardening gasket glue type stuff, and then some "make your own" gasket material... the thick stuff... like 1/16in and then cut a circle of it out, glue that onto the back of the emblem and then glue the whole thing to the plenum...
I know this works because my emblem is off right now.. I too have just started work on my spare plenum/intake/base setup...
Hope this helps...
01-13-2002, 02:04 PM
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Hi Wayne.
Media blasting.
IT's SANDBLASTING, EXCEPT using TINY TINY cut glass crystals to "blast the surface clean", remove all paint.
For me, I have to scuff sand my stuff to be cleaned, wash off almost 99% of any grease, to be allowed to use my friends media blasting cabinet.
IF I CONTAMINATE IT, I can't use the cabinet.
This works well, as I have less stuff to remove while cleaning at cabinet AND the glass crystals last many times, longer, due to better recycling. The crystals gind are used up (not effective) when they become dust in the cabinet.
Check out an issue of Hemmings to see a Media Blasting cabinet.
Also go to that Eastwood site I offered.
They should have a pic.
But, it is sand blasting, using something else.
SOME places, also use Baking Soda, as a cutting agent on metals.
Yep, that stuff you know about Arm & Hammer.
Some places also use broken Walnut shells, too.
Help out?
Once you do blast clean the surface, yes oxidation does occur. The paint can SOMETIMES work.
It all depends on surface prep.
Just like painting a car.
Me?
I like to wash the stuff in soap & water, rinse several times, then let the sun bake dry. Then paint while sun baked hot. Let it cure OVERNIGHT, then let it get heated up by sun, again. By Sunset, 24 hours later, the paint has hardened/cured. Expansion (heat) & shrinkage (cool night), seals the paint.
Right now I have lots of stuff I found back east, in the woods, that I am going to sell. It's stuff from a Chevy 6 cylinder, circa the 50's. It's 1953 & 54 Corvette stuff to others! Time to visit the media blaster!
Media blasting.
IT's SANDBLASTING, EXCEPT using TINY TINY cut glass crystals to "blast the surface clean", remove all paint.
For me, I have to scuff sand my stuff to be cleaned, wash off almost 99% of any grease, to be allowed to use my friends media blasting cabinet.
IF I CONTAMINATE IT, I can't use the cabinet.
This works well, as I have less stuff to remove while cleaning at cabinet AND the glass crystals last many times, longer, due to better recycling. The crystals gind are used up (not effective) when they become dust in the cabinet.
Check out an issue of Hemmings to see a Media Blasting cabinet.
Also go to that Eastwood site I offered.
They should have a pic.
But, it is sand blasting, using something else.
SOME places, also use Baking Soda, as a cutting agent on metals.
Yep, that stuff you know about Arm & Hammer.
Some places also use broken Walnut shells, too.
Help out?
Once you do blast clean the surface, yes oxidation does occur. The paint can SOMETIMES work.
It all depends on surface prep.
Just like painting a car.
Me?
I like to wash the stuff in soap & water, rinse several times, then let the sun bake dry. Then paint while sun baked hot. Let it cure OVERNIGHT, then let it get heated up by sun, again. By Sunset, 24 hours later, the paint has hardened/cured. Expansion (heat) & shrinkage (cool night), seals the paint.
Right now I have lots of stuff I found back east, in the woods, that I am going to sell. It's stuff from a Chevy 6 cylinder, circa the 50's. It's 1953 & 54 Corvette stuff to others! Time to visit the media blaster!
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