I did a clumsy job of bypassing VATS and key ignition cylinder; and installed a hidden IGN/ACC/kill toggle switch and a dash mounted momentary starter switch, but the keep burning up on me. I've amped up the switch to the highest rating available at the parts store, (30A, I think) and it lasted longer, but eventually it fried, as well.

Any suggestions for an electrical novice on something I missed, or failed to add or delete? Relay, wire gauge, fuse splitter...?

TIA

 

You weren't clear as to which switch is burning up, the toggle your using for a master power switch, or the pushbutton for the starter solenoid.....

 

My bad. The momentary switch fires off just fine when needed. It's the master power switch, which stays on, that keeps getting fried. Some last longer than others.

 

OK, now we're gettin somewhere......

If you are running ALL of the car's switched loads through that one switch, your never gonna find a single toggle that's gonna stand up to that load*. Remember that your factory ignition switch had two separate power feeds (the two fat red wires) and had multiple, independent switch sections switching the various loads. Think about all the stuff that works from the key; ignition system, fuel injection, wipers, HVAC, and that's just off the top of my head, I'm sure there are others, , (radio, power windows, etc) but you get the idea. That's why your switch is frying, It's tellin ya that if your gonna continue with the toggle switch idea, your gonna have to split it up with a few toggles, each handling a particular function (one for the engine, one for the HVAC, and so on). Personally I'd fix the proper ignition, but I ain't judging, if you've got a particular thing for just HAVING to have toggles at least now you know what ya got to do. You could get fancy and have toggles controlling relays, this would need some heavy duty relays, but for now separate 30A switches for all of the major functions will solve your issue.


* Unless, of course, ya wanna go gettin all Frankenstein on it....