Good *** my car runs bad! I replaced the spark plugs and the O2 sensor and now my car barely runs at idle. I used to have a miss between 45 and 50 at 3/4ths to WOT, which is now gone, but now it barely idles, sputters, almost dies (and did once) until I floor it. At WOT the SES light turns off and the car flies. It has all its power back as long as I floor it. It smokes when I flat out rev it and also sputters in the low RPMs when I floor it. The smoke is black and smells like gas.
I am getting the error codes 13, 32, 33, 35, and 44. Most basically tell me I am running lean, so I guess I should look for a vaccume leak? Any other suggestions? Anything is helpful, including something dumb like the plug wires aren't all the way on or something.
This is all on a 1990 Firebird, V-6 AT.
Thanks,
Douglas

 

yeah, check for vaccum leaks, were the plug wire put back in right order (no 2 wirechanges end up in same order ) did you change fuel filter too? how's the fuel pressure?

Be prepared for TomP and his full tuneup post :nono:

 

Fuel filter has been replaced, fuel pressure is fine last I checked. Plug wires are in the correct order, because I did them one at a time.

 

how's the timing/timing chain?

 

I belive a code 32 is your EGR valve. Check it make sure it moves freely. If not take it off and clean it. I amsuming you have a 2.8L if you have the 3.1L the good booK (chilton's) says that it is not servicable. An EGR failur can cause stumbling and stalls.

Other then that I would check your timing and your #1 spark plug wire. If the 2.8L is setup just like the 3.1L it is a major PITA to get the correct presure on the wire in order to seat it on the plug all the way. Lightly tug on the wire if it comes off it's not on all the way. I spent 20 min. alone trying to fit my large *** hands in that little hole that is provide in the Alternator bracket trying to get the #1 wire on corectly.

 

block your egr vaccum line and make sure no vaccum leaks. Ill second that egr diaphram check (push on it with your fingers). If the car runs right with egr disconnected (maybe slightl detonation) then your egr is probably to blame

 

Thanks for your help guys. I actually figured it out today. Apparently it was really cold when I worked on my car and those small plastic tubes are really brittle, because I snapped two of them. One happened to be my MAP sensor (at least as far as I could tell). Once I spliced those tubes back together it ran beautifully... well, kinda, still pulls some of the same stuff, but it is running a hell of a lot better!

 

I just looked up the '90s have the 3.1L (please corect me is I am wrong). I Would defeinetly check your #1 plug wire to ensure that it is completly on. It will proboly clear the rest up for you.

 

I believe the #1 plug is the problem, being it is a total PITA and therfor when I changed the plugs and it was miserable out I actually didn't change that one.

 

If you want to change it here is what I do.

To get the wire off with out destroying it I use a spark plug wire puller that I found at the parts store for $5. It looks like a pair of pliars with a 45* bend. It can slip right into the hole in the alternator bracket. grab hold of the boot with puller and the trick is to first push and twist a little. Now pull, but make sure you are pulling towards the strut tower. Not strait out. The plug it's self is angled in the direction of the strut tower. If you try and pull it strait out you end up pulling it an agle that will rip the wire off and leave the conector on the plug. If that happens just use a pair of nedle nose pliars to pull the conector off. For geting the plug out I use a ratchet with a swil head and a long extension to make short work of it.

The first tim I had to change plugs on this car it took me 2 hours. once I got the proper tools and figured out ware my hands should be I can do all of them in 20 min, 10 for the first five and 10min for that #1 plug.

At some point you should do it. It will only get worse over time.

 

LOL, Project2.8!

What gap did you set the spark plugs to?

Did you make the wires yourself or did you buy a pre-made set? Did you check the resistance of the wires (to make sure one isn't far out of spec compared to the others)?

I'd also suggest clearing the codes by disconnecting the negative cable for a bit (theory says it'll wipe the codes after a few seconds, I like to leave it off for a minute or three). That way you can tell if a "new" code surfaces by itself. Your code 33 should be wiped since you fixed the MAP vacuum lines.