Paging KED85
Paging KED85
Hey man,
I am looking at the accel super coil and the AC Delco coil. Its a 2.8 MPI motor.
What one is better and can I put the accell in the stock location? I notice that it says remote mount but did not know if you can still mount it there, also if it is remote mount how much work will be involved in it. Are both of the coils about the same performance wise.
So far I have new cap and rotor, wires, fuel filter, NGK plugs on the way, rear seats pulled, A/C pulled and smog pulled, no ground effects. Also the spare tire and jack is pulled at the track. The engine runs perfect along with the 700r4 and I am shooting for low 17's in the quarter and I am hopeing for a cowl hood this summer. I also have a buddy with a IROC rear end (I dont know what gears is has yet but I think its a 305 motor) should I put it in or keep the gears and rear end from the 2.8?
Thanks man
David
I am looking at the accel super coil and the AC Delco coil. Its a 2.8 MPI motor.
What one is better and can I put the accell in the stock location? I notice that it says remote mount but did not know if you can still mount it there, also if it is remote mount how much work will be involved in it. Are both of the coils about the same performance wise.
So far I have new cap and rotor, wires, fuel filter, NGK plugs on the way, rear seats pulled, A/C pulled and smog pulled, no ground effects. Also the spare tire and jack is pulled at the track. The engine runs perfect along with the 700r4 and I am shooting for low 17's in the quarter and I am hopeing for a cowl hood this summer. I also have a buddy with a IROC rear end (I dont know what gears is has yet but I think its a 305 motor) should I put it in or keep the gears and rear end from the 2.8?
Thanks man
David
Last edited by 86camarodriver; Feb 20, 2002 at 02:34 AM.
Alright, how much should I charge him per answer!!!
Simple.
ANY coil will work.
One better than the other?
I prefer the Accel.
I liked the subtle difference I felt.
YET, I WAS going from a worn old GM factory coil to new Hi PO (or SO the wording said!!). Yet, when I swapped, the diff was subtle.
Smoother idle and stronger feel in the revs.
I made it remote, I do not like the "stock" location.
I made a simple "L" bracket outta aluminum (THICK about 1/4"-wide 1/2" or so) and bolted it to windshield cowl area, let it hang down by firewall, coil wire exiting downward. It's besides the distb. I also had an Accel, mounted on the firewall at distb.
I felt I had a problem with the coil (TomP was correct! I didn't-faulty ignition modular problem), got the "other" coil for the F-Body, mounted it as I described.
I could have gotten a MSD factory coil. Accel was less & I have 20 years of great luck with Accel stuff. I got it at Kragen.
How much work? All it took was finding the right material to use to hang it where I chose to. And good sharp drills. Rest was childs play simple.
You removed that much weight?
How does the car feel?
Simple.
ANY coil will work.
One better than the other?
I prefer the Accel.
I liked the subtle difference I felt.
YET, I WAS going from a worn old GM factory coil to new Hi PO (or SO the wording said!!). Yet, when I swapped, the diff was subtle.
Smoother idle and stronger feel in the revs.
I made it remote, I do not like the "stock" location.
I made a simple "L" bracket outta aluminum (THICK about 1/4"-wide 1/2" or so) and bolted it to windshield cowl area, let it hang down by firewall, coil wire exiting downward. It's besides the distb. I also had an Accel, mounted on the firewall at distb.
I felt I had a problem with the coil (TomP was correct! I didn't-faulty ignition modular problem), got the "other" coil for the F-Body, mounted it as I described.
I could have gotten a MSD factory coil. Accel was less & I have 20 years of great luck with Accel stuff. I got it at Kragen.
How much work? All it took was finding the right material to use to hang it where I chose to. And good sharp drills. Rest was childs play simple.
You removed that much weight?
How does the car feel?
But I can put it back in the stock location???
I have to be carefull in the corners because there is less weight in the back but with that at all the A/C stuff gone I can feel a difference in power not a whole lot but a little.
David
I have to be carefull in the corners because there is less weight in the back but with that at all the A/C stuff gone I can feel a difference in power not a whole lot but a little.
David
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 13,414
Likes: 6
From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
You could've gotten that coil much faster & maybe cheaper from summitracing.com ... it takes them two days to get an order to me in Jersey.
I'd say keep the rear axle you have now. I don't think the late model IROCs had 3.42 gears. They might have posi, but the 3.42 gears will help you out more. If you stumble across an '84 Trans Am, with engine code "G" (8th VIN digit), and a manual transmission, grab that axle! It's a 3.73/posi/disc; and I put one under my car a year or so ago.
[edit] And Hey, Wait! You said the car runs perfectly?? Why put another stock coil in it?? I could see if your car isn't running, and you think the coil's bad, but why waste the cash for stock coil when you can get a higher voltage spark out of an aftermarket one?? I did a back-to-back test between my old GM coil and my Accel remote coil- the Accel coil gave me more power at higher RPM's than the GM one. Since you and I have 2.8's, the 2.8 makes its power higher in the RPM band than a 3.1, so we need that high-rpm grunt.
Summit's part # for the Accel coil is ACC-140011 for $39.95. The part # for the MSD direct replacement is MSD-8226 for $38.95. (Summit "had it out" with Mr Gasket Company a while ago, that's why their prices are usually higher on Accel & other Mr Gasket products.) The part # for the MSD Blaster SS coil is MSD-8207 for $34.95.
Don't "settle" for a stock coil just because the dealer has them behind the counter! You won't go any faster.
I'd say keep the rear axle you have now. I don't think the late model IROCs had 3.42 gears. They might have posi, but the 3.42 gears will help you out more. If you stumble across an '84 Trans Am, with engine code "G" (8th VIN digit), and a manual transmission, grab that axle! It's a 3.73/posi/disc; and I put one under my car a year or so ago.
[edit] And Hey, Wait! You said the car runs perfectly?? Why put another stock coil in it?? I could see if your car isn't running, and you think the coil's bad, but why waste the cash for stock coil when you can get a higher voltage spark out of an aftermarket one?? I did a back-to-back test between my old GM coil and my Accel remote coil- the Accel coil gave me more power at higher RPM's than the GM one. Since you and I have 2.8's, the 2.8 makes its power higher in the RPM band than a 3.1, so we need that high-rpm grunt.
Summit's part # for the Accel coil is ACC-140011 for $39.95. The part # for the MSD direct replacement is MSD-8226 for $38.95. (Summit "had it out" with Mr Gasket Company a while ago, that's why their prices are usually higher on Accel & other Mr Gasket products.) The part # for the MSD Blaster SS coil is MSD-8207 for $34.95.
Don't "settle" for a stock coil just because the dealer has them behind the counter! You won't go any faster.
Last edited by TomP; Feb 20, 2002 at 01:44 PM.
Well I allready orderd the AC Delco so I guess it sucks to be me 
the car runs great accept for the idle as a little rough and I have replaced all the other ignition stuff and the coil is falling apart.
Will the AC delco give me more power then stock?
I wish I could cancel the order from advance auto parts
David

the car runs great accept for the idle as a little rough and I have replaced all the other ignition stuff and the coil is falling apart.
Will the AC delco give me more power then stock?
I wish I could cancel the order from advance auto parts
David
Trending Topics
Tom what about this
This is a stock rearend out of my 85' trans am. It is a borg warner 9 bolt. Complete with brakes. $150
E-mail me at fastta82@yahoo.com for more info.
This is a stock rearend out of my 85' trans am. It is a borg warner 9 bolt. Complete with brakes. $150
E-mail me at fastta82@yahoo.com for more info.
Sir I have only one thing to say
:hail: :hail: :hail: :hail: :hail: :hail: :hail:
I like to save money I mean if I can save 10 bucks then thats ten bucks in my pokcet.
But I drained my windsheild fuid container and pulled it off to find a three inch round rusted out hole
How much does it cost on average to get my intake ported?
David
:hail: :hail: :hail: :hail: :hail: :hail: :hail:
I like to save money I mean if I can save 10 bucks then thats ten bucks in my pokcet.
But I drained my windsheild fuid container and pulled it off to find a three inch round rusted out hole
How much does it cost on average to get my intake ported?
David
IF you have the parts to port (grinder, long shank deburr) nothing but labor.
Yours.
IF you are missing a few items, add that to the cost.
BUT the tools can run ya about $150-ish.
Labor is about $45/hr. Figure 5 hours.
Yours.
IF you are missing a few items, add that to the cost.
BUT the tools can run ya about $150-ish.
Labor is about $45/hr. Figure 5 hours.
By the way with the mods in my profile what do you think I will run in the quarter mile? I also do not have any ground effects. The engine and tranny both run strong and I do not have traction problems off the line, Also when I floor it I shift at like 5500 RPM is this good or bad?
Thanks
David
P.S. My goal is to go as fast as possibe N/A and a internally stock engine for now.
:hail:
Thanks
David
P.S. My goal is to go as fast as possibe N/A and a internally stock engine for now.
:hail:
Last edited by 86camarodriver; Feb 20, 2002 at 09:23 PM.
I will be at the track all day and it is only open to the club with 20 cars or so so I will get a FEW runs in LOL
I was thinking the same numbers also.
David
I dont think high 16 low 17 is that bad for my set up and engine size.
I was thinking the same numbers also.
David
I dont think high 16 low 17 is that bad for my set up and engine size.
Last edited by 86camarodriver; Feb 21, 2002 at 12:03 AM.
Know what's better?
Racing for the first time & taking First Place!
I did that in my 1966 Corvette, Gymkahana event.
Second time, I was second, by .6 seconds!!!!
Both times, I drove home.
That's a great time racing.
Driving home under own power!
Racing for the first time & taking First Place!
I did that in my 1966 Corvette, Gymkahana event.
Second time, I was second, by .6 seconds!!!!
Both times, I drove home.
That's a great time racing.
Driving home under own power!
Well one guy is runing low 15's in his 200 camaro 3.8. So I dont think I will beat him lol but I am racing a few stock 3.4's so who knows but a lot of the guys are in the low 12's with lt1's and ls1's so I doubt I will win LOL. Yea a few guy that are not in the club could not drive home either line lock kicked in half way donw the track or the lost a engine lol
How much of a power difference is there with a ported intake?
Also when I floor it it shifts at like 5500 RPM is this normal or bad?
How much of a power difference is there with a ported intake?
Also when I floor it it shifts at like 5500 RPM is this normal or bad?
Last edited by 86camarodriver; Feb 21, 2002 at 12:13 AM.
What will my quater be after I port the intake? Also do you know of anything I can do that will help me out engine wise that wont cost me anything and that will give me more power?
thanks
David
:hail: KED85
thanks
David
:hail: KED85
I only have some good street smarts.
AND I'M LAZY!!
Figure it out YOU were smart enough to put your ride on a major diet!
Some REAL RACERS even go on a DIET to loose more car racing weight!!
Free fixes?
Keep asking.
Usually getting more air into the air inlet, while moving is a primo choice.
So is strong ignition system.
I dunno, as you have pretty much done the "Free" faster stuff (removing the weight).
About the only thing left, is finding out the condition of your engine (compression, timing chain stretch, making sure all vacuum hoses are correct & leak free).
ONE tip is detatching the FRONT sway bar, for more weight transfer. ONLY detatch at the a-arm area. Then re-attach for the drive home.
That last steps lets you know how much fun you can have or maybe how long car'll last!
Others?
Start stepping up to the plate and pass the tips!
Now if you wanna :hail: , let's await when I get word the 3.4 swap boogie article was accepted as a tech thread by Dirk!
AND I'M LAZY!!
Figure it out YOU were smart enough to put your ride on a major diet!
Some REAL RACERS even go on a DIET to loose more car racing weight!!
Free fixes?
Keep asking.
Usually getting more air into the air inlet, while moving is a primo choice.
So is strong ignition system.
I dunno, as you have pretty much done the "Free" faster stuff (removing the weight).
About the only thing left, is finding out the condition of your engine (compression, timing chain stretch, making sure all vacuum hoses are correct & leak free).
ONE tip is detatching the FRONT sway bar, for more weight transfer. ONLY detatch at the a-arm area. Then re-attach for the drive home.
That last steps lets you know how much fun you can have or maybe how long car'll last!
Others?
Start stepping up to the plate and pass the tips!
Now if you wanna :hail: , let's await when I get word the 3.4 swap boogie article was accepted as a tech thread by Dirk!
I hope you get that article in the tex section. I have it saved on my computer. i may right a tech article on weight reduction.... I dunoo maybe LOL.
If you go and do all that weight redution BE CARFULL in the corners lol.
David
If you go and do all that weight redution BE CARFULL in the corners lol.
David
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