Well, my rear-main seal is leaking... I'm -not- going to replace it, nor am I going to swap in a 3.4... seeing as how my tranny is shot anyway it would not be worth it.

My mechanic recommended an oil additive called "Silo" (thats how it's phoenetically spelled anyway) and it is supposed to soften the seal so it stops leaking, he says he's used it with good success in the pass...

Now knowing what I know about engine additives, do I risk it?

I run ATF in the oil now, about a quart... and I'm due for an oil change...

Any comments?

BTW, This car will most likely be sold, even if the leak stops, I'll sell my parts through the classifieds... I'll then be on the hunt for a Dodge Dakota SS R/T or a V8 thirdgen...

 

Sell the car intact
Add anyhthing that works (Usually DON'T-knowlewdge from personal experience)
ask $895
sell for compromise!
Don't part out, not worth effort.
honest go goodbye to it.

 

AHAHhahaha I paid 1300 for this car, and pumped at least another grand into it... I won't settle for less than 1500...

 

Why are you running ATF? I've heard of guys putting a quart in every now and then to clean sludge out of the motor.. but they usually change the oil soon after. Maybe you removed some sludge that helped the rear main seal make a good seal?

I know you've heard this before, but- are you sure it's the rear main seal? If the distributor seal leaks (and if you haven't changed it yet, it's leaking), oil drips down the back of the block, around the back of the crank, and onto the ground. When looking at the rear of the crank via the flywheel inspection cover, oil shows up at the back of the crank, and "looks" like a rear main leak. A $0.99 O-ring could fix it.

Also, are you running 5w30? Try a 10w30... that might slow the leak a bit when the car's not running.

 

We're in a recession, most thirdgens are in no demand whatsoever. V6 thirdgens are completely worthless. So just to clarify, you have an 85, 2.8 auto with a blown tranny and you think you can sell it for $1500? Good luck. No offense but if you actually want the car to sell (rather than have it sit for the next 6 months while you run ads and tell everyone you know that its for sale) you should start at $1000 and hope that you get more than $500 if anythign at all out of the car.

Go to kbb.com and run the private party value, then divide by two and you'll have a fairly realistic idea of what most people would consider a fair deal for a car like yours.

 

NO PUT DOWN INTENDED
BUT
look at your signature.
You want THAT V-8 CAR for $1,000.
AND YOU WON'T TAKE LESS, EXPECT AND WILL SELL YOUR BROKEN, LEAKY V-6 CAR
For $1,500.
I'd find that distributor o ring & Chevy Small Block Gasket, some BLACK RTV, clean and drive your investment.
IT's an easy car to band aid.
IT can be slightly costly to repair (tranny).
If ya got that much into it, you're on the losing end already.
Vacuum hoses cost nothing, that cures problems, too.
Spend the effort, you'll enjoy your ride more.
After ya fix the leak, drive it till the tranny pukes.
You could discover how decent a car you already own.
For very little pocket change.

 

First of all, Drew is right, I highly doubt you will get $1500.00 without covering up the engine and tranny damage somehow. As far as the Silo stuff goes, I firmly believe in never putting anything like that in the motor. That stuff is made by the same people who make the seals and bearings and everyithing else that will wear out faster using "motor honey", then you pay even more money on the parts you wore out dumping stuff in your crankcase.

I have also heard that people have good luck using that Radiator Stop Leak. In my personal experience, it does work good in blocking holes in the radiator, but I plugged up heater cores in a Dodge Shadow and a Maxda B2000 pickup truck. Heater cores have smaller fins then radiators and the stop leak blocks it all up. I have actually cracked eggs into my radiator. The eggs boil wherever there is a leak and the yoke plugs the hole, believe it or not.

 

Well say what you like, but my baseline is actual experience through looking for cars and looking through the paper, classifieds online and in my local autoshopper.

1)V6 cars are worth money

2)I can V8 cars within my price range (81 Camaro, 87 TA with rebuilt motor and trans and an 87 Z28 which I know for a fact sold for 700). I e-mailed a guy about a solid 89 Iroc he's selling for 1850, the TA above was selling for 1100, the 81 Camaro 1000 with a trans that needed a new pump, the 87 Z28 LG4 was a low 13 second car that needed some body work... I found a thrashed 11 second TA for sale for 1200... an Iroc with a 350 and T-5 with front end damage which sold for 750... just to further drive home my point. If I can mask problems or hope people don't see them, I'll get my moneys worth...

3) I can and will mask what is wrong with the car.

4) I have replaced the distributor o-ring, checked the valve covers...

5) it doesn't matter because I do not want to put any more money into this car whatsoever.


The car does not leak while sitting, it only leaks a silver dollar sized amount on start up, and thats it.

I run ATF to clean out the motor, it was abused before me so the past few oil changes have included ATF.

6) I admit my signature is a bit off... I e-mailed a guy about a solid 89 Iroc he's selling for 1850, the TA above was selling for 1100, the 81 Camaro 1000 with a trans that needed a new pump, the 87 Z28 LG4 was a low 13 second car that needed some body work... I found a thrashed 11 second TA for sale for 1200... an Iroc with a 350 and T-5 with front end damage which sold for 750... just to further drive home my point.

7) I'm confident I can get some cash for this car. I will start obsurdly high and make the car as nice as possible and come down... I'm not going to start low, what is the point? Why start low when there is some sucker out there (like I was) who will buy it...

8) The only problems with the car is the exhaust leak, the tranny fluid being brown and gritty and the oil leak (that has been doing it since I bought it, little to my knowledge), I just now discussed it with my mech who replaced the o-ring the first time, and he says "well it's probably the rear main... the o-ring is new and the pressure sensor is fine"... the only things left back there are the cam button seal and the rear-main... both costly, both not worth it.

 

AS far as your "baseline experience" is concerned, you are telling us about cars that are for sale, not sold. I could put a $10,000 price tag on my 87 SC 2.8, that doesn't mean it's worth that.

And as far as your plans to mask the problems with your car before you sell it it, that's a good way to get your a** handed to you. I am fortunate enough to have a lot of mechanical experience, but a lot of people don't and you are trying to take advantage of these people. I truly hope that if by some miracle you sell a $500 car for $1500 and buy something else, that it blows up the next day. Maybe then the next time you sell something you will be a little more honest in your dealings and not try to take advantage of other people.

 

grimes, you miss my point entirely...

I was pointing out that I can and have found V8 cars in decent shape that are in my price range, and I did note the cars that were sold and how much they sold for. Read closer before you bash people.

Granted I'm never going to recoup the money I've put into it, but I want to at least keep half of it, or try to anyway.

Reguardless, it's a very clean very straight car. It will be sold with some minor extra's...

P.S. Thank you for giving me **** and wishing harm to me. I was screwed with the purchase and though I will never lie to anyone, I will play dumb like the previous owner, won't open my mouth unless asked, people will check for leaks, and check for transmission failure, ask questions. I blame no one but myself for running into the purchase of this car and no one can blame me for wanting as much for it as possible. I will say this car is in better shape than when I got it, and considering I paid 1300, 1500 seems like a good number. Good luck with -your- ride.

 

My point is; stop running the ATF!! Old motors get sludge built up, and that sludge helps prevent oil leaks through the worn-out seals. ATF's only supposed to be run in a motor for a little while, not change after change after change. You actually could've caused this rear main leak with the ATF! It's the same reason we can't run Synthetic motor oil in our engines without rebuilding them first- the smaller synthetic molecules will slip right by the worn out seals.

Get rid of the ATF, put in 10w30 instead of 5w30, and don't even worry about that little leak. Hell, throw in some CD-2 leak stopper if you want!

And if the interior's decent, the exterior's good, and the motor runs well, I don't see any reason why you wouldn't get $1500 for it. People buy cars with problems all the time... and usually wind up in here asking for help!

 

Not that I condone acts of fraud, but you could also run some 10w40 or 50 (With no ATF) in there to stop the leak if it is not real bad. This will be far less harmful than the motor honey. If the leak is bad the only way to fix it is to replace the seal.

BTW: The rear main seal only costs a few bucks and replacement will take a weekend if you've never done it before. Very easy just a bit of work.

Since my tranny is still out (3mos now since I ordered the clutch )I considered replacing the seal but it looked fine.

Dale

 

Thank ***, Tom you've restored my faith.

I will definatly follow your advice about the ATF and 10W30. I'm due for a change and I've got a new Delco PF52 waiting to be put on...

This post can be closed now.

 

My dad used to add CD-2 stop leak to the '87 Olds 2.8 we had; it had oil leaks everywhere (valve covers, front seal, etc). When we got rid of the car, the only problem was in the computer; the engine was still powerful, no problems. I wouldn't add it every oil change; maybe just add it when you see the leak again.

Won't the 10w40 cause excessive oil pressure? Or will it not be noticed?

 

The pressure increase should be marginal.

I know the fix kinda-sorta works for rings, valve seats etc. but if it is only a silver dollar sized leak, plain old 10w30 would probably be fine once some sludge builds up again.

Dale

 

V6 cars are still worth something around here too. Especially if the body is in good shape (no or very little rust). But, I don't agree with the "screw the next guy and pass the savings on to your self" mentality. Do unto others as you would have them do unto you.

Mark

 

or just put 40 weight in it or 50 hell why not gear lube that will stop the leak unlike the celica i got pour 40 weight in give it a hour its a qt low lol

 

hey TomP i read your post about not runnign synthetic oils in our cars unless the engine has been rebuilt. but i have been running synthetic oil (Mobul 5W 30) since I bought the car with 72,000 on it.....now up to 103,000. i don't loose oil, and don't leave spots on the ground. i am also running synthetic ATF with no fluid lose either (changed it at 72,000).

guess i was just looking for opinons. keep running synthetic as long as their are no leaks, or you you think plain old oil is best for our cars anyway. i am due for a change around 105,000.

 

I have been running synthetic in my truck (car isn't running yet). It had 135,000 on it when I bought it and now has 187,000 and no leaks. 89 chevy 350.

Mark

 

Really? That's cool, guys! I heard of guys putting synthetic in their old motors, and getting leaks from everywhere. I'll stick with the Dinosaur stuff until I rebuild this motor. I am running half-synthetic "Valvoline durablend" in my trans, since it's a relatively fresh rebuild- and no leaks.

 

We use regular oil in our race engines for our boat to break them in . Chrome-moly rings are hard to seat with synthetic oil . Ater a few hours of break in time we drain the oil and refill with synthetic oil .
works great .
We have never lost an engine due to pump or bearing failure and we crank the engine over 8k .

 

well 3 years ago I know I paid WAY too much for my V6, but again it had only 67K on it and had alot few problems and looked better with the factory paint job. Now I would not even dare to ask more then 1k(a mojor reason I will not get rid of it anytime soon). Maybe with a new paint job I might ask 1200. Thats it.

Xeno, I have bought bogus cars in the past too, and I have seen the people after words, and quite frankly I wish I woulda had my rifle EVERY time I have seen those A$$es and take care of business. NO ONE likes to be ripped off. BUT if you go ahead and tell the prosective buyer hey theres nothing wrong with the car and it runs great... well that will put you down there with the child molesters in my book.

Hell I would rather be told the truth about the car so as the buyer I can make a decision about weither or not I want to put in the time and effort to get the car fixed and fixed right. Yeah it may mean you will have it longer then you want but... at least you'll still have some semblence of self respect knowing you did not go and rip someone off....

I paid well over 5k for this off the lot. I have invested another couple K's and I know the car is not worth a 1/4 of what I have spent/Put into it. Now once the 4.3 motor and a few other things get slapped in the car will be worth twice what I have invested. But then again this will be a true one of a kind and a FAST car. able to put most V8's in their place. Considering the displacement of the engine.

BUT if I did ever get the wild hair to sell it after I was done building it up I would want so much for it that it will not be one of those 2K 3rds. Add 4 0's behind it and you will at least get a response(no but at least a response). After all the custom stuff that will be going into this car I would not take anything less then 35K for it. PERIOD. BUT then again with the 11 sec daily driver staus and only 1 of them out there it may be worth it to somebody to TRY to buy it.

This probly comes off REAL HARSH and its meant to. DO NOT LIE TO PEOPLE ABOUT THE CAR YOUR SELLING THEM. IT WILL COME BACK TO YOU.

Just imagine how'd you feel if you did sell your car(ripped someone off doing it) but you got the $$$ for that R/T 10. You find the perfect one, buy it then the motor craps out after 2K miles? Quess what you just got what you deserved and NOW YOU have to spend the 3K just like that person that bought your car has to spend to get it fixed.

 

Whoa, this is nuts.

1500 for an 85 V-6 that needs a tranny rebuild. I tried to sell my
Firebird back in the fall (87) with nothing wrong, and I couldn;t
get 1500 Canadian for It. I got one phone call cause some idiot
thought it was a Thunderbird.


The car looks to be in good shape but seriously, I have been
looking around for my next thidgen, and If I looked at yours, I
would say 750 take it or leave it (if I would even offer that). A blown tranny sucks.


And there is nothing worse than masking a car of its flaws. That
is completely uncalled for. I mean if there is a small hole in the floor sure. Or if there is a small oil leak. But when your car is pumping out oil, and the transmission is leak. You don't see that
too some kid who has worked hard for their money and is trying to enjoy it.

 

Maybe it's not a rear main, cause when I say that people say "puddles of oil"... this thing is a 10 second drip at start up that amounts to a silver dollar sized puddle...

The transmission does not leak, and the rest of the car is flawless except for an exhaust leak which is getting fixed because I know a guy who will do it right and cheap...



I assume you mean "sell"?

Tell me about it, this is the same exact thing that happened to me... I got money for Christmas and Birthdays all my life and saved the money... 17 was approaching and I wanted the car... I got it... "oh yeah runs great" even the mech I had with me who LOVES THIRDGENS (owns a 350 manual TA and a V6 firebird and has a 455 to drop in it to race) said the motor was strong for a V6... and they were all wrong... I will never again trust anything but my own eyes ears and hands when it comes to stuff... hence the reason why I drive all around the state on my free time looking at potential vehicles... Keyport one day... AC the next, Philly and possibly west side of Pensy in a few weeks... ect.

I KNOW WHAT IT IS LIKE TO BE LIED TO!!!

I admit I am wrong for saying this... I detailed the car today in the snow and freezing weather and I'm confident the car will sell it's self... not a ding on it... the paint will be compounded when the weather warms up and I'll check the oil leak out a little more and run heavier oil... I'll sell it as "a nice clean straight car, the tranny is rough but everything else is fine", assuming the oil leak stops or is fixed... hell maybe I'll drop the trans and put a 200C behind the motor and fix the leak myself while I'm at it... Otherwise I'll tack onto the above quote "it leaks a few drips of oil on startup but after it's been running a few seconds it stops" WHICH IS TOTALLY THE TRUTH!... I don't want to rip someone off, I want to get my moneys worth. I still refuse to ask less for the car... I have this car completely documented since the day i bought it... went over it with a fine toothed comb and listed everything that was wrong with it and how it was fixed, I plan on handing copies of this to the people who look at the car to know the car has been legitamently been taken car of since I purchased it... bidding starts at 1500 firm... In the spring when it hits the papers we'll know how it works... in the mean time... injectors are going out to Rich J, exhaust is getting fixed and I'm paying 160 bucks for Z28 rims and tires to put on the car to complete the look...

Thank you all once again for wishing harm on me and once again, this post can be closed now.

 

I only wish you harm if you go and dileberately try to rip someone off. thats just wrong. If you tell them whats wrong with the car, thats another story. But it sounds like you do plan on masking the problems, and in the mean time your tring to get the thing looing nice and hopeing to sell on looks alone.


WHAT you SHOULD consider doing is selling it as a donor for a V8 swap. The motor and Trans by the sounds of it are gone. perfect canidate for the swap.

Though honestly you might get 1000 selling as the donor swap. put on ebay as the donor and see what happens. You might get 1K or more. I have seen some real POS cars go for way more then their worth.