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Ked, Tom, or anyone Gas tank question?

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Old Mar 19, 2002 | 09:55 PM
  #1  
Joe_L's Avatar
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From: Halifax, NS,Canada
Car: 1995 Z28
Engine: LT1
Transmission: Built 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.23's - Limited Slip
Ked, Tom, or anyone Gas tank question?

Well my university has been on strike for over 2 weeks now A$$holes.

So I decided that I would remove my gas tank now, (the lines up top are leaking).

I only have one question.


How long are the two bolts on the straps???

Cause if there 6 inches I am cutting those buggers off. But if there 3, I might take a wirl at them. (I live in Rust hole Nova Scotia. So the most bolts do not aggree and there is no heating them up in this situation.)
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Old Mar 20, 2002 | 09:00 AM
  #2  
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From: Uxbridge MA
I had the pluesure of removing on for a friend in a junk yard. If you can get the car on a lift it would be a hell of a lot easier. The bolts are not that long, the hard part is you will need to remove the panard bar behind the rear axle. That is hard to do with the car on a jack (The hardest 20 bucks a ever made .)
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Old Mar 20, 2002 | 09:18 AM
  #3  
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From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
Ouch... what does that do to the length of your semester, and all the exams?

Which lines are leaking? The steel ones (hopefully not)? Or the regular hoses? You could replace the hoses without dropping the tank... the pressure hose's fittings are probably rusted up, though. Spray lots of penetrant on them, constantly, for a few days before you start the job. (Ex: Wake up, spray penetrant, when you come home at night, spray more.) You'd want to relieve the pressure on that hose before you disconnect it; remove your fuel filter and that should do it. The other hoses are not pressurized; they're a tank vent, a fuel return line, and a vapor line for the charcoal can. I used regular 'ol fuel hose for 'em, but Karl used fuel injection hose for extra strength. You could use either one.

You'll probably have more trouble removing the bolts for the track bar (panhard rod) and track bar brace than those upper straps. There's also the problem of dropping the muffler & heat shields out. I don't think you can even cut those strap bolts; from what I remember, they're hidden when the tank is up. Use a 1/2" breaker bar, with a 1/2" socket, with a lonnng 1/2" extension. The thicker 1/2" extension won't "twist up" and absorb your torque like a thin 3/8" socket set extension would.

Oh- check for availability for the pressure hose. When I did my tank for the second time, I thought "Hey, I should replace that hose." Well, I should've planned for it; it was $40, and would take 2-3 weeks to get to my dealer.
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Old Mar 20, 2002 | 10:26 AM
  #4  
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From: Halifax, NS,Canada
Car: 1995 Z28
Engine: LT1
Transmission: Built 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.23's - Limited Slip
About the semester. Right now I am spose to be writting a second set of mid-terms. Well its not happening. Marks are going to be bumped and scaled. And as far as I know exams are still set to be written in April. Its not looking good. I will probably fail 1 or two courses because of this. I am trying to keep up but it is next to impossible. I just hope we get back in there soon.
Not to mention Its costing me an arm and a leg, I might as well have taken this semester correspondence.

Surprisingly someone has removed the track bar support before, so I just used an old trick where you turn the bolt back and forth a little bit at a time to get them free. Well they came out. Muffler is off heat sheilds are gone. That stuff all came out easy.

The steal lines are the leaking ones *sigh* It was the hoses last year, but not this time around. Not to mention there is a leak somewheres in the tank as well. So this is going to be quite a project. Horray.

Well I am going going back out and dry those bolts again they have been soaking all night. If worse come sto worse I will just cut the straps.

Thanks Guys.
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Old Mar 20, 2002 | 02:49 PM
  #5  
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From: Halifax, NS,Canada
Car: 1995 Z28
Engine: LT1
Transmission: Built 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.23's - Limited Slip
Well one bolt twisted off, a hack saw cut, and few more loosend bolts and the gas tank is off in my hands.

Thanks for the help guys.

Well maybe it is not the lines on top. The tank is leaking on the seam where it is put together.

Well I have a few more weeks of classes some time, so It will be a little while before I do some more to it.
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Old Mar 20, 2002 | 03:16 PM
  #6  
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From: ****SoCal, USA****
Sorry couldn't jump in earlier to assist.
Only assist I can offer is to get a newer tank.
Go for the 1989 & above. Those later tanks have the in tank baffles that allow you to high speed turn without having fuel starvation problems appear. I wanted to upgrade my gas tank, but, it wasn't in the cards at the time of my fuel pump tank mission.
Grab the steel lines at the same time of the tank swap.
The "other" idea may be to "Sleeve" those damaged steel lines.
Meaning - Can you slide gas line hose over the leaking area and use worm clamps for the hold down?
Is it possible?
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Old Mar 20, 2002 | 05:09 PM
  #7  
Joe_L's Avatar
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From: Halifax, NS,Canada
Car: 1995 Z28
Engine: LT1
Transmission: Built 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.23's - Limited Slip
Ked, don't worry about being late.

I am not sure if the lines are leaking upt top anymore. I guess I got the tank off just in time. 15cm of snow tomorrow, and it was +10 today.

I am going to hook the fuel pump back up sometime, and put it in gas, and see if there are any leaks.

My plan is the lines are pretty much rust free for the first foot or so. So I am going to get high pressure rubber line, and run a that so there will be no leaks.

As for tank. I am going to go new, as incometax just came in and allows me to do such things. There is really nothing I can do to save the seam. Dad said he would braze if for me. But he said he recommended a new tank too. I do not want to go through the torture of taking if off again, because I was cheap.
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Old Mar 20, 2002 | 11:51 PM
  #8  
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From: ****SoCal, USA****
Scout around for an 89 & above!
Have it pressure tested and cleaned.
DO YOU KNOW HOW MUCH A NEW DEALER TANK CAN COST?
Spend the money saved on all new fuel pump parts.
Then find that 3.4!!
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Old Mar 21, 2002 | 06:10 PM
  #9  
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From: Halifax, NS,Canada
Car: 1995 Z28
Engine: LT1
Transmission: Built 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.23's - Limited Slip
Well actually, My dad is a mechanic at a local golf course. So he gets parts from odd companies at whole sale and below price because he gives these places his business.

So he is going to call tomorrow and see what the price is for a new tank. I am not too worried about the fuel pump right yet I think it will last me what I have planned for it.

As for the 3.4 This car's body is getting too old and weak for it. I am going in search of an 86-88 this spring that needs a motor. And then do the swap.

I am going to try to sell my firebird mid summer, while it is inspected for another year try to get 1000 out of it. The body is alright, but the trans has never seen a rebuild and its at the 155 mark. So If I stay gental with it. She will make it.

If I didn't live on a dirt road the car would last longer, but the wear and tear of dirt kills it. Not to mention the dust that I got in my eyes taking the tank off (and I had safety glasses on).

But after dad gets the price to me. I will call around to local Junk yards and look for an 89 and up tank. Thanks for the advice Ked.
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Old Mar 22, 2002 | 04:41 PM
  #10  
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From: Halifax, NS,Canada
Car: 1995 Z28
Engine: LT1
Transmission: Built 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.23's - Limited Slip
Prices list all canadian funds
From GM new-717.59
From dealership out of CA 238.75 used, but no rust.
From Dads whole saler $111 Brand new.

So Monday I will have a new tank shipped to my door grad total of $140 with taxes and shipping.
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