Ok.. I'm thinking to get an extra good look for car shows, and an extra kick at the strip..a temporary job for me might be to remove my intake arm all together, and undo the screw thing holding the little rubber end to the plastic part of the arm, and just connecting a K&N conical to that end..and maybe running a piece of metal or something along the bottom so the thing goes straight ahead and doesn't droop down much. Now, I'm going to leave my idle air temp sensor connected I think, and just tape it down to where my filter used to be. I might actually bolt the filter down where it is, leaving the sensor inside, and just covering the intake lid..that way dirt doesn't get onto the sensor and ruin it. But the question is...would the car still run normally even if the IAT wasn't positioned properly to pick up the correct temperature of the air entering the engine? I tried disconnecting the sucker and I lose all of my power. Basic question: should I/could I?

 

You can put a resistor i cant remeber what kind i have one in my car so it thinks oits 40 somethin degrees out all the time. i ofund out the resistor values on a website but i cant find it sorry

 

Can you find them at the local parts store? And what do you do..just unplug the sensor and plug that sucker in? And what temp would you recommend the thing fake, so the car runs the best during normal weather (here, it's normally warm to hot)

 

Its Actualy going to be a Radio Shack. I live in cali its hot here too im gonna go back to the old way because i have smog in a few months. See if you can do a search for resistor Values There is a way to read them by the color bands on them. I solderd mine into the wires but you can also just put it in the connector for the IAT i had it like that but it looked cheap to me. nDid i notice a difference maybe a little better throtle response at the most its not a big thing really. If you want you can also take your Current IAT and mount it somewere in the front of your car were its not noticeable like behind the grill and it will get cooler air there. I also had the IAT dangling. Honestly ive noticed no real difference with the resistor or having it dangling. But the resistors are like 2 bucks for 10 of them or somethin like that way cheap

 

here you go
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...sistor+and+tbi

 

Thanks man... I have a few Radio Shacks by my house..time to go hunting. You said it hooks right into the connector? Is this w/o using glue or re-wiring anything? I dont wanna mess with anything on my car that I can't easily undo, because I'm selling it. I just want her to look/run good for another show or two before I get rid of her. BTW... Here's the question..I dunno if Autozone/Discount Auto Parts sells K&N conicals or not, but.. Would I get more airflow from a K&N filter without the air can, but WITH the intake arm, or with a lesser quality conical hooked up without the intake arm, so it's just sticking out in front of engine. I doubt you guys have tested this, but..any educated guesses? The conical I was looking at is a chrome-housed one, meant for the ricers. Lol. I figure if I'm lucky, maybe it'll pull in cold air from my fan. Only problem is then, I gotta get the fan to kick in before 230. Lol. But that's for another post.

 

It's... M.. A.. T..!!! Sorry... IAT is the 4th gen terminology, they're the same sensor, but for some reason, calling it an IAT makes me tense up!

Substituting a resistor in there wouldn't do much, and it might hurt. My '86 GM book says that the MAT "compensates the MAF", whatever the hell that means. Maybe the MAT helps the MAF determine air flow? Not sure. But the absolute best bet is to extend the MAT so it's right in the path of the air entering a relocated air filter. I "hung" mine by my air filter. It's not "in" the air flow, it just needs to be near it.

 

Lol..I'm just calling it what all the books are calling it now. So..MAT meaning, Mass Air Temperature? Not that that makes any difference. But IAT..sounds cooler to say, doesn't it? Now, I gotta find how long that wire is..I don't do electrical work and I'm afraid to start making cuts and running it with extension wire, cause I'd probably use the wrong stuff..too thick, too thin, too much resistance, too little resistance.. I don't know if I could get it all the way out to where the filter would be..doubt it...That's a good foot and a half at least. Probably more like 2 1/2. But I'm bad with estimating distances, and like hell I'm gonna go out and measure right now. I ain't movin.

 

By the way Tom...that makes sense if you think about it. The MAF measures the air flow right...and the MAT measures the temperature of the air.. As we know, hot air expands...cold air can be condensed more...so maybe while the MAF senses exactly how much air flow there is, the MAT measures the temperature, giving you the..density of the air coming in.. Sound right?

 

Haha, I know, like I said, that's just something that bugs me, no big deal. Just like when someone says "I'm putting Flowmasters on my Camaro"- dammit, we just have ONE muffler, so it's a Flowmaster! And man, if they say "flows" instead of "flowmaster", look out!

MAT = Manifold Air Temp sensor. Some V8's have that sensor on the throttle body (i.e. manifold), which isn't a good idea, since the MAT starts to read the temp of the manifold, and not the air. You might see MAT (or IAT) relocate harnesses sold; that's why.

As long as you use a similar gauge, you'll be fine. "Chain" auto stores (like Pep Boys or Strauss or etc) usually sell spools of wire. From "memory", I think the MAT wires are 20 gauge. You could go to an 18 gauge without worry. A thinner gauge than what the wire is now would introduce some extra resistance, but it'd be very minimal for such a short run (I'd guess 0.000003 ohms), and you won't cause a fire, so no big deal. Search thru the old messages here (V6 board) for a message we all had on "how to splice wires".

 

Ok, Thanks Tom. I did the search. I'd cut and crimp. Don't have anything to solder with. Although I get kinda paranoid cutting wires, the MAT (happy Tom?) wire especially, since I'm selling this car...and I'll be able to tell immediately if I didn't get the connection right (because the car will run, full throttle, about as fast as an electric wheelchair). 0-60 in maybe 18? I don't have a wire cutter or anything but I think they temporarily loan tools out for free at Autozone or Discount.. Maybe I could even tip a guy there an extra few bucks and have him do it..for a few bucks, I'd rather have a pro do it than old jackass me that doesn't know the first thing about it.

 

And if he screws it up, I could make him buy me a whole new sensor and install it exactly how I want it.