V6 Discussion and questions about the base carbureted or MPFI V6's and the rare SFI Turbo V6.

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Old Apr 9, 2002 | 09:25 AM
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PICTURES

does anyone have any picture of their custom or home made ram and or cold air set ups????
i'm looking for a few ideas for my 91 firebird

thanks

Last edited by confucius101; Apr 9, 2002 at 12:32 PM.
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Old Apr 9, 2002 | 06:58 PM
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Project: 85 2.8 bird's Avatar
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From: BFE, MD
Car: 13 Ram 1500/ 78 Formy
Engine: 5.7 / 7.4
Transmission: 6sp / TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.55 posi / 3.23
Camaro_hunter-d has an intersting one, for a camaro, but it should still work. I'm thinking of one that will work w/ the engine na & w/turbo.

do a search, as there are many others w/pics of theirs.
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Old Apr 17, 2002 | 03:53 PM
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Car: 87 Red/Blk Bird loaded 3.4L & 700R4
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here is my old ram/cold air induction set up.
Attached Thumbnails ram or cold-1-engine02.jpg  
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Old Apr 17, 2002 | 03:54 PM
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From: Moved... GA still, more garage space!
Car: 87 Red/Blk Bird loaded 3.4L & 700R4
Transmission: Th700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
where it meets the ducting. Half of the filter is down in the ducting
Attached Thumbnails ram or cold-intake-tube.jpg  
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Old Apr 17, 2002 | 03:55 PM
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Originally posted by Project: 85 2.8 bird
Camaro_hunter-d has an intersting one, for a camaro, but it should still work. I'm thinking of one that will work w/ the engine na & w/turbo.

do a search, as there are many others w/pics of theirs.
Interesting? is that all?!? LOL to veiw go to www.geocities.com/generationxracing go to a page that has Idea for 3rd gen CAI I think?...

heres the link http://www.geocities.com/generationx.../MainPage.html at the bottom.
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Old Apr 17, 2002 | 03:55 PM
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From: Moved... GA still, more garage space!
Car: 87 Red/Blk Bird loaded 3.4L & 700R4
Transmission: Th700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
pic of the ducting in a mirror
Attached Thumbnails ram or cold-coldair-induct-mirror.jpg  
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Old Apr 21, 2002 | 12:20 AM
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Didn't that still run hot being so close to the engine and radiator. Plus I'm surpised the MAF didn't get so hott and break, that must have been a hassel extending the wires too. You got the new ram air set up on w/ the MAF on it now.
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Old Apr 21, 2002 | 12:21 AM
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From: Zephyrhills, FL. from Rochester, NY
Also what part number is that KN airfilter
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Old Apr 21, 2002 | 12:00 PM
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From: Lehigh Valley, PA
Car: 00 T/A Firehawk
Engine: 346ci LS1
Transmission: MN6
Axle/Gears: 3.42 LSD
I purchased my CAI from SLP. Below are some pictures of it. I was very impressed with the improved performance as well as the lower exhaust note, and the exhaust doesn't sound like it's being choked anymore. Here are some pictures of it.





Sorry for the load time, but I never got around to shrinking the images... Shouldn't take all too long though, only @ 240K.

Mark
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Old Apr 21, 2002 | 01:47 PM
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Sheesh, you guys gotta read down the posts a little bit. This is and EXACT duplicat of a post about 5 days ago!

WWasem....I don't know how much you spent on that, but you are still greatly restricting you intake by using the stock ducting.
Check this out. The next step (hopefully soon) is to box in the filter. You can hear the are being sucked in with the hood closed!! And see how much less restrictive it is for the air to get to the TB rather than taking all those narrow 90* stock bends. That pcv is 3" wide.

The basic idea here was for me to get the filter farthest away from the engine to get the coolest air. I didn't want to start hacking at the body of the car so i left it in the engine bay, as close to the fender as it will get. now, boxing it in will eliminate excess warm air, and ideally take the cool air in from inside the fender. Also, rain is not an issue this way. The intake temp sensor is screwed in under the 45* bend.
Attached Thumbnails ram or cold-enginesidesmll.jpg  
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Old Apr 21, 2002 | 01:48 PM
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<<>>
Attached Thumbnails ram or cold-behindairsmall.jpg  
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Old Apr 22, 2002 | 12:20 PM
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From: Moved... GA still, more garage space!
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Originally posted by maverick544
Didn't that still run hot being so close to the engine and radiator. Plus I'm surpised the MAF didn't get so hott and break, that must have been a hassel extending the wires too. You got the new ram air set up on w/ the MAF on it now.
I have run that set up for close to 2 years and I have never had a prob with heat hurting the MAF. Since the ducting is routed to the filter it gave 2/3 of the filter cool air. The other 1/3 has the air that is blowing up from the ducts, so it was still pretty cool.

There was plenty of wire all bunched up in the factory wire harness. All I had to do was take off the old looms and untangle a few wires. Everything reached. In fact I was able to get them to reach for the new set up as well. I tested all that before I even modded the intake. I wasn't going to do it if I had to cut and splice the wires. I guess GM decided to have tons of length on the 2.8 wires.

Yes I have the MAF on the new set up. It took some fiddling, but I got the MAF and air temp all hooked up w/o splicing a wire. I hope to have some shots up this weekend on my site.

I will have to check on the part #. I think I have the box in the basement at home.

Last edited by redraif; Apr 22, 2002 at 12:23 PM.
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Old Apr 22, 2002 | 09:12 PM
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From: Riverside, CA
Car: 1991 Firebird
Engine: 3.1LV6
Transmission: 700R4


here's mine
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Old Apr 23, 2002 | 12:09 AM
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Car: 1983 Pontiac Firebird
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Wow you guys get great HP from sucking air from your fender......NOT!

LOL.....Come on guys it supose to be a "cold" or "ram" air intake not suck from the Headlight/Fender....Out of all you guys on this board Redraif is the only one who did it right. Althought if you brought the filter element down 3 more inches, put a 90° elbow in and then put those suction tubes in making it an in closed filter, it will be more effincant.

To all those people who say, "You don't even have Ram/Cold air." Yes I do I have my K&N Airfilter lid and standard element blocked off with thick foam padding so it will only suck throught my open scoop.

All Hail:

:hail: :hail: :hail: :lala: :lala: :lala:
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Old Apr 23, 2002 | 07:30 AM
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Thats great FireAm....But I am not to keen on 1) Hacking the frame of my car apart so I can re-route my ducting with 2-3 90* bends (freefleowing??) so I can scoop air in from the outside of the car. And 2), worrying about sucking in rain, or even snow by mounting a scoop under my car. What I did was just simple, safe, and MUCH better over stock. Besides the fact I was never attempting to fabricate ram air in the first place.

And if you want to get technical, I don't think redraif's design is not very effective at all, especially if you said she did it "right". I mean think about it. First, its mounted right behind the radiator, I don't care what you say....its WARM down there (between the block and the radiator). Plus, there is now way the air is actually "raming" in there either. The air is traveling past her new intake ducting and filter at a 90* angle. So think about it. While the air is traveling from the front of the car to the back of the car while you are driving....your new "ram air" setup is trying to take the air now and suck it straight up towards your hood.....I don't buy it. Sure you are raming air "through the filter", but the point is to ram it into the ducting to the TB. The filter is just there to clean it. By the time you are sucking the moving are up and away from its previous direction, you are getting less air than if you had an open element sitting in a place where the air is still. I agree with you, adding scoops would definately help...that way the scoop is redirecting the air right into the ducting. It would definately be more effective. But then you deal with rain issues.

I just think thats an awefully bold and incorrect statement:

"Out of all you guys on this board Redraif is the only one who did it right"

Last edited by SAEspinz80; Apr 23, 2002 at 07:53 AM.
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Old Apr 23, 2002 | 09:28 AM
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Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
I also wonder how the cooling of the car was affected. Seems like the fan would've had to work harder to cool the radiator, since all the ducting was in the way.

And the fender is a good spot to suck cold air from.

SAEspinz, you should've seen how dirty my K&N was when I cleaned it... those filters take abuse when "facing" forwards! My intake routes into my passenger fender, and curves thru the fender, and down, below the frame. It rests on the lower front fender brace of the passenger fender.
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Old Apr 23, 2002 | 10:16 AM
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TomP, sounds good! I could only imagine how dirty it gets sitting in there. Where mine is now its gets rediculously dirty. And its an even coating of dirt too, I clean it every couple months.

There is a ton of cool air over there by the fender....thats why my next step is to box in the filter on the three sides facing the the engine bay. It'll be a nice inexpensive cool air setup.
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Old Apr 23, 2002 | 03:04 PM
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From: Moved... GA still, more garage space!
Car: 87 Red/Blk Bird loaded 3.4L & 700R4
Transmission: Th700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Originally posted by TomP
I also wonder how the cooling of the car was affected. Seems like the fan would've had to work harder to cool the radiator, since all the ducting was in the way.
Not sure if this was a question for me or not. But in case it was...

Before I drove the car down to Pensacola, FL. for a show, we installed a temperature gauge. I was tired of worrying about the idiot lights reliability. It burned me once before when the sensor was broke. Now on the entire 5-6 hr drive, the car never got above 180. I don’t see how the ducting is in the way.

In fact, I drive it everyday and I have had no problems with it ever overheating or problems cooling with that intake set up. Even in stop and go traffic, I don't see how a 4in pipe would really affect the air getting to the fan. I know when you are moving, most of the cooling air supplied to the radiator comes from the air dam in front of the car. It pushes cold air up to the radiator. I have not messed with any of the air dam directly in front of the radiator. The lower ducting did not block off the opening around the bottom of the radiator, so the fan can still draw cool air. The ducting is well below the bottom of the radiator. There is a ton of open space down there.
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Old Apr 23, 2002 | 03:07 PM
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From: Moved... GA still, more garage space!
Car: 87 Red/Blk Bird loaded 3.4L & 700R4
Transmission: Th700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Originally posted by fiream
Althought if you brought the filter element down 3 more inches, put a 90° elbow in and then put those suction tubes in making it an in closed filter, it will be more effincant.
I had to leave the element at that height or it would have drug the ground. First speed bump I came to would have destroyed it. As it was, it stuck down 3-4 inches below the car. If you laid on the ground you could see it hanging down. The filter I have is so large because it was the only one AutoZone had at the time that had a capped end and had a coupler at the other end.

Its not a true Ram air because the top of the filter is open above the duct. It could be more effective if I blocked off the top. I left it like this till I could come up with an effective screen for the front of the ducts. I have heard of too many people sucking up plastic bags or big leaves and having their air choked off. I left the top open so in this event the car could still get air. I never finished it because I got a functional SunCoast Ram air hood.
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Old Apr 23, 2002 | 03:07 PM
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From: Moved... GA still, more garage space!
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Axle/Gears: 3.73
Originally posted by SAEspinz80
And if you want to get technical, I don't think redraif's design is not very effective at all, especially if you said she did it "right". I mean think about it. First, its mounted right behind the radiator, I don't care what you say....its WARM down there (between the block and the radiator).
That’s why I have the U shaped ducts collecting and routing cold air from the front of the car. They are mounted to either side of the radiator. I cut out the air dam on the far sides of the car and mounted the ducts there. They supply the air directly to over half the filter. The fact is that I mounted the filter so low that ¾ of it is below the bottom of the radiator. Most of the heat is rising towards the hood. The air in that area is low pressure anyway and probably turbulent, due to the way air flows around the body and the ducting.

Look how the air from below your car deposits air on the back bumper. I know this because the car’s valve cover leaked. I had oil splatters on the top of my back bumper. It’s just the same on my ducting. There is dirt on top of it. It comes from the air following the bottom of the duct and curling around it and being directed above it. Like cars in a race drafting behind one another. The point is cool air is being introduced into the area behind the radiator as the car moves.

Plus, there is now way the air is actually "raming" in there either. The air is traveling past her new intake ducting and filter at a 90* angle. So think about it.
The ducting/scoops that is on the car is a U shape. You can see this in the pic I posted with the mirror. The legs of the U are the openings/scoops. Their opening faces front and catches the air as you drive. In the front the sides of the duct are parallel to the air as it travels front to back. The air enters and is smoothly directed towards the filter element. The bend is not as radical as a 90. Ergo less restriction and turbulence. The filter element was inserted through a hole in the top of the ducting (at the U shaped area).

While the air is traveling from the front of the car to the back of the car while you are driving....your new "ram air" setup is trying to take the air now and suck it straight up towards your hood.....I don't buy it. Sure you are raming air "through the filter", but the point is to ram it into the ducting to the TB. The filter is just there to clean it. By the time you are sucking the moving are up and away from its previous direction, you are getting less air than if you had an open element sitting in a place where the air is still. I agree with you, adding scoops would definately help...that way the scoop is redirecting the air right into the ducting. It would definately be more effective. But then you deal with rain issues.
If you are forcing/ramming the air through the filter it is ramming it into the ducting that follows. So I must be misunderstanding your point here.

I see it this way. I built the ducting so that it is open to the incoming air on 2 sides, the front and rear of the filter is blocked off by the ducting, so air can not travel past the filter. The air in the ducts can only go into the filter, or up along side it. The small amount of air that escapes up the sides of the filter gives the upper portion of the filter, above the ducts, cool air. So all that air VOLUME, “ramming through the filter,” goes into the ducting and to the TB. I would think, with more force than still air being sucked would.

Once the air is inside the filter, the air is then directed up the pipe by the vacuum that the engine in producing. In theory, if enough air is forced into the filter, it may overcome what vacuum is present. If the occurs the air will follow the path of least resistance, up the duct into the TB. So either way the car gets as much air as it can handle. Really under 100miles/hr, even with ram air, you can never get the velocity of the air high enough to give the car more air than it can suck. You can really only supply it with cool air.

Yes, the fender is a safe place to get clean somewhat cool air. And it is cool till the engine heats up. The air is still there and will heat up as the rest of the engine compartment does. Boxing it in would definitely help eliminate that. What I did not like was all the bends getting it to the TB. Your best bet is a straight pipe with milder curves. The air looses less velocity to turbulence with a straighter pipe. That’s what I attempted to do.

Any type of cool/ram air set up is difficult. There are always trade offs. Just go with the design that gives you what you are looking for. For ram air, your best bet is to get a functional aftermarket hood.

Last edited by redraif; Apr 23, 2002 at 03:15 PM.
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Old Apr 23, 2002 | 03:54 PM
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I see what you are saying, and I think in the end we are both making the same point. After reading that and looking at the pictures I can see what you are saying. The pictures are kind of awkward to look at and couldn't really tell that the filter was enclosed in such away that the air coming through the filter is being redirected. Anywho, that basically what I thought should be added, but since you already did that my point it null and void....haha.

Last edited by SAEspinz80; Apr 23, 2002 at 04:02 PM.
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Old Apr 23, 2002 | 04:12 PM
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From: Moved... GA still, more garage space!
Car: 87 Red/Blk Bird loaded 3.4L & 700R4
Transmission: Th700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
I figured that was the case as well. I tell you there is no good way to take a pic of that filter.

I figured I would spell it out if not for you than for the others who may want to attempt something like our set ups.
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