Hey guys,
I'm now finding out that there is zero clearance between these two, and its beginning to tear up the backside of my GTA rim on the drivers side, which for some reason is the only side its happening to. I even tried moving the wheels around, didn't work. Take a look. Suggestions anyone?

 

It looks like you have a rear wheel on the front look at the back of the wheels and you should see they are marked front or rear. Fronts will fit on the rear but rears won't fit on the front they have different back spacing.

 

I had the same problem with my corvette wheels. I had to flip the tie rod ends and put them through the top of the mount. It took some grinding make the ball joint fit right but it can be done.

 

thats a bad idea

OP, yeah, you have a rear wheel on the front. They will only work on the front if you have the 1le brakes, or floating rotor brake upgrade. The proper wheel is probably on the rear of the car.

who put the wheels on last?

 

Yes running the tie rod end in the wrong spot throws off the suspension.

 

Grinding suspension components, inverting steering linkage...Darwin approves of this modification...



Just hope you don't take some poor mom & kids out during your inevitable revelation.

 

Yeah it does throw off your suspension but when you lengthen the saybar links and taper the knuckel to make the tie rod fit it works fine. And if you own a 30,000 dollar alignment machine and it all checks out fine i think the alignment will be alright.

 

the static alignment may be fine, but you will have horrible bump steer. which is not good.

 

tell me how you get bump steer

 

how do you fix bump steer

 

You don't. You can only minimize it.

At the risk of oversimplification:

If you look at the geometry of the tie rods and how they connect to the steering knuckles you'll see how a change in the height of the steering knuckles (over a bump) will cause the tie rod to rotate slightly where it connects to the center link (which stays at constant height relative to frame). Any rotation WILL change the normal (horizontal) distance between the tie-rod mounting point on the centerlink and the tie rod mounting point on the knuckle.

This change will be slightest when the ride height position of the tie rod is nearest horizontal (trigonometry and all that). Changes to the tie rod position relative to the centerlink mounting point and steering knuckle that take it farther from level add more bump steer.

There's much more involved in steering geometry and it's really worth the effort to investigate.

 

okay but im the guy who did the tie rod flip on 1fastrock car and as it sits now the tie rods are level to the center link when the weight of the car is on it you mean to tell me that its not going to work. they do the samething on the jeeps for more road clearence as i did on mine look it up it. works as long as the angle of the tie rods are not on some rediculous angle

 

Spohn has bump steer kits to help with that problem
http://www.spohn.net/shop/1982-1992-...GM-F-Body.html

 

If both ends were flipped (?) the angle would likely be the same. The goal would be to maintain stock angle, which most bumpsteer kits attempt to do. Don't see why it wouldn't work in theory although machining would be required for the mounting points (I think you mentioned that).

 

I hope he didn't have the Rear Rim on the front...

I've scheduled to buy the Two Rear Rims!

 

You mean like he trashed the rears and is trying to pass them on to you???

 

Some times I just shake my head.

 

The wheels I purchased where not Trashed.
I actually scored a pretty good deal, Two Rear Non-Dimpled Wheels with Tires (Almost New) for $100.00
My apologies for being an instigator...

 

 

you got a pic im just curious to see what is actually happening