Want to run these wheels on the T/A, but...
#1
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Car: 88 T/A. TOTALLED!! (not by me)
Engine: TPI 5.0
Transmission: 700r4 Auto
Axle/Gears: 2.73 posi
Want to run these wheels on the T/A, but...
http://www.discounttiredirect.com/di...1&wd=18&rw=9.5
I'm wondering if the front hubs (stock discs) on the car will clear the center caps? (not protrude thru the rim) They appear to be very shallow in the center. I Want to run 17x8, (or 17x8.5) fronts, and 18x9.5 on rear. Any thoughts / advice? Should I order one rim and see if it will clear, then if not send it back? There are no specs on how deep or thick the wheel is @ the center bore, just lists 72mm center bore diam, or 73.5mm center bore diam available. Otherwise, they look like they will work perfectly.
Thanks,
John C.
I'm wondering if the front hubs (stock discs) on the car will clear the center caps? (not protrude thru the rim) They appear to be very shallow in the center. I Want to run 17x8, (or 17x8.5) fronts, and 18x9.5 on rear. Any thoughts / advice? Should I order one rim and see if it will clear, then if not send it back? There are no specs on how deep or thick the wheel is @ the center bore, just lists 72mm center bore diam, or 73.5mm center bore diam available. Otherwise, they look like they will work perfectly.
Thanks,
John C.
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Car: 82 firebird
Engine: a few
Transmission: th350
Axle/Gears: wondering this myself
Re: Want to run these wheels on the T/A, but...
if you need you could order the one and then see if using a spacer will work if they don't clear. you just need to get your offset (backspacing) correct and i believe they will fit.
p.s. those look awesome
p.s. those look awesome
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Car: 88 T/A. TOTALLED!! (not by me)
Engine: TPI 5.0
Transmission: 700r4 Auto
Axle/Gears: 2.73 posi
Re: Want to run these wheels on the T/A, but...
Yeah, the car is the factory white color, so i think the silver wheel with mirror lip will be awesome looking with some 295s on the back. Especially after the car is dropped a couple of inches. ;P
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Car: 82 firebird
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Re: Want to run these wheels on the T/A, but...
just warning you that if you are running that wide of a tire on a car lowered that much you might start running into rubbing problems
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Car: 1984 LG4 Camaro
Engine: 350 Roller Motor
Transmission: Level 10 700R4
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Re: Want to run these wheels on the T/A, but...
I'd be worried about the hub diameter and interference with that...
#6
Re: Want to run these wheels on the T/A, but...
o.k. they can work BUT first off id do 18x9.5 all around. i went with bmw fit wheels on my car and had minor issues, the center hub on the front is too long. with mine it was only the cover that gave me issues, i removed the nut cover on the hub packed it well with grease and installed a hollow rubber ball cut in half over the hub to seal the it ,, saved me enough room to fit my center caps on my wheels. The rears had no clearence issues except on the lower front corner of the inner wheel well but this was easily fixed with a hammer and 2 blows to the sheetmetal there. As you can see in the pic they fit , no spacers, 275's up front, 285's in back
Last edited by prossi; 07-31-2012 at 03:54 PM.
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Car: 87' IROC
Engine: L98
Transmission: T56
Re: Want to run these wheels on the T/A, but...
http://www.discounttiredirect.com/di...1&wd=18&rw=9.5
I'm wondering if the front hubs (stock discs) on the car will clear the center caps? (not protrude thru the rim) They appear to be very shallow in the center. I Want to run 17x8, (or 17x8.5) fronts, and 18x9.5 on rear. Any thoughts / advice? Should I order one rim and see if it will clear, then if not send it back? There are no specs on how deep or thick the wheel is @ the center bore, just lists 72mm center bore diam, or 73.5mm center bore diam available. Otherwise, they look like they will work perfectly.
I'm wondering if the front hubs (stock discs) on the car will clear the center caps? (not protrude thru the rim) They appear to be very shallow in the center. I Want to run 17x8, (or 17x8.5) fronts, and 18x9.5 on rear. Any thoughts / advice? Should I order one rim and see if it will clear, then if not send it back? There are no specs on how deep or thick the wheel is @ the center bore, just lists 72mm center bore diam, or 73.5mm center bore diam available. Otherwise, they look like they will work perfectly.
Also, make sure you do your research about running the wrong bolt pattern on your car. I do not recommend it.
Last edited by 87350IROC; 07-31-2012 at 08:42 PM.
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Car: 86 Trans Am, 92 Firebird
Engine: 408 sbc, 3.1L of raw power
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Axle/Gears: Moser 9", 3:70 trutac, 3:23 torsion
Re: Want to run these wheels on the T/A, but...
I don't see an offset listed, unless I missed it.
The bore is 72.6, typical bmw size. Its unlikely you will be able to use a centercap on the front, I have similar wheels and its not even close.
The bore is 72.6, typical bmw size. Its unlikely you will be able to use a centercap on the front, I have similar wheels and its not even close.
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Car: 88 T/A. TOTALLED!! (not by me)
Engine: TPI 5.0
Transmission: 700r4 Auto
Axle/Gears: 2.73 posi
Re: Want to run these wheels on the T/A, but...
These wheels are available with two diff hub bore diameters; 72mm and 74mm. They are available in 18x8.5 +15,+30,&+40mm offset, and in 18x9.5 with +15,+25,+30 and +45 offset. Also in 17x8 with +15,+30 and +40 offset.
http://www.beyernwheels.com/
The spindle protruding too far to clear the center cap looks like it would be my main issue of concern. I would want to run the 17x8" or 18x8.5" +15mm on front, which would give me a 5.1" backspacing (with the 8" width). On back I would be using the 18x9.5 +15mm which would give 5.84" backspacing. Tire widths are not firm, nor is lowering the car. It would all depend on working around what fits and clears as far as the rims are concerned...I guess in this case, It's all about customization. As far as the bolt pattern is concerned, it is 5 on 120mm. 0.6mm diam (or. 0.3mm radius) difference from the stock wheels, which is about the thickness of a couple of sheets of printer paper. I believe that when using 60 degree tapered lug nuts, this is not enough to be a concern because the design itself tends to be a relatively sloppy fit to begin with, at least until all the lugs are tightened. Others are running wheels with this pattern with no issues, which also tells me it should not be a problem. It Looks like I have 4 options now.
1. Do what Brando said and run more b/s and add a small spacer behind the wheel. (fronts)
2. Do what prossi said and modify/remove the bearing caps. (front)
3. Use the front wheels with no center caps (really NOT an option, at least not for me)
4. Use different wheels altogether...but which ones? Hmmmm......
John C.
http://www.beyernwheels.com/
The spindle protruding too far to clear the center cap looks like it would be my main issue of concern. I would want to run the 17x8" or 18x8.5" +15mm on front, which would give me a 5.1" backspacing (with the 8" width). On back I would be using the 18x9.5 +15mm which would give 5.84" backspacing. Tire widths are not firm, nor is lowering the car. It would all depend on working around what fits and clears as far as the rims are concerned...I guess in this case, It's all about customization. As far as the bolt pattern is concerned, it is 5 on 120mm. 0.6mm diam (or. 0.3mm radius) difference from the stock wheels, which is about the thickness of a couple of sheets of printer paper. I believe that when using 60 degree tapered lug nuts, this is not enough to be a concern because the design itself tends to be a relatively sloppy fit to begin with, at least until all the lugs are tightened. Others are running wheels with this pattern with no issues, which also tells me it should not be a problem. It Looks like I have 4 options now.
1. Do what Brando said and run more b/s and add a small spacer behind the wheel. (fronts)
2. Do what prossi said and modify/remove the bearing caps. (front)
3. Use the front wheels with no center caps (really NOT an option, at least not for me)
4. Use different wheels altogether...but which ones? Hmmmm......
John C.
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Car: 87' IROC
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Re: Want to run these wheels on the T/A, but...
[QUOTE=88PontiacT/A;5342842]
The spindle protruding too far to clear the center cap looks like it would be my main issue of concern. I would want to run the 17x8" or 18x8.5" +15mm on front, which would give me a 5.1" backspacing (with the 8" width). On back I would be using the 18x9.5 +15mm which would give 5.84" backspacing. Tire widths are not firm, nor is lowering the car. It would all depend on working around what fits and clears as far as the rims are concerned...I guess in this case, It's all about customization. As far as the bolt pattern is concerned, it is 5 on 120mm. 0.6mm diam (or. 0.3mm radius) difference from the stock wheels, which is about the thickness of a couple of sheets of printer paper. I believe that when using 60 degree tapered lug nuts, this is not enough to be a concern because the design itself tends to be a relatively sloppy fit to begin with, at least until all the lugs are tightened. Others are running wheels with this pattern with no issues, which also tells me it should not be a problem. It Looks like I have 4 options now.
I suspect the spindles are going to stick out way to far to simply run a small spacer or remove the bearing caps. You may have to do both and maybe more. You can gain ~3/16" by cutting off the extra threads / snout of the spindle. Only way to know for sure is get a measurement of the wheel center thickness.
Like I said, do your OWN research. Don't trust some clown on here who says he has been running them for 50 years with no issues.
The fact is the bolt pattern is different. That means when you go to tighten the lugs, the lug meets the taper off center. As you tighten the lug it forces itself into the wheel taper. This causes the stud to bend. Fasteners are not designed to take bending. They are designed to provide clamp up in the joint. When you have complex loading (tension and bending) you loose strength. You are compromising the strength of the studs by using wheels with the wrong bolt pattern. There are examples online of people loosing a wheel while driving because of this. Just because it works for one guy today doesn't mean it won't break on him tomorrow.
86TA has a great thread on how to modify the seat to the correct pattern. You may want to considering doing it if you end up with BMW wheels.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/whee...t-pattern.html
The spindle protruding too far to clear the center cap looks like it would be my main issue of concern. I would want to run the 17x8" or 18x8.5" +15mm on front, which would give me a 5.1" backspacing (with the 8" width). On back I would be using the 18x9.5 +15mm which would give 5.84" backspacing. Tire widths are not firm, nor is lowering the car. It would all depend on working around what fits and clears as far as the rims are concerned...I guess in this case, It's all about customization. As far as the bolt pattern is concerned, it is 5 on 120mm. 0.6mm diam (or. 0.3mm radius) difference from the stock wheels, which is about the thickness of a couple of sheets of printer paper. I believe that when using 60 degree tapered lug nuts, this is not enough to be a concern because the design itself tends to be a relatively sloppy fit to begin with, at least until all the lugs are tightened. Others are running wheels with this pattern with no issues, which also tells me it should not be a problem. It Looks like I have 4 options now.
1. Do what Brando said and run more b/s and add a small spacer behind the wheel. (fronts)
2. Do what prossi said and modify/remove the bearing caps. (front)
3. Use the front wheels with no center caps (really NOT an option, at least not for me)
4. Use different wheels altogether...but which ones? Hmmmm......
2. Do what prossi said and modify/remove the bearing caps. (front)
3. Use the front wheels with no center caps (really NOT an option, at least not for me)
4. Use different wheels altogether...but which ones? Hmmmm......
As far as the bolt pattern is concerned, it is 5 on 120mm. 0.6mm diam (or. 0.3mm radius) difference from the stock wheels, which is about the thickness of a couple of sheets of printer paper. I believe that when using 60 degree tapered lug nuts, this is not enough to be a concern because the design itself tends to be a relatively sloppy fit to begin with, at least until all the lugs are tightened. Others are running wheels with this pattern with no issues, which also tells me it should not be a problem.
The fact is the bolt pattern is different. That means when you go to tighten the lugs, the lug meets the taper off center. As you tighten the lug it forces itself into the wheel taper. This causes the stud to bend. Fasteners are not designed to take bending. They are designed to provide clamp up in the joint. When you have complex loading (tension and bending) you loose strength. You are compromising the strength of the studs by using wheels with the wrong bolt pattern. There are examples online of people loosing a wheel while driving because of this. Just because it works for one guy today doesn't mean it won't break on him tomorrow.
86TA has a great thread on how to modify the seat to the correct pattern. You may want to considering doing it if you end up with BMW wheels.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/whee...t-pattern.html
#11
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Car: 88 T/A. TOTALLED!! (not by me)
Engine: TPI 5.0
Transmission: 700r4 Auto
Axle/Gears: 2.73 posi
Re: Want to run these wheels on the T/A, but...
86TA has a great thread on how to modify the seat to the correct pattern. You may want to considering doing it if you end up with BMW wheels.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/wh...t-pattern.html (BMW wheel bolt pattern/PCD correction, 120mm to 120.65mm)
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/wh...t-pattern.html (BMW wheel bolt pattern/PCD correction, 120mm to 120.65mm)
Thanks again.
John C.
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