Short n sweet version,
Im in process of my widebody build. Rear quaters are pretty much done and am lookin for wheels so I can adjust if needed n start fronts.

I found a set of CCW that im very much considering, but am not sure.
Think im over thibking it, but also think I might be approaching it wrong.

So question is.
Spacers, are they that weak, I keep hearing they are under load.

The challenge is to get out atleast 2" (2.5" would be perfect) as per stock gta rims.
The ccw are 18x12 rears with 7.5bs
My question is, would the 2"spacer allow me to clear the 5.5" 3rd gens minm?
But now how do I fig the offset?
Im hoping to go test fit this weekend...

But I dont think itll come out enough.

Anyone have advice or thoughts on this. Or options on a rim thatll have enough offset?

 

With 18's you can run 6.5" of back spacing with very minor hamering of the front lower wheel well.

Those wheels would need a 1" spacer to fit, 2" would give you much more inner wheel well room, but idk what kind of outboard cleance you have.

6.5" of bs will put you 2" out from a set of 'front' gta wheels on the back, or 1.375 from a set of rears. 5.5" of bs will put you 2.375 out, requiring a 2" spacer. A 2.25" spacer will make it 2.625 out which is close to where u want it.

There is always the tape measure method, just keep in mind a 12" wheel measures about 13" wide overall

 

Assuming you're dealing with CCW classic's you can change out the shells one at a time to get what you need. Nothing but custom wheels will work at that width. My rear fenders have been sectioned to the frame rail. I have room for 8" BS now in back. I've got 7.25" BS up front, but my hubs are about 1/2" wider. You may be able to fit 6.75 BS up front with some loss of steering angle and moving the strut to spindle bolts toward positive camber for wheel to strut clearance.

Do you have any photo's of your centers? My centers run about 3/4" less BS than the barrel. So my 8.5" barrels have 7.75" BS. For CP I'm planning on running 18x12's and will need a 1/4" spacer if I just put on 9" barrels in the back. I may have to see if CCW will sell me a pair of centers when I kill the current hoosiers.

I love the look of the classic's with a deep lip:

 

whoa whoa whoa whoa
good God, praise the rim lords, wtf... those rims you have on a car are absolutely wicked.
and definitely more of what I'm looking for, the lips I like the deep dish.

I will post the pictures of the second I'm looking at now, which are not the dishes... not bad yours, but have the width n size I want.

I am making a rear valance, that will kill a lot of the empty space you would see under the car once the tires (stance) are wider.

but the rums I'm looking at are used, at 2000 with nice tires.
originally I was going to do vette rims, for size, but really would like to advoid the flatter styles for a couple reasons n that would run me close to the $ame.

So I was considering this option, even if I come up short 1 inch per side, hey fourth gen swap may be possible to get within reason.

I really don't care if it's hellaflush or stance tight...just want close.

what I am confused about it is, theoretically.... if I put a 2 inch spacer on my stock rims right now, what in the spaces move my entire room location to inches out?


but not ask you a question, because I am hoping that someone more familiar with the market and current industry what have some good insight on how to do this....
what do you mean by changing out the centers? On CCW rims?

 

These are the ones I go see tomorrow

 

Hmmmmm, LM20's are nice, and pilot sports are really good high dollar tires. That black powder coating looks mean too. That explains the 1/4" difference in offset.

The wheels are 3-piece with the bolts holding them together and rtv sealing them. So there are the lips (outer shell), the center (aka faces), and the barrels (inner shell). For $250 (used to be $150 ) per lip or barrel you can replace them and essentially make the wheel whatever width or offset you want. Used parts are also out there if you're willing to look, but anything larger than 3" lips are hard to find.

I'm guessing 2" spacers would give you plenty of space inboard. The "front" spacing on those will be 5.5. which is just a little more than I can fit with my rolled fenders.

 

Well I feel stupid....but yeah I get, what your saying, just didnt realize I could do that.
But at 250$each...i might as well as start at square one n just order a package from ccw.
This option really is just an opertunity. I really like the rims and im doing lil paint work ($500 barder)+ 2000 (which is the only $ outta my pocket)
Fig shoot....cant complain, nice rims n nice tires.

3" lip would be perfect, as for look, because the lip would appear deep then it is with the wide body, I just dont want the skin jeans look from rear either, so atleast 10"...

Nore do I really want to put on 3" spacers either...still lil worried about that.

what are your sizes? How much lip do you have n whats the bs/os...that mayhelp me put the numbers to vision...

 

not a fan of spacers. i sheared all 5 studs off an axle because of them once. i guess it depends how hard your gonna play and with what tires? that was with slicks.

 

If you're thinking about going the wheel spacer route, forget those and use hub centric wheel adapters instead. They're much safer than spacers.

 

I love the centers on these rims, I think a style like this with a machined lip or wheels like roostmeyers has with black centers in a 12in width rear 10in width front would look great on your wide body project, A three inch lip would look cool in the rear and maybe a two inch in front But that's just my .

 

Yeah I keep hearing stories like that....freakin me out, although I dont intend slick....still

 

Oooooooo they are nice....yeah ive heard of these, but never heard of them in large sizes

 

Awwww, dude you beat me to it...yeah, I was thinking of polishing lips.

 

This sucks though, there are a few ppl also interested in set n guy is looking for a ye or ne with em.
Ima try to get ta up there tomorrow now to kinda test fit, but neither of us have spacers to gage it...

I dont really think its gonna work...think im still 2"less...n I could get ccw on line.

 

Still gonna try, lolg

 

I never had any issues with them when I ran them with 18x10.5 z06 wheels, but I have had a bad finish to a day at the sand dunes on a RZR with spacers. My theory is the lugs loosen up on the spacer to hub but w/o an easy way to check them they move around and eventually shear off the lugs.

 

i should mention when my studs broke, it was a 7,000rpm+ shift. i think the 12 inch slicks had alot to do with it? never did find the tire, lol. luckily it was a 78 camaro with traction bars. so the rear didnt drop too far and no real damage happened.
what if you swap in a 4th gen rear,...wouldnt that kick the rims out some?

 

yeah I'm starting to notice lakes have a lot to do thses, studs snapping.
I am definitely not looking to drive the car anymore than I am looking to run slicks, so I guess for the most part.
I am safe

besides no matter what Rim I run I am almost guaranteed to have to run to in spacers....
I am almost guaranteed to need that 4th swap.

So hunt is on.

Now just need to desided, if I get these CCW's
Or maybe the MMT GT1's

 

you can have your axle housing widened or narrowed, just have to run custom axles

 

Well that I would believe would be the most professional approach.
Just dont know if thatll be an option...but perhapse should atleast google...im pretty sure Ithere is nothing local

 

properly installed adapters will not create anymore stress on the lugs than a wheel with the correct backspacing, it's a very basic statics problem. The loads in the aluminum spacer between the studs would be my only concern with the spacers failing.

All of the claimed stud failures are likely due to improper install or conditions that would have sheared the studs in a direct wheel to axle connection.

 

Agreed. Studs arent going to snap unless you maybe use spacers which arent a good idea for this.

However, unless he keeps the contact patch centered in the factory location, it will put a LOT more stress on the front wheel bearings.

 

yes and the stress on the studs will increase some, but still that should not be an issue. I actually drew up a badass spacer concept but it would have been just as much as buying proper fitting wheels LOL.

 

The stress on the studs will not change. As has been mentioned, this is a simple statics problem. Once the lugs are tightened the weight of the car is not going through the studs, it's going through the wheel and the hub. If the studs/adapter/lugs are loose then yes it will go through the studs and you will have problems. Properly torqued it will be completely irrelevant.

Moving the center of the contact patch outwards 2-4 inches will significantly increase the amount of force going through each wheel bearing. Think of it like using a breaker bar. Now if you can expand the contact patch inwards towards the car just as far as you expand it outwards it wont matter as much.

 

it will increase the axial stress in the studs because the bending moment at the hub (studs) connection will increase due to the longer "breaker bar" (moment arm). The studs take 100% of the axial load/force at the connection. Basic statics problem LOL

The shear stress in the studs will remain the same - which is what i think you are referring to?

 

for the record, my lug nuts were tightened properly. i was street driving with slicks. dumb idea. the spacers i was using were only like 1/4-1/2 inch thick. stock studs. i just picture things getting out of balance with spacers. im sure you can get a car to roll with spacers, but is it weaker then stock? i do like the ones Carlos posted a pic of, but id rather have the right fitting wheels. JMO.

 

stock studs, spacers (not adapters!), and slicks. That explains quite a bit

Spacers are not adapters, spacers just slide over the studs and do increase the stress on the studs because they cause the studs to be in bending, and like you said possible misalignment issues. Bolt on adapters, which is what infernal and I were talking about are not, 100%, NOT weaker than stock when looking at the studs.

The aluminum spacers are an additional failure point with the offset load path from the offset studs but it's more often the studs that people are concerned with. (which is funny!)

 

Yeah, that's what I meant. Im cramming pretty hard for a differential equations exam and a dynamics exam next monday and my brain is all fubar'd.