Hello, we just bought an 88 iroc z and I am having some trouble figuring out where to set my floor jack to lift the car. The pinch welds near the tires are all bent and I can’t use those points.

I am having trouble especially on the passenger side since the exhaust pipe goes right under the floor right there.

The goal is to lift the car high enough to set on jack stands for oil changes and other maintenance. (so also need to know the safest place to set those as well.)

I am new to this generation of Camaro so any insights would definitely be useful.

thanks

 

I used to lift from the rear diff housing and/or the front cross member. You can also lift from the unitbody "frame rails" on either side of the trans/bellhousing, but that metal CAN deform from the tabs on the jack pad, so a piece of wood is recommended if lifting on the "tin". I've always avoided those areas on F-bods.

 

If you have a low profile jack you can use the center point of the K-member(front subframe?) to lift the front end. Or just behind the passenger side front wheel on the other side of the exhaust there is a corner of thicker boxed support metal that I also have used.

 

ok and did you just use a normal floor jack to lift at the crossmember?

The air dam is in the way of the jack.

asking since it’s very far from the front of the car and could not pump the handle on the jack. I’m using a 2 ton black jack.

 

and you have not had any problems?

i could definitely try that.

have you ever lifted from the crossmember? Since that air dam under the radiator is so low I’m not sure how to get the jack there with out removing that plastic.

and where do you put you jack stands?

 

Sometimes it helps to turn the front wheels all the way to one side, then sneak the jack in between the front tire (the end of the tire that is "out") and the air dam.

Sometimes that's good enough, some times it only gets the jack pad under the closer side of the cross (K) member but you can still jack it up about 8", the front susp will extend and go though an arc in it's travel. Let it back down and the susp will bind due to that arc, so the car won't "settle" as low, so you can then get the jack further under the cross (K) member and then get a good lift at that point.

I put the jack stands under something substantial....not "tin". Rear? Under the axle, in most cases. Front? Where the Cross (K) Member meets the control arms, is a strong, stable, safe place. Here are various pics....

 

No you need specifically a low profile jack to get under the dam and still it contacts when you set the car down.
You might want to try the boxed frame area with a heavy duty cushion, like a few old leather work or welding gloves or one of those decorative pillows the wife loves to put on the couch. If its not raining tomorrow I`ll take some pics underneath.

Also reference Tom 400`s pics. I use that spot where the jack stand is to lift with a regular jack but cannot recall where I set the stands.

 

These are the lifting points.

 

I have a long reach, low profile, harbor freight jack and had to shimmy underneath and remove the air dam to jack up the IROC. It just barely makes it by on the sport coupe.

 

If I drive the front of my 1LE on 2x10's I can get a floor jack to the K member The jack has to be on a 45* angle and it takes forever to lift because you can only stroke an inch or so to begin. Also very important there is no oil on the K member and the jack wheels can freely roll because you are lifting on an angle.

Reaching traditional front jacking points with a floor jack is impossible due to the side exhausts. I finally broke down last week and bought a set of QuickJacks.

 

Quickjacks were the first place we went, but fought with placement for 15m before giving up. The stock exhaust goes so far out on the passenger side I didn't have thick enough blocks to make contact before hitting it. Don't have that problem on the '87, nor side skirts to worry about.

 

I hear you. I used the taller blocks and the jack definitely makes contact with the heat shield on the cat. It's been squished a bit already from extensive on track activities and neighborhood speed bumps.
I have not yet tried to lift my 4th gen, but hope for similar results.
So far, so good.

 

If you install the DSE subframe connectors you can jack the car up anywhere along the side of the car! For stock, I echo driving up on some boards to gain access under the k-member.

 

If you're jacking on a smooth surface, you can slide the jack between the side of the air dam and tire, then lift at the center of the front crossmember until the jack clears, then pivot / roll the jack to center and continue.

It will clear before the front tires leave the ground so the car doesn't shake too bad this way.

 

Ayuh.

 

I go in from the side with tires straight though. If I had to be turning the wheel and relying on suspension bind with multiple up/downs, you'd find me buying a new jack in 24hrs.

 

Me too. I was trying to help the OP....right now. It sounds like he HAS a jack, wants to change oil....that is a way he can do it. Right now. The up/down thing takes about 10 seconds, and while isn't ideal, it's yet another tip/trick that works.
He can figure out what jack he needs for the longer term on his own....one would hope.

 

It's not rocket-surgery.
I jack the front under the front K-member.
The rear under the rear differential.
I put jack stands under the frame rails or under the axle tubes.
The diagram in post #8 above is perfect...