the details are listed in the thread in the GROUP PURCHASES forum.

 

Well, this is the original thread where it all got started, but I thought it would be appropriate to make sure that the info was there also. And since this thread has gotten so large, it might well be time to move the discussion there anyway.

EDIT: IMPORTANT UPDATE in the thread on the GP board - everyone please read!!!

 

spdfrk, still have the rear cover? I would like to buy

 

Sry I sold it a month or so ago.

 

Hey guys, I'm not trying to be a gravedigger (digging up old posts), but thought I'd share the latest with ya..

We've got four people who have placed orders so far - at least that's how many people that the vendor is aware of.

After having done the legwork to get this going, I'm pretty comfortable in saying that this is the best deal you're going to find on a 9-bolt cover, period. If you've been interested in one of these, or (especially!) if you've said that you're in for one but haven't ordered yet, you'll probably want to make the time to do so - he's already mentioned setting an "end date" for this GP (like in a week or so...).

Thanks guys!

EDIT: Thought you guys would appreciate knowing that we've hit our target of 10 people:

Quote:

There are 10 paid orders as of 10PM EST on 2/23/07, I will be placing the order on Monday..

Thanks guys!

 

Hey, not sure if you are still doing this or not, I recently purchased one of these and will not need it now, as the car is going to stay bone stock, due to the T/A project. It is new in the box and I will sell it for $150 shipped to USA, or make me an offer.

I am definitely a believer in these and will be ordering one for my 00' T/A. I had one on my O2' SS and ran Nitto Drag Radials and I am convinced this made my rearend live!!

 

let me know when there made i need a new cover

 

Might want to check the dates before posting. These are from 2007. The T/A covers are on the market and have been for awhile now.

 

Yep and mine's still in the box... trying to find a good speed shop to put in gears too. Let me just say it's a very nice piece.

 

Can you give me the outside dimensions and the aprox.weight of the cover please?
I want to order one next month during our Florida vacation, and take it with me in the plane home to the Netherlands!
I'm trying to figure out if I can take it with my as cabinlugage, or maybe checked in lugage.

Thanks very much, Peter.

 

Sure if I make it out to the garage today I'll grab the measurements. I've been fighting with the carb tuning so more than likely I'll be out there.

 

According to Just Differentials eBay store:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/87-90...Q5fAccessories

the covers average 7 pounds.

 

Yep I just weighed mine came in right around 6.5 lbs that's counting the stud kit too. Box is 10" x 9.75" x 3.5" that TA performance ships it in also.

 

Thank you both for this usefull information!
I guess it would be no problem to take it with me as cabin luggage...!

 

I hope they don't get silly and consider it a potential weapon as carry-on. I can't imagine having it in a checked bag being a problem though.

 

I'll ask Continental Airlines for the best way to take it with me, either as carry-on or checked luggage.

 

What is the purpose of the stud kit..??

 

It applies a slight pressure against the bearing caps, giving them extra support and keeping them from moving around during heavy loads. This movement can damage the gears, destroying the rear end.

 

no the studs provide a pulling force only in the housing whereas a bolt applies tension and twist. the studs are for the caps not the cover, the bots for the cap preload come with all covers, studs were an option

 

Thats right, thanks for clearing that up. I thought he was asking about the preload studs. They are studs with a jam/lock nut.

What do you mean by twist?

 

A stud loosely threads in all the way and as such when the nut is tightened it pulls against all the threads along the length of the stud, not just a few and completely straight. A bolt threads into the threads and as it goes tighter it starts to deform the threads and the material around it. As such it puts force on less threads. The stud is far superior.

 

I disagree. A properly sized bolt will engage just as many threads as a stud. When the nut is tightened, it pulls and deforms the hole threads just as much as a bolt. The advantage is not having the weaker area of the bolt head and more precise torque value (less friction from fewer threads having to "twist" in the hole. I get you now, Scooter). A stud IS better, but I wouldn't call it far superior.

 

No it won't you can not have the bolt so long that it pulls on all threads, a bolt will nver bottom out. You are also forgetting the critical fact that as the bolt draws tight you still have to turn it, it twists into the threads under load. The stud threads in finger tight, engages all threads and as such is stronger.

 

OK, but at what torque do you have to set the bolts that come with the cover, and what torque is need for the stud kit...???

 

Best to ask the cover manufacturer for the pre-load bolt torque. The '86 manual gives cover bolt torque as 30 ft-lb (41 N-m) and the bearing caps as 60 lb-ft (81 N-m). But these are for a 7-5/8" Auburn limited-slip. I don't know if the 9 bolt is different. I would start a new thread asking for those specs.


No, I didn't forget; A "properly" sized bolt should come to within a few threads of bottoming. Unless your building an ultra-high performance what-ever, a bolt works just as well. I did agree with you that a stud is better...

 

Well, I guess there's a manual that comes with the cover when you order it, but I was just curious...

 

If anyone has the direction sheet I would like to see it. I have misplaced mine somewhere. As for comparing the bolt to stud one main point is peace of mind. You're upgrading from an OEM bolt to an ARP high tensile strength stud. For the additonal $16 or whatever they charge in my opinion it's well worth it.

The direction sheet covers installing the studs, caps, and preloading the cover. I remember a few years back when I read it you need to grind/sand down the outside of the cap to provide a flatter surface so the bearing preload feet make more contact.

 

Absolutely! The whole reason for using a pre-load cover is to help increase the overall strength of the rear. The stud kit is well worth the cost.

 

I purchased the stud kit when I bought mine for the reasons mentioned above.

 

I have the instructions but no scanner. Here is a quick overview

Due to manufacturing process for the 9 bolt rear bearing caps, they must be marked for position and then removed to grind, sand, or machine the ouside edge of the bearing cap. This will provide a flat surface for the load bolt to seat against.
If using the recommended bearing cap stud kit do the following:
A. Removed the original bolts holding the caps one side at a time
B. Install studs, and torque studs into the housing no more than 10ft/lbs
C. Re-install bearing caps and torque nuts to 50ft/lbs with oil
Back load bolts out to clear the bearing caps, but do not remove them, failingto back out the load bolts may damage the cover or bearing caps
Install the TA Performance girdle
Torque the mouting bolts to 25ft/lbs (max)
screw the load bolts in by hand until they make contact with the bearing caps. Torque the load bolts to 5-10ft/lbs MAXIMUM, excessive torque will result in distorted bearing caps. DO NO OVER TORQUE THE LOAD BOLTS!! Then snug or torque the jamb nuts to 20ft/lbs to lock the load bolt

 

Thanks!!!!

 

Well, I got mine at last...
We're in Florida right now, I hope I don't get any problems taking the cover with me in the plane back home next saterday...
Btw, it's amazing to notice that ( almost) all the thirdgen's have dissapeared from the streets overhere.....a lot has changed during my 11 year absence in the USA...!!

 

No problems with customs at all.
So all I have to do is get me some SAE Hex tools to install the girdle...
Btw, I ordered the girdle at National Performance Warehouse www.npwcatalog.com in Miami ( Hialeah), George, who helped me, did a great job in answering all my email questions and finally in ordering the parts, recommend them !!

 

I didn't see any specific instructions on the net for the 1802 (9 bolt) girdle so I am uploading mine for anyone that needs them in the future.

 

If you don't mind, I've added it to my 9 bolt page as well:

http://www.scottwardlaw.com/9Bolt/

 

The instructions don't mention Loctite on the jamb nuts.

Is there a reason it’s not used?

 

Best guess would be that its not "needed"

I have had my cover on for the better part of 20k miles and I haven't had any problems with them.

That said, the little added security is appealing. I'll probably dab a little on next time they're off.