I have searched and still have numerous questions about this. "If you are starting a complete build of a 350" Where would you start? I want a daily driver with around 325 HP and 325 fp torque. I have a 700r4 rebuilt trans and a fourth gen rear end. The car is an 86 Trans Am, with a carbuerator.
1) What block, years, casting numbers?
2) Prep work on the block?
3) Heads, part numbers (any work needed on these)
4) All parts for the rebuild, part numbers (brands)
5) Any compatability problems to watch for?
6) Any computer parts I will need to re-use or to add?
I have swapped engines from one car to another but this will be my first complete rebuild and need some answers. Thanks in advance.........

 

Define a budget first. That is the basis for all the parts chosen.

A big factor may be cam selection. Since yours shouldn't be a roller cam, it doesn't really matter either way. You have no roller components that can be reused. So a flat tappet block is ok (flat tappet block being a block that isn't machined for factory roller hardware). If you get a factory roller block, you can reuse some factory roller hardware, although I am not a fan of their design. I like the retro fit link bar design myself. That is, IF you want hydraulic roller. Otherwise, just get a pre-roller block (pre-86) and put a flat tappet cam in there. As for blocks, a 350 block is a 350 block, for the most part, and FWIW, most will do (considering the amoung of power you are planning). A common, very popular casting is the "010" block. These are the high nickel content blocks and are very common from the 70's. They come in 2 or 4 bolt mains, trucks usually got the 4 bolts IIRC. No need to really worry abou the 2 or 4 bolt mains as both will hold up to the power you plan for. As far as machine work goes, bring the block to a shop. Have the head mounting pad milled flat, zero decked, whatever, just make sure it's flat. As for the cylinder bores, if it's an older block, you will probably have to bore it .030" (this does NOT make it a 355, an overbore is merely a maintainance routine, not a modification that changes the name of the block). If it's a later block, i.e. factory roller, a hone may be all that is needed. Don't overbore if you don't have to. You make no noticable power from that, like I said, it's merely a maintainance routine. Basically I like to do all my own work to it. I have the block in the shop only to machine it. I take it there, have it cleaned up then take it back. Before I begin to assemble it, I take it to the coin wash and blast it thoroughly to make sure all the metal shavings are out and whatnot. Once it's good to go, compressed air to dry it out. Then I shove the cam bearings in. It's not hard with the right tool.

Heads make the power. Get as much cylinder head as you possible can or the money. Don't skimp out here. You will thank yourself later. Depending on budget, you can reuse the heads you have now. Take them off, bring them to the shop and have the guide bosses milled down (more lift). Might want to have the valve spring pocket increased (that depends on the spring, which depends on the cam). Have them milled to restore flatness, if needed. Have them machined for 350 sized valves (1.94/1.6). Really no need to go 2.02 on the intake. Once you get them back, take an electric die grinder, get a variable speed controller and port the heck out of them. Again, heads make the power so don't hold back. If money allows, perhaps look into aftermarket castings. Oh, if you reuse them and do have the guide boss milled, might want to machine for positive type valve seals as well. Fel-Pro does make Viton positive seals that use the factory boss diameter. All others (Comp, Crane, Manley, etc) requrie machine work. Another thing to have done is get rid of the pull out studs and get screw in studs and guide plates installed.

Parts for the rebuild: everything under the covers. You can snag a used 350 crank and reuse that. Rods, too, if you wish. If you decide to do the rods, at least have new bolts installed (I like ARP Wav-Loc). If you have new bolts put in, they will need resizing. As for pistons, I used Federal Mogul cast pistons in my last rebuild for my Caprice, but that's shooting for low performance. Some great pieces from what I've heard are the Kieth Black series hypereutectics. Don't cost an arm and a leg, either. If you plan for any major power boosters, might want to peek at forged. Part numbers depend on what you get. If you get a factory crank, it will probably need the journals resized, so get the appropriate bearings. And upon assembly, plastigauge is a cheap and barely reliably method for doing things correctly. Get the right feeler gauge and properly check the clearances and what not.

As for compatability, the biggest thing is carb versus EFI. Which route are you taking? But judging by the next question, I am lead to believe EFI.

Try searching under different terms perhaps, I KNOW this kind of stuff has come up before.

 

No, actually I am going carb. If I made the switch to EFI, I would need an entire EFI setup from a donar car and I don't know if the difference between carb and EFI would be worth the trouble. The car is carbed now. As far as budget, I would like to keep it around the 2k area. I don't need some monster show motor, just a reliable street engine with modest power and torque. Thanks for the reply.......

 

I would build a 4 bolt 350
9:1 compression, vortec heads and a mild flat tappet camshaft like the XE268. As for a bottom end, sounds like hyp. pistons and a GM PM rod would work fine. This setup should net you around 350 horsepower.

 

Then no computer controls that you will have to be concerned with. Everything is pretty independant of itself, as far as input/output signals are concerned. That is, assuming you are going the non-cc route. If you are staying with the q-jet, you need to retain all the sensors and whatnot. Up to you on which route you want to take as far as carbs go.

EFI/carb has no difference as far as block or head work comes. Or the rotating assembly. The only internal thing that can change is cam selection. No need to worry about anything being too radical for EFI. However, of course, things can be too radical period. The Xe274h (hydraulic flat tappet) or the Xe276hr (hydraulic roller) both are great street cams that offer a good balance of streetability with top end power and grunt. They both pull suffient vacuum and work well with street gears. But that is perhaps another issue.

For a budget, I would recommend flat tappet. Comp offers the K-kit, which for a flat tappet runs about $350-$400, depending on cam grind. The nice thing about these, is they come with the cam, lifters, timing set, valve springs, locks, retainers, assembly lube. Pretty much all you need except the pushrods. The springs and hardware are all appropriately matched. The Xe268h or 274h would both be good grinds to look into, of course, depending on what you want powerband wise.

Perhaps the best thing to do is to go to the junkyard and get an entire 350. You can get away with a short block probably. Unless you find an L98 or something, the heads on the 350 will more than likely be smogger crap heads that you will end up getting rid of. Depending on what heads you have now, they may be the best choice. Consider reusing them (after porting them yourself and getting them machined for larger valves and more lift.) Let's say you follow this route. I'm pretty sure you have read the valve sizes. I have a set (416's) that flow just shy of Vortecs with minimal effort. I have had larger valves installed as well. Depending on how i cam the engine, I have either a set of Comp 981 springs (for a flat tappet cam) or a set of Isky 235-D springs (hydra-roller). The 235's share springs specs similar to the 986/7 springs but fit in the factory pockets as they are 1.26" OD/.886" ID (single outer with inner damper coil). They are a great spring good for about .550 lift.

With this new engine you pulled, do what I said about the rods and crank and having them set up. The crank will probably get a makeover so new bearings for that makeover will be needed. I like Federal Mogul bearings for all 3 (cam, main, and rod). As for pistons, I've used cast pistons and they hold up fine for a street motor. I have hypers going in the new engine. The casts were made my Federal Mogul, the hypers also by F-M. Kieth Black also makes good hypereutectic pistons. You will probably need .030" pistons/rings as the block will probably need that. Follow the block prep as above. About 9:1-10:1 is adequate compression for a street motor. Flat top with valve reliefs are the best bet for pistons. Make compression through the size of the valve reliefs and primarily the chamber size (mill the heads, get the right head gaskets).

Melling makes great oiling system parts. The M-55 for the pump, the 55-S for the screen. Get an ARP drive shaft. No need for the HV pump unless you run some aftermarket oil cooler or increased bearing clearances, which I doubt you will.

This brings me to the biggest issue. What are you doing for carb's? the q-jet is the best thing for fuel economy and power when you want it. Obviously carb selection will effect distributor choice.

For a budget, if you get a flat tappet block, use a flat tappet cam. If you get a factory roller block, use a factory roller cam. Keep in mind, a lot of cars got 2 bolt mains, trucks often times got the 4's. But you really need not worry yourself about which to get as both will hold the power you plan on creating. Here's a quick list that gives you an idea:

350 block (flat tappet), have it machined as needed
re-use the crank
re-use rods (resized and ARP wav-loc bolts)
Hypereutectic pistons, probably .030" and correct rings
Federal Mogul bearings all around
brass freeze plugs
Get a Comp K kit for a flat tappet cam
Reuse the heads and have them machined "to work with your setup"
Melling oiling system like above (stock pan can be used)
The ZZ4 intake is a great intake, emissions complient if need be. Accepts both square and spread bore patterns
Use the carb of choice
If you go non-cc, mallory makes a good dizzy with coil for about $160.
Pioneer balancer (one of the better factory replacements I've seen)
Any generic timing cover with the tab at ~1:30
Fel-Pro gasket kit
not sure if it comes with the kit, but get Fel-Pro Viton valve seals. they are the positive type
Comp magnum rocker arms (these are the best budget rocker IMO)

That gives you a rough idea of what a build would look like. You can play around with parts lists and whatnot as you see fit.

 

I really appreciate all of the information given. It does give me a much better understanding of what I will be looking at.....:hail:

 

Background on what I'm doing: https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=255367

Should be around 300 RWHP at least, still drive daily and pass sniffer.

I was poking around Summit, their engine kit FEM-CSMHP761-311 for '87-up 350 has .030"-over hypereutectic pistons, rings, .010"-under bearings, cam bearings, gaskets, oil pump (I'll probably use the one I've got or a new M55 I have in the garage attic), freeze plugs and assembly lube for $290. I've already got ARP rod bolts. That should easily handle the kind of power we're looking at.

 

I was just talking to a guy from tacreations near Miami, and he asked about considering a swap from an 87-92 350 TPI. He said that with a good rebuild, porting polishing and some head work ( all within budget) I could get about 290 HP+ and good torque. I know I need all of the electronics, ect.... but has anyone done the rebuild on these engines and can it make these type of numbers? Also is it a major PITA to make the switch from carb to EFI?

 

While the swap itself is pretty much straight forward, it's the little things that hurt the wallet. Obviously, you will need all the sensors and the ECM. You need to change out the engine harness as well. Then you will need a small cam distributor as there is not enough room for the large cap HEI. If you leave the rear little cover off, there might be room for it. Also, keep in mind, if you go with a carb setup, it can be more easily modified to accept future mods such as a cam and whatnot. For an EFI setup, you only have so much room before you have to reprogram. So while the swap itself may not be hard, it's the sensors and repercussions of PROM burning you will now have to live with.

As far as power, think of it like this. With the carb, the intake setup was never a restriction. Both the intake and carb flowed plenty to support the engine. Now put the factory TPI setup on and now the intake is a restriction. It will choke out a 350 by 5000 RPM or so.

 

If you're doing a 350 TPI build/swap, get everything for the 350 and TPI from a donor car. The list of needed parts is long. If you don't have a complete car from which to get said parts, you'd be best advised to forget it.

To get 290 net flywheel HP out of a TPI engine will require replacement of a lot of the parts you just paid to get off the donor car, and therefore a lot of expense. Certainly the cheaper route to 300 HP is to put a 350 under your current carb.

 

AU War dam Eagle!!!!!!!!