Well after ordering a set of new actuators I come to realize that they indeed were not the problem. Some of us play it off and say "oh it just needs oiling" or "it sticks", but this fix is so simple even the dumbest dummy could do it

Take off the drivers side kick panel. Behind it is the power door lock relay mounted with one 7mm screw. If you notice over time the hole enlarges making the screw loosen and the relay loses ground causing the locks to be lazy. What I did was drill a new pilot hole right underneath it and screwed in two large screws to mount the relay. Now being nicely grounded the relay works properly and so do your locks.

Hope this helps even one person just to avoid the troubleshooting I experienced in finding such a simple problem.

 

I was wondering if I was the only one experiencing this problem. Thanks, I'll try it!

 

Man, thanks a bunch. My driver side door lock is real lazy. Thanks again:hail:

Auggie

 

Glad I could help... :lala:

 

I never even thought about that before.... but it makes sense. I'm going to have a look at that today and see if I can get my locks working again. Thanks.

 

by lazy do you mean.....when you hit the button it goes part way to locking/unlocking?

Mine take 3 or 4 presses to finally get where they need to be - but seem to be trying hard enough. As soon as I can drive my car again - I'll try your fix

 

Thanks for posting this. I don't think I would have thought of that one. All my 3rd gens have had lazy power locks, usually hitting them with some grease does help, but usually doesn't solve the problem.

 

Now if we could get some pictures, that would make a great tech article.

 

Here ya go, I snapped a pic for ya while I was at the shop today. Pretty simple really, just take off the drivers side kick panel and then remove the black square cover piece, I just ripped mine off as it was falling apart anyways and its right there.

 

No pic. OOPs

Auggie

 

SO you just replaced that screw that you circled and thats it?

 

He isn't talking about replacing the screw, just drilling a new hole for that screw because the old one because a little loose. Just drill a new hole a half inch or so above or below the old one and screw it back in. Mine wasn't loose at all, but I think I will try to clean it up a bit and see if that helps.

 

Nice! I'm going to have to give this a try.

 

So that tab is a ground and not just a mounting strap?

 

yep

 

I had my relay off since I was replacing the driver's door, and I was wondering why the locks weren't working. I tried messing with it today and they worked good as new. Thanks for the advice!

 

Keep in mind this is a PRE 88 type setup. In 88 GM changed this like they changed all kinds of other stuff too. My 89 iroc has a small black box the plugs into a mess of about 6 wires. No ground that I can see, it must have a ground integrated into the harness. I had an alarm installed the power locks would not work, or have not since I purchased the car. This was because there was no relay. I went to the junkyard and picked one up. They worked, but very sluggish. Those parts in the door get to gummed up it takes a few good cleanings to get them all working great again. Just thought I would post this as I saw someone asking about it that had a 91 car in their sig. Our cars are different. I was going to pull the relay out of my 86 to fix the problem and found out the hard way that they are different systems........ Hope that helps

Will

 

Anyone have a picture of what the relay looks like on a 1991 camaro?

 

Mine's not loose at all. My TA's an '88 but it looks the same as the pic posted. When I try locking or unlocking it, it takes more that 5 or 6 pushes of the button! But my relay isn't loose at all. Would a good cleaning or a washer do it? Or would a new hole work, even if it's not lose at all? Thanks,

 

my 86 iroc use to take 4-5 pushes to lock. i replaced both door actuators and now the work great. one push...lol. my question is, since i didn't clean the contact on the relay ground strap, why do my new actuators work on one push? just trying to figure this one out. thanks, tom

 

This is excellent advice but for those that still experience problems there are a couple of other demons. Obvioiusly the rods and linkages need lubrication. Actually cleaning them first then lubing helps because lube attracts dirt, muck, gum, fuzz and no telling what else over the years.

But I have found that much of the problems lie in the plastic lock slide piece. You KNOW the little button that has orange that you stare at when you lock your keys out of your car and say "man I wish I didn't have that type of lock".

This is nylon which frays and roughens over time. It slides inside another nylon track which also wears.

Disassembling this lock slide and cleaning it then taking some ultrafine sandpaper like 800 or 1000 grit and cutting down all the burrs. Then relube with some white litheum grease really removes a lot of stress on the actuators.

 

I'll try to get pics of the 91's relay by the beginning of next week.

 

Have an '88 IROC convertible. My lock relay is just as pictured and they will not work IF it is not grounded. Was working on the door hinge and took that relay off, son tried power lock while it was loose and they didn't work. He accused me of breaking something...I thought that maybe I had blown a fuse. Touched that back to the body and they worked.

 

use graphite powder to lubricate the locks, it doesnt wear out and dirt doesnt stick to it.

 

I'm also interested in this on post 88 cars.
I was looking at the pics and I'm thinking "hey I dont have one of those..." but then I read its pre 88

 

It's NOT pre 88 as I have an 88 that does have the relay.

 

So does anyone have a picture of a newer third gen lock assembly that they could post so that I know what I am getting myself into?

 

Yes, please! Pictures of the 91 relays would be AWESOME! I have the same lazy lock problem on my 1991 Z-28.

THanks!

 

how bout a 92 one.. i'm workin on about 6 pushes of the button now til it locks..

 

My rod in the door was bent. I was replacing the passenger side window and straightened it a little. Now the locks work on the first push.

 

holy crap you are the man!!!! you know how long I have thought about fixing that but had no idea what the hell i could do? Now the kick pannel.. right under the dash or to the side where the dead pedal is? I gots me something to do later!!! sweeet!

 

On the bar that you just straitened in the door, did it stick on opening as well?

The passenger side works great. However, the drivers side will only go half way on locking (with power door lock), but it unlocks just fine.

I have been messing with this on and off for years. Tried graphite and checked the relay ground, but still no go.

 

The bar had become bent a little over time. I just sort of straightened it and it works fine now. No real directions, just moved the one to the locks.

 

which kick panel? driver side or passanger side? and by kick panel you meen the crap under the dash and steering wheel? I wanted to fix it last night but taking allt hat out is a pain.... even at 2am.

 

your kick panel is the little piece that is towards the floor on the side of the car just in front of the door seam.....where your door hinges, look down and it is just inside...it is a carpeted piece about 1 ft by 1 ft

as a driver, put your foot on the floor carpet and slide it left...the 'stuff' that stops your slide is the kick panel...named such because it gets 'kicked' a lot


this relay is behind the drivers side kick panel mounted by a 5mm hex head to the metal work of your body...the relay itself is silver...there MAY be a piece of sheet rubber hanging over it...pull that aside

ONE screw holds it in place with a couple of plastic tabs molded into the piece

 

Still waiting on where to re-ground the 1991 lock relay? Any info or pics would be AWESOME!

ANyone?

 

this is true of the pre 88 cars, 88 and later cars have a black plastic relay. different from the metal box that is pictured above in this thread. It also has a white lettered diagram of the wiring stamped on the box. Hope that helps

Will

 

Will,

obviously not true of ALL 88's....mine is an 88 and it is a little silver relay just like I posted where i posted...had it off twice to replace lower hinge pin and lower hinge

 

The relay on mine is a silver metal box also.

can we say cleaning out the last of the inventory at the Van Nuys plant

 

Must be, I assumed since so much changed between the 87-88 model years that this was when they decided to change that relay as well. Mine is the little black box, so maybe some of the later 88's had it as well. I don't know, but its safe to say that all 89-92 have this newer design that is mounted in relatively the same location, a little higher, and does not use the chassis as a ground.

Will