ok iv came up with an idea that in my mind should work,
so let me fill you in, take 4 plates of steel that are cut out in squares, clamp the 4 plates so they don't shift, now useing a drill press drill 2 holes (one hole for the brackets and the other for the lcas) so that the 4 plates have them in the exact same spots, jack up the car put the jack stands on the frame, then lower the hydroic jack so the rear end hangs slip jack stands under the rear end, then unbolt the LCAs and let them hang, now bolt the 4 plates on the brackets where the lcas were bolted in, then slide the lacs up to the 4 plates where the only holes are left and bolt them in, they well be free to move Intel there lined up and welded in
"what would you use to line them up?"
then box the 4 plates from the back and por-15 them and that should be it! i can pick where the lcas go in trems of picking where to drill the 2 holes like 2" lower then the original brakets or how ever one would see fit
would this work, does this make since?

 

come on no one gets this?

 

Sounds easy enough... though I'd use a jig to get the new holes drilled right since they'll need to be located by the arc of the trailing arm through it's motion, plus be at the right angle when mounted on the rear end. Not quite a measure 2 inches, then point and shoot with a drill press type of modification...

It's also a nice time to fabricate up some tubular trailing arms!

 

why not just buy them and get ones are are perfect. Or buy a set and quickly make a duplicate set and then return the originals. Spohn sells a set of $65.00

 

I just welded in a set of Spohns last night, piece of cake to do.

 

I built 2 sets like that and they worked fine. While it would have been easier to just buy a set already made building my own only cost me $7 worth of scrap steel and a few hours of my time.

 

I built my own, but I used a CNC to cut 4" long arcs with the proper radius so that I can relocate my trailing arms by loosening the bolts and sliding them up or down. In the farthest up position they are about 1/4" below stock. You can move the arm from top to bottom without the rear end moving at all.

It kinda washed out, but here is a pic...

 

i made my as well.0 dollars and a few hours of my time. i made a set of weld ins but i plan on changing them into bolt ins.

 

Looks almost identical to the BMR bracket… but what is it indexing on to make sure that it’s at the right angle? Looks like it sticks out past the back of the stock bracket and somewhat overlaps…

 

they were made to just like the BMRs except i made mine better
the only thing that is locating the hole are the correct placment of the hole.

i plan on modifing these a bit like these

 

Im ignorant of this mod.....what's the benefit to having these?

 

i laughed my *** off on thoes last two sentances......