Just Rebuilt my Frontend(pics inside)
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 85
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From: Annville,PA
Car: 84 Z28
Engine: 72 350 .030 over
Transmission: 89 WC T-5
Just Rebuilt my Frontend(pics inside)
As the subject says I rebuilt my frontend. I sandblasted the a-arms,swaybar,and motor mount peices, then painted them with POR-15 gloss black along with the new steering peices. I used all new Dana steering components: tie rods, center link, Idler arm, and ball joints. I replaced the a-arm bushings with Global West Del-a-lum bushings. I also added a TDS wonder bar, and Spohn solid tierod adjusters. New ES greasable sway bar bushings and endlinks. I also replaced pass side motor mount, I did the driver side mount about 8 months ago. Here are some before pics then the after pics along with a pic of my Global west LCA's and panhard bar and my exhaust. Enjoy and post any comments.
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Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Cincinnati
I wanna redo mine again and paint the a-arms with some rust proof paint this time. Then get those del-a-lum bushings instead of jus the poly ones. Looks like you need to paint the rear end now.
Last edited by Spdfrk1990; Jan 1, 2004 at 04:08 PM.
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 2,467
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From: The nation's capital
Car: 91 RS
Engine: 350 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
That looks awesome man.
Now if you get some SFC's, springs and shocks, you'll be set up real nice.
Like someone said, please post some part numbers and prices.
Now if you get some SFC's, springs and shocks, you'll be set up real nice.
Like someone said, please post some part numbers and prices.
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 35
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From: Lubbock Tx
I'm about to rebuild my front end too.
Do you have to have any special tools?
I've also heard that hte centerlik has to be replaced in EXACTLY the same position.
Any tips you can pass along would be appreciated.
Do you have to have any special tools?
I've also heard that hte centerlik has to be replaced in EXACTLY the same position.
Any tips you can pass along would be appreciated.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 9,550
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From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally posted by Matt_Ky
POR = ?
POR = ?
http://www.por15.com/
Our POR-15 Rust Preventive Paint, acknowledged worldwide as the finest rust preventive coating ever developed, stops rust permanently and is the product by which all others are measured.
its cool stuff....
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
From: Annville,PA
Car: 84 Z28
Engine: 72 350 .030 over
Transmission: 89 WC T-5
I have the part numbers but couldn't find anyplace online that sold them. I got them at a small local parts store. They are "BEST VAL-U CHASSIS PARTS" brand. On the boxes they say Best Val-u chassis parts/ Dana corperation. The part numbers are :
SPI 505-1026B Balljoints 12.62 each
SPI 401-1316B Tierods 25.20 each
SPI 401-1317B Tierods 15.78 each
SPI 450-1065B Idler arm 35.39
SPI 435-1075B Center link 42.15
Total plus tax (6% in PA) 195.83
The parts place told me the SPI stands for Spicer, another brand of Dana I think. I don't remember which tierods were inner and outer, sorry.
The special tools I used was a pneumatic chisel with a fork for splitting the tierods and spindle off the ball joint. A spring compressor to aide in removal of the coil springs. An impact wrench was nice but not necisary. When it came to pressing out the old A-arm bushings I took them to the local shop and had the old bushings pressed out along with the old balljoint. I then sandblasted and painted the A-arm and took it back to have the new balljoint and bushings pressed in. Off my head I can't remember anything else.
I don't think that matters as much as the idler arm going back into the same position. Regardless I still am getting a frontend alignment.
I have had my Global West SFC's for about 2yrs now and still didn't get around to installing them or look into a local shop doing it. I would like to install them myself but people don't reccomend installing them on a lift. I am too lazy to put it on jackstands and crawl around on my back trying to weld.
As for the springs I can't lower it if I want to get up my Fathers driveway to use his garage. The tailpipes drag slightly as it is. I did cut one coil off the fronts to bring the frontend down a bit, as it sticks way up since I lightened it. I have alum L98 heads, an AC Delco Alum/plastic radiator, no smog, and plastic headlights instead of glass. I also have a factory fiberglass hood off an 83 Z28 I want to put on.
Thanks for all the cool comments guys. If I missed anyones questions let me know. Thanks
SPI 505-1026B Balljoints 12.62 each
SPI 401-1316B Tierods 25.20 each
SPI 401-1317B Tierods 15.78 each
SPI 450-1065B Idler arm 35.39
SPI 435-1075B Center link 42.15
Total plus tax (6% in PA) 195.83
The parts place told me the SPI stands for Spicer, another brand of Dana I think. I don't remember which tierods were inner and outer, sorry.
Do you have to have any special tools?
I've also heard that hte centerlik has to be replaced in EXACTLY the same position.
Now if you get some SFC's, springs and shocks, you'll be set up real nice.
As for the springs I can't lower it if I want to get up my Fathers driveway to use his garage. The tailpipes drag slightly as it is. I did cut one coil off the fronts to bring the frontend down a bit, as it sticks way up since I lightened it. I have alum L98 heads, an AC Delco Alum/plastic radiator, no smog, and plastic headlights instead of glass. I also have a factory fiberglass hood off an 83 Z28 I want to put on.
Thanks for all the cool comments guys. If I missed anyones questions let me know. Thanks
Last edited by FastZ28*84; Jan 2, 2004 at 10:19 PM.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
From: Annville,PA
Car: 84 Z28
Engine: 72 350 .030 over
Transmission: 89 WC T-5
It finally was a nice day saturday so I got it out and drove it around. It seems to drive alot better, doesn't pull near as bad on uneven pavement.
Then Sunday I took it down to Maple Grove and went auto crossing for my first time. That was a blast, a big rush to say the least. It seemed to stick pretty good but I had difficulties putting the power to the ground. The track wasn't the greatest either. Alot of different surfaces and transititions from flat to not so flat.
All in all I'm happy with how it drives now compared to how it was before the rebuild.
Then Sunday I took it down to Maple Grove and went auto crossing for my first time. That was a blast, a big rush to say the least. It seemed to stick pretty good but I had difficulties putting the power to the ground. The track wasn't the greatest either. Alot of different surfaces and transititions from flat to not so flat.
All in all I'm happy with how it drives now compared to how it was before the rebuild.
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