I am going to weld the rear on my car (I know its not safe or streetable!). I am wondering what the easiest way is? Leave it in or pull the carrier? Where to weld? etc...
If anyone could tell me step by step or lead me to a good web site with pics? I would prefer to leave the housing under the car if possible.
I also already boxed my lca's and I am about to do the torque arm and the bar that runs beside the rear. I run on 15" 25.5" slicks (circle track but only $20 for a pair) and only turning one doesnt help w/ traction!

I had traction problems and I have to get them fixed. I hope someone can help.

Thanks

-Terry-

 

what exactly in the rear are you welding, and why wouldn't it be safe or streetable? Are you welding the axle tubes, meaning running a full weld instead of 2 spot welds?

 

NO, I think he means welding the spider gears to make it a ghetto spool, if so, I'm prettty sure that there are rules against it, at least that's what I was told. why don't you find a cheap spool for it.

 

Because of money. That and I gotta have it ready for Sat. I was told its ok to weld the spider gears. I know you weld it gear to gear on all 4. I am wondering if I had to pull the rear or if I can leave it in. I would also like to see pics. of it. It is only a temp set up. Like in 2 weeks I want to order a full spool or a locker system. The car doesnt see much street (like 1 day a month).

Thanks

-Terry-

 

Is this a 9 or 10 bolt?? I broke my spider gears at the track just doing the burnout on slicks. But the night before, I took it out opened headered on slicks, Beating the hell out if it. They will break, it is just a question of when. I am glad they broke, before I ran it. Just imagine doing 115-120 and the rearend locking up !!!! If you have a 10 bolt, get a mini spool. It will be much safer. Richmond makes one for the 26 spline axle 7.5. It is like 80 bucks at Jegs.

 

Its a 7.5" 10 bolt with 4.10s. I just need a temp fix for sat. after that I am getting some kinda locker or spool.

 

Get the mini spool. It will take you 2 hours to install it. It uses the factory c-clips and is easy to install. Look at it this way, is your life worth a hundred bucks to you? If so, that is all it will cost you to do the rearend right.

 

I have welded the spider gears on a few dozen differant diffs for off road vehicles. I have had good luck each time and have found the "lincoln locker" to be stronger than factory spider gears and normally stronger than the ring and pinion and the axle shafts. I have not done this on a street car and wouldn't recomend it however. It also concerns me that our cars have c-clips. Anyway to do it I recomend pulling the diff cover, get all the lube off with brake cleaner..... must be clean or your weld will suck, start by welding the gears to each other...8 places totol. When doing this the most important thing is to limit the amount of heat imput into the carier and never quench it with water. I recommend welding about a minute at a time and alowing the diff to air cool.....normally takes about 3-4 hours to do it right. If you get the carrier too hot you will shatter it like glass next time it gets power. Another tip.....Sometimes I cut sections of 1/4" mild plate to weld over the spider gears to reinforce them...but make sure you drill an acess hole or something to remove your c-clips. Unfortunately we don't have nodular carriers because you can also weld those solid to make them as strong as a spool Finally, make sure you get any little peices of weld spatter back out our you will chew up your bearings and ring gears right away. I normally weld mine when they are out of the axle housing. Anyway, if you do it right I think it will work well for you for a little while maybee as well as a spool but to do it right takes more time than just tossing a spool in for $80.
Tyler

 

we ran welded spider gears in some dirt track cars, but for drag racing it is illegal. but, as a former tech guy I can tell you that we don't usually tear rear end covers apart to check, so you will get away with it provided you don't grenade the rear and make a mess.

 

dont you guys remember the member who's girlfriend was almost killed because he welded his spyder gears and then they locked up on him while he was driving???

 

Yeah that is kinda scary. I have seen regular spyder gears do the same thing as well as broken ring and pinions though so it is not just because they were welded. Once again you can't get to much heat in the carrier or you are crystalizing the metal and asking for it to break.

 

I run a welded rearend on my Spitfire, but i would hate it on the street cause of tire wear, drivetrain wear and a sqealing tire everytime you turn. Plus, I hopeyou wil never have to push your car cause when you go to turn, you'll need several friends to help!

 

A buddy of mine had a "lincoln locker" in his car and it busted one night on the street. I've actually got it on video hehe He launched and then about 20 feet out it let go.

 

WEll, I got the rear welded. We welded on top of the spider gears then let it air cool and went back and welded gear to gear. So far all the welds on top of the gears are cracked now. I am thinking the heat made the gear move out a little and crack. I have to hurry up and figure this one out!

Thanks for all the help guys.

-Terry-

 

Well if the gear is cracked I would not drive it at all. Once a crack begins it will propagate rapidely and break. Looks like you probably go them to hot and now there is no way to fix them other than reweld and heat treat and I assume you don't have a means to heat treat. I would definetely put a spool in now because I believe it is dangerous to run on them. Sorry you had bad luck,
Tyler

 

WE made 12 welds so far that are gear to gear and have stuck good! The welds that didn't stick were the gear to carrier welds. They cracks in the center of the weld. I didn't even get it hot enough when I was welding that I couldn't pick the carrier up. I would let it get warm and then set it out side. I hope it holds up with 4.10.

Thanks for all the help guys. This is why this board is just do dang great!


-Terry-

 

"Dial 91 and then, when it lets loose, dial the other 1".
Please wear a helmet and good luck!
Wahooo......
S-D

 

Yeah, I agree...... Sorry I should have clarified. You really can't weld to our carriers since they are cast. Some carriers are nodular iron which is much easier to weld on. The spider gears are more like a medium carbon steel with a higher Brinell Hardness so they are very easy to weld. As long as nothing is welded to the carrier anymore and you didn't get it to hot then I think you will be fine....just be carefull and keep us updated.
Tyler

By the way...if you get a weird vibration then the carrier is not in balance so just at more weld to one side

 

I just got it done. I took it out on the road (I live in B.F.E.) and I opened the headers up. With 11.5" of bias ply tires I laid 80+ foot of black marks. The rear held up great! THe drive shaft is bent so I gotta replace it and I am adding a drive shaft loop later on. I hope this gets me 13s. I changed gears and lost about 200lbs of the car. also added an accel module, new super coil, tune up, and holly 650 duel feed vac. sec., and boxed the lca. I was running 14.7 so I hope this works.

Thanks guys!


-Terry-

PS I am going to wear my helment!!!!!