I decided it was time to change the spark plugs, and while I was at it I may as well change the rotor and distributor cap. It's a 1986 Camaro with a 2.8 liter v6 mpfi.
The back mounting screw on the old distributor cap broke off in the hole and I can't get it out.
When I finished up, the car wouldn't start, and it kind of backfired a couple of times. I looked in my Hanes maunual, and apperently I had re-installed the spark plug wires in the wrong order. I put it right, but it still runs really choppy. It's as if it's got a blown valve, or a blown piston. Is it possible that the cap needs to be completely sealed to run right? Did I blow something when I had the motor going with the wrong timing? The cap doesn't rotate like on older vehicles, is it possible that I've still got the rotation wrong? Please help.

 

I would definately re-check firing order and make sure cap is secured to distributer tightly.

 

Your cap is not suppose to rotate , your rotor does inside your cap while your cap stays still . Sence the screw has broken off , your rotor is prabably not making good contact ( with the current ) Not suppose to touch but suppose to be close (make good electrical contact ) .Take your cap off and get that broken screw out and tighten the cap on the car .

 

Make sure the plug wires are still conductive. I've known the factory plug wires to pull loose up in the boot.

 

I'm with wayners. Fix that dist, then I bet it will run better.

 

3RD it. get a drill and have fun.

 

have fun.
4th.
Pull it and rebuild it for even better results.

 

I "5th" the idea! The Haynes 82-92 Camaro manual will tell you how to pull your distributor and re-install it. Plus, search for "rebuild distributor" here (upper right hand corner, click search, make sure you choose the V6 forum) and you'll find tips.

One tip I can give that I think I haven't given recently is this: The distributor might appear to be stuck HARD in the motor, even after removing the hold-down bolt and bracket. To solve this, remove the connector from the cold-start injector at the back of the intake manifold. The connector can hang over the edge of the distributor housing shaft, and keep it "in" the motor. To remove the connector, note that it has a little silver wire on it. Push the wire "in" towards the center of the connector, then pull straight back, the connector will come off. To reattach the connector, just push it on, the silver wire will "click" over and latch into place.

Another tip; our '86 motors have three marks on our balancer. When doing the timing, always choose the WIDEST mark, this will give #1 TDC.

Oh hell, while I'm in a typing mood...a handy thing to do when pulling the distributor is to put the motor at #1 TDC before yanking the dist. This will allow for an easier reinstall. Mark the WIDEST notch in the balancer with white-out. (You might have to "bump" the motor a few times to see it. Remove the #1 plug. Put a long PHILLIPS HEAD screwdriver in the hole. Turn the engine CLOCKWISE, using a breaker bar and socket on the center crankshaft pulley bolt (crank pulley is the largest pulley, bottom center of your motor), until the screwdriver rises up as high as it can go. Then check the widest balancer mark (marked with white out or chalk) against the timing tab (driver's side of crank pulley, with "teeth" cut into it, wipe it off with a rag, you'll see #s on it). If the WIDEST mark isn't near the timing tab, you've got #1 at TDC, but the wrong TDC. We need TDC of the compression stroke, not exhaust stroke. So rotate the crank pulley again, the screwdriver will fall, then rise up again, and this should be #1 TDC.

[edit] Under advice from nj88V6, I'm adding these cautions! Thanks, dude, for pointing out these missed details! Alternative method is to lightly poke a cotton shop rag into the #1 plug hole. (don't use a paper towel!!) Then, turn the crank pulley. If you find #1 of exhaust, the towel will remain, until you keep turning the motor. When you find #1 TDC of compression stroke, the shop rag should pop out because of the air being compressed in the cyl. You can also use your finger to "feel" the compression.

I just prefer the screwdriver because you can find the exact TDC. If the balancer outer ring has slipped on the center hub, you will find out, because the screwdriver will be at it's highest, but the mark on the balancer won't line up with 0 degrees.

 

Tom is your keyboard smoking after all that typing ?

Tom really has some good advice though .

 

:hail: :hail: :hail: The Master Hath Spoken :hail: :hail: :hail:

 

I agree, TomP is the MAN!!!! I'm still feeling the honor of is reply :rockon:

 

LOL! Just trying to keep you guys from copying my mistakes

And Wayne, hehe, no, it wasn't smoking, but it's wearing out. I have one of those stupid new black keyboards that Dell's been including lately (I miss the old-school beige!), and the black is wearing "smooth" on the keys I always hit, and the white letters are fading. Looks like I've been typing with motor oil on my fingers! Hm, for kicks, keys a,s,d,f,e,r,t,m,n,i,o,p,h,j,n,enter,space,shift are the most abused. This never happened on a beige keyboard. Oh well.

 

DOOD ! Im having the same problem . I have a white keyboard , but the black lettering on the keys are fading off .