what are some of the install tips and tricks that make the install easier and faster than their written instructions?

I know slotting the bolts that go into the plenum makes it easier to screw in those bolts? anything else?

 

Ok the first thing you should do before ANYTHING else is run a tap through all of the holes in the plenum. The instructions show what the threads are so that'll help you there. Doing this made installing mine the 2nd time SOOOOO much easier.

Next get a Snap-On ball-end M6 hex wrench. This will let you tighten the lower runner bolts without removing any of your exhaust rockers.

Get every runner to manifold bolt tightened down before even touching the pelnum.

Finger start EVERY bolt on the bottom of the plenum before you tighten a single one. This will help ensure that you get the plenum as straight as possible and don't torque it over any one way.

Some people have used ratchet wrenches to tighten the 12-points under the plenum quickly. I'm not sure which brand clears the runners.

Its really not as bad as some people make it out to be. Mine has been modified so the the inner bolts go in from the top. The plenum had its threads drilled out and the runners were tapped so that this would be possible. I tighten them down with some red loctite and they don't even think of backing out.

 

thanks.

any other people have any suggestions?

 

Do a couple of bench installs to see what you will be dealing with. Is it going into a motor in the car or onto a new motor? If possible install it outside the car and plug the whole thing in at once.

 

yep, I plan to install in while the engine is still on the stand so i can make any modifications easily as I come accross them.

thanks.

 

Its gonna be a breeze then. Just trick out the plenum bolts by by slotting them and you will have no pain. Just dont forget your Loctite and RTV.

 

what's the best tool to slot them with? The bolts are pretty small so a 1/16" diw grinder wheel seems to wide while a hacksay blade seems too thin.

 

Dont know, I bought mine used and they were already slotted. Try some baby cut off wheels for a Dremel, but whatever you do get it done.

 

When you come by I'll show you

 

OK. I have to pick up some more SS fasteners at McFadden-Dale sometime this week so I'll stop by then.

 

Bring the screws when you come by.

 

Don't forget to run the throttle cables through before you stick the box on top. Damn does forgetting to do that one **** you off. Get the MAT sensor plugged in, too.

 

I was lucky, the person I bought my Super Ram from had install studs in the plenum so all I had to do was put nuts on the bottom. Putting the runner bolts into the head wasn't hard either, some people claim you need to remove the rocker arms but with a 1/4" swivel, a couple extensions and a ball end hex wrench it was easy. The only problem I had is one of the lid bolt holes got stripped. Be very careful not to over torque those.

 

One thing I found is that it's best to put in the fuel rails with injectors before you bolt the runners on but don't actually bolt down the rails. Also if you can hook up the injector plugs first to. It will save some major headache.

 

Everyone drop your opinions. Run the injector wires inside or outside the runners?

 

I've run mine on the inside, but I had to remove the black convuluted tubing. No biggie, just wrap electrical tape around that part of the harness where you removed the tubing. When it's all buttoned up you won't see it.

 

are you saying that you can't plug in the injector (or get access) once the SR is installed, i.e. you can't install the SR on motor, install motor, and then hook up the wires for the SR?

 

Outside here.

Hm now that you mention the injectors a couple of them I couldn't get the clips back on. But, I really doubt they're going to come flying off..

 

I meant once the SR and fuel rail (w/ injectors) are installed you can plug the wiring on the injectors?

 

Good question. I am dropping mine in for the first time on a new motor on a stand and was going to install it complete. I also want to run the wires on the inside. Is it possible to install the motor with the SR inplace and then fish the wires through once it is sitting tine car complate? How about the throttle linkages?

 

I have a manual trans but if you have an auto then you have to lay down the TV cable before installing the plenum.

 

You can plug the wiring on the injectors even with the plenum on. In fact that's how I used to do mine because the plugs would get in the way when I tightened the 4 inner plenum bolts. It's tricky to get in but it's not hard at all. You'll have to rotate the injectors anyway to get clearance to the 4 inner plenum bolts.

 

Looks much cleaner with the harness inside. Plus I want unrestricted access to the valve covers.

 

Drivers side

 

IROCZZ3

Boy that sure looks clean!

So I can build the motor from the oil pan to the intake=SR and then install it and route the injector harness and TV cable after it is ont the mounts or while it is on its way in? Please clarify about the TV cable as many people talk about it making problems.

Thanks

EDIT: Where did you get that intake elbow, looks real nice, and how well does your MAF sit in it?

 

I'd build the motor all the way til your at the point of installing the plenum, then drop in the motor. You still have to lay the TV cable first, then install the plenum. I've heard of people fishing the TV cable under the plenum after it's been installed but I don't see how that's possible. The plenum is already off, just make it easier for yourself. If you want to put the harness inside or outside, it's up to you. I like to do valve adjustments with the motor running so I chose to tuck them inside and get it out of the way. I always plug the injector harness in last after the plenum is bolted anyways.

The elbow is a Vortech LT1 elbow that I mounted the other way. I got it cheap off a friend but you can get them in Summit. The elbow is a tight fit...it comes close to hitting the tensioner. You have to position the couplings and elbow just right so there is no interference. The MAF itself is a tight slip fit into the elbow. Fortunately it really is air tight and there are no vacuum leaks doing it this way. The rest of the system is an SLP cold air package.

I just did a Stealth Ram swap so none of the above applies to me anymore.

 

Wanna sell the elbow? Or are you using it with the HSR?

 

Sorry, I put it on my 95 Z28.

 

Definitely slot the plenum bolts - I couldn't imagine tightening them with out that.

I ran my injector wires on the outside of the runners and I hooked them up BEFORE I put the plenum on.

On the runners - I tightened the bottome bolts first since they are the hardest to get to.
I had a vacuum leak the first time I put the SR on because the bottom bolts weren't tightened all the way.

I also used a little RTV onthe plenum lid gasket.
I've heard too many bad stories about the lid leaking after being installed.

 

what are the torque specs for the plenum lid bolts, the plenum runner bolts and the runner manifold bolts?
-also, is there a way to download the SR install directions anywhere? well...i guess all i really need is the bolt specs.
-also, I tried to take off my plenum lid, but after i took the bolts out, it was stuck. What do you think the best way to do this is...thanks?

 

What if you go in through the throttle body hole with some kind of pry bar and try to work the edges from the inside. Be gentle...

 

I too have my runners tapped and the plenum drilled out so I install them from the top. The idea to start all bolts before tightening down anything is a good one as well. I ran my injectors wiring outside the runners, couldn't quite get everything to reach with them on the inside - though I like the looks of them on the inside much better! May try that again the next time I pull my plenum.....

 

I ran mine 90% inside....

 

A trick I use is applying antiseize to all the gaskets. It aids in a better seal and also makes disassembley a breeze. PTV's a PITA to clean up!

 

yeah, I've heard of using White Lithium grease, but I am too afraid to try it!

 

I'm surprised there isn't a superram.com (.org, etc.) website yet.

 

too funny, i agree...what a PITA i had tonigh trying to get the runner bolts in,...and i broke an injector clip after it was all installed...hope I don't need it, cause I don't want to take apart the SR.

 

Anybody have a problem with interference between the driver's side rear corner of the plenum and whatever is back there on the firewall (wiper motor?).

 

yes, it hits,...don't worry it'll eventually just break the wiper motor casing,
But seriously, the outer part is the wiper fliud pump i think, and the inner part is the wiper motor. It's really not a big deal////I wanted to remove the wiper pump on the outer part of it, and make a blockoff plate,..but there are all types of springs and gaskets and I wans't really sure how to do it.. it's tight but it'll be okay.

 

Yeah, broke mine too puting it in. Corner should have been beveled back a 1/2 inch or so in the design phase. Wouldn't have had a performance hinderance doing that and made working with it a lot easier...

 

If I ever find a used Super Ram for sale, that's what I'm going to have Dyno Don do to it. Those Super Rams go fast, and the used ones aren't much cheaper than new.

 

As for the wiper motor issue, take it off and notch out a section of the plastic with a dremmel tool. slide the washer motr out before you do it (pressure fitted). Used a sanding wheel to clean it up. I smashed my original one to peices when dropping my fresh rebuild in. They are $90 bucks just for the plastic peice with the circit bourd inside. Dealer part only. If you go to parts house for wiper motor it does not come with it. Just an FYI...

 

how does the superram bracket bolt up because mine will not line up with any holes?

 

i'm not sure what metal piece that is under the bracket, but I bolted my black cable bracket directly to the driver side of the superam....it will fit in those holes...where did you get that metal aluminum color piece from....You don't need that,..just use lockwashers on the 3 bolts....
On another note. It was funny last night I realized i forgot to put the TV cable under the plenum. I looked at disconnecting it from the tranny and tried to snake it through with no luck....finally I took apart the end of the tranny cable and was able to easily snake it under the plenum THANK ***! It would have taken me 5 hours to take apart and re-assemble the intake. It only took an hour to take apart the cable, snake it and re-connect it together,...i felt like such an idiot for forgetting to do it,...but it worked out and there is no damage to the tranny cable that will keep it from working properly...i just had to grind a piece of plastic and widen a hole on a little ball end plastic cover. won't mess up it's operation.
Jackballs, explain to me the circiut board and outer part of the wiper housing is only for the washer fluid right? If I removed it and made a blockoff plate, the wipers would still work, just not the washer fluid right? I have no washer fluid reserviour anyway. I tried removing it once, but it seemed kinda inter connected. U have pics of how to properly take it apart?

 

Actually, I'll bet you bolted that bracket to the DRIVER'S side....

Good save on the TV cable!

 

yes, that's what i meant!
- anyway....you're right it was a great save on the TV cable....I wan't sure if I would be able to take it apart at first,...but I just had to open the hole on the little ball end cap and shave a little plastic off the ond of the adjuster....IT WORKED!!!!!!!

 

Justin 87 GTA


I figured my clearence by marking the section that was hitting with a blade while the intake was resting on it. Then take off the plastic/circuit baord out.

You need to take the washer motor out by pulling it stright down. You will need to pry it a little with a screwdriver or something. It is pressure fitted up in their. After that, you can notch out the section of plastic for your clearence. Shove that washer motor back in and you are good to go. After re-install, you can't even see the notch unless you are really looking for it.

 

well, i don't need the washer motor.....i just need the wiper motor. How would I go about removing it...the harness has a clip that serves both washer and wiper motor, and what is the circuit board for both?

 

how old are you motor mounts? I replaced my left motor mount and that solved my wiper motor interference problems.

 

I've converted mine over to running all the wiring harness inside the runner. Make s much easier looking setup, as well as being able to remove the valve covers (at least on the driver's side).

One point I saw mentioned earlier, though: It would be extremely dificult to drop the motor in with the plenum on and still hook up 4 of the 8 injectors. It can be done, but in my opinion isn't worth the hassle. Especially since you don't want your hoist chain dragging over that plenum anyway...