*** loves me cause i could have been doing 75mph
i got the rear end rebuilt in 12/10/02
they havn't figured i out et but i know its not good

heres a couple pics- i would have more but my camera went dead

 

i know the rear paint is messed up and its out in the rain , i wasn't messing around or anything. just went around the corner and had some giy honking at me , hen i went to hit th gas and i was winding out the rear end. so i pulled over and he sawthat i had a really wide stance in the back. lol

i'm just happy i wasn't doing highway speeds when this happened.

 

sry i duno how to edit a post with a pic so i'll do this again right-

 

yikes, that looks like some scary chit.

 

i realized something was wrong and when i hit the brakes and they felt a little differnet peadlewent to the floor, so i down shifted and that didn't work so i puled the e brake, that lock u the left rear and stopped me. i blew out the right wheel cylinder, the sucky part is i just did them. . maybe its time for a LS1 rear brake conversion

 

So they don't know exactly what caused this? Did the axle just start to walk out or what happened?

 

the axle has done one of the following-
snap a retaining ring-
or broke in a certin part
i think it is jut the retaining ring, cause if its the axle anew set of moser axles are probly gonna be some $$$$

 

thats the craziest thing ive seen in a long time.... good thing you werent flying around a turn... whewww... shiiiiiiiiiiit.. that aint good

 

darn, that could of been real bad

 

Maybe your c-clip broke. If it does and you have drum brakes, out comes the axle. Disc brake calipers act as a retainer, but drums have no way of holding the axle in, unless you have a c-clip eliminator kit installed.

 

I've seen the same thing happen to a tow truck on a bridge. The biggest difference though was the dual wheels and axle were about 20 feet from the truck lol.

 

yeah the c clip broke- i'm looking at 1850 for the new rear end to be in, that with a aburn unit and 3.42 gears-

 

1850$ for what kind of rear? Please don't say 7.5".

 

yeah for the 10bolt to get rebiult-
auburn pro unit-new 3.42 gears-rercalbrate the speedo to the gears-all new rear brakes-

 

Can't you get a moser 12-bolt for our cars for about that much??

 

You should research some other options; you can upgrade to a 9 bolt or whatnot for that much. 12-bolt installed would be more, but man......

 

1850!!! *** dam!

Get a 12 bolt if your gunna spend that much. A 9 bolt would be a good replacement. Get some rear disks, new posi, and the porpotioning valve, and you got yourself a nice rear end all ready to go.

 

its 1150 for the rear end with the auburn pro posi unit
then another 400 for the 3.42 gears and to have the speedo redone
then another 300 to have the rear brakes redone with new drums/shoes/wheel cylinders/and springs and new studs along with all the beareings replaced and a new 10 bolt housing(cast)
this is all gonna be about $1850 with them installed and withy a 12month 12,000milke warranty

 

oh and a moser 12bolt to have installed with new rear brakes and gears along with a auburn pro posi unit and to have the speedo recalbrated is gonna be about 2500 at least

 

Uh, this would be considered problem A.

An 82-92 7.5" rear is worth "not much" based on the fact they sold most third gens with one, excepting the 9 bolt cars and the very few(???) with Dana 44s. You can buy a new Auburn posi unit for (off the top of my head...) under 500$.


There's really no reason to use a new housing. There's also a very very very high chance they'll use a used housing and just paint it.


And again, this price is high.

I'm not even going to start on the fact that it's drum brakes.

 

and you can recal. the speedo yourself easily.

 

iighty considering al of you guys are shoting me down- what do u think i should do for my car.
right now this is the best thing i can do-
i don't wanna drop a ford 9" or a 12bolt and i not to sure bout a 9 bolt.

 

Why not just put in a new c-clip?

 

Yeah maybe the last guy just f`d up the old one.

 

I'd get a 12 bolt Moser if I was spending that much money.
We just redid my friends 10bolt with an Auburn Posi, 3.42 gears, new bearings, solid pinion spacer etc.. for $750 installed, which I think would have been better spent on a Moser.

Or you can get a used 3.45 posi/disc 9 bolt for about $450 locally or about $600 shipped to you.

 

the old axle is bent plus the spider gear is completly trashed. the rear is all ordered allready, i know many of you guys are thinking i'm nuts but its ok. oh ok, i was misleading all of you, not with the price but with the info. i here the list of what it will be and why i need a new housing (8.5" 10 bolt)
-new housing-$260
-new richmond 3.42 gears$220
-new auburn PRO posi unit(not the cheap one)$425
-new moser axles (c-clipped and 28 spline)-$295
-new moser rear end setup kit-$95
-new cast differtinal cover w/ brace kit-$290
-the axle tubes will be welded and braced-$75
-new rear drum brakes-$200
i know the price of the rear brakes is high but that cause hes not chargingme for labor nemore. he made his money on the 1st rear doesn't need it on this one. he jst wants to see me back for the tranny and he never wants to see me for the rear again- just a lil ol bullet prof 700r4. heas already gave me a price of 1900 for that too w the viglanti converter, and another 400 for the aluminum drive shaft and new moser u joints. and we made a deal for 2500 for the tranny and driveshaft and spohn tq arm i have no problems with him, turn around is fast and is the best around here

 

so if any of you can show me where i can find me some links or some other alternativeand find me a good place onlong isalnd i'm all ears.

 

either way.. you're perhaps the luckiest person alive right now.

 

very true- i'm jus happy cause i had my lil brotherinte car and my gurl---, i'm so happthey where in the car cause i don't mess around when aybody is in the car.

 

If you pay that much money then you are ... well ... how do I put this as nicely as possible ... a sucker. Don't do it. Your best bet is to just buy a used 4th gen rearend. You can probably pick one up for about $300. Try to find one from an LS1 manual car and you'll get a halfway decent limited slip, 3.42's, and some kickbutt brakes.

Another option if you want a strong rear and don't want to spend over 2K for a 12-bolt or 9" is a strong 8.5" 10-bolt ...

http://www.amazingmechanical.com/rearend.htm

Tim

 

thank you tim. thats all i wanted- oh and he wants 2100 plus shipping-- for that setup which the ioly differnce is he s using an eaton posi setup and 30 spline no name axles. and includes a tq arm but with my guy i'm getting a differnet diferntial cover and new brakes. i wil be converting the brakes on the whole car on the over the winter. along with some zr1 rims and sfc's and springs,swaybars,shocks and struts

 

[list=1][*]I prefer an Eaton over an Auburn; it's rebuildable.[*]The key weak link of the 7.5" is the fact that it's 7.5" literally. The ring gear is the weak point. The 8.5" ring gear is significantly stronger. If I could make "the only difference" only one thing, I would upgrade the ring gear dia. even before I'd worry about the rear cover. 8.5" without rear cover > 7.5" with rear cover.[*]Having the name Moser on the axles doesn't make you go faster. It might make the pinion leak however.[*]Your new brakes are drums and overpriced. What conversion are you doing? If you're converting to disks, do it now because the axle flange on the differential housing is different for disks; make it easy on yourself.[*]You keep trying to talk yourself into the 7.5" for 1850 being reasonable. It's not.[*]There are also guys putting 8.8" Ford diffs together for 4th gen f-bodies. I'm sure that's another "budget" upgrade option to look into over this 7.5" nonsense.[/list=1]

 

let me add to it...

1800 for a 10 bolt...nooooooooooooooo. someone save this person. lol

Dude get a "Chevy 12 bolt". A Ford 9" blah....its a Ford part plus a Ford 9" is more.

 

good idea.

 

Man, I got a slightly used Strange 12 Bolt w/3.73s, with LT1 discs for 1600.... Shop around, and install it yourself! Swapping rear ends may sound tough, but its probably the easiest large part to replace. I was able to install the 12 bolt myself.

1. Remove swaybar
2. Seperate flexible brake line from hard line (the one that runs from the prop. valve to the rear)
3. Remove torque arm. (with a stocker this shoukld take abotu 1.37 minutes)
4. Remove driveshaft (4 10mm nuts, I think)
5. Unbolt panhard bar from rear
6. Support rear with jack or jackstands
7. Unbolt LCa's from rear
8. Remove springs
9. Unbolt shocks
10. Lower the stock rear and pull it out from under the car.

When going to dics brakes, you'll need to get new lines to run along the rear. 4th gen lines will hook right up to the stock T if using a 4thgen rear. Installation is the reverse of removal. Did I miss anything?

Ahh, one thing. You will need a swaybar relocation kit if you want to be able to re-install the swaybar. This may only apply if you have an aftermarket rear girdle cover. This was quite possibly the biggest pain in the **** I've ever had installing a swaybar, which should be very simple. I do not reccomend buying the Spohn kit. If I had to do it over again, I would have bought the BMR kit and had the mounts welded to the rear. Another thing I had to do was "slot" (read-slice the crap out of) my sway bar bushing brackets. Spohn says you need to use poly bushings for his kit, which I have, btu still have problems. Oh well, water under the bridge.

 

ok heres the eal lets get a couple things straight- i may be confused but youn guys are saying 10 bolt 7.5" for what reason- the rear i'm getting is a new 8.5"- thats also the reason for the new houseing.
the next issue the brakes are going to wait because my boss has a 98 C5 and plans on doing all his braking system. so the front brakes,rear brakes, and master cylinder. so in 6 months all that will all be replaced for free. other than the 200 for the brakets. oh and the reason the price is so high is because the shop isn't charging me for any labor but one the brakes so its ok if i spend $200 on brakes. h4e said he left the price of the brakes a lil high because of shipping for everything else- is that so hard to under stand
ok the axle will make me alot faster, i'm not gonns do very good with a bent axle if my current axle was straight i wouldn't be replacing them. and i don't wanna replace just one axle. so i decided to put in moser axles. i chose moser axles because hey are a good quality company and ui have heard no complaints
if you guys are gonna rip me apart please rip me apart on what i'm getting- now u gave me the link to a very similar rearend and its 2100 and its not including the brakes or installition.

oh and i'm sorry for the misleading info in the beginning of this thread- please check my post a couple posts above this, if u guys have any other question please ask.

 

Really? Then go with 30 spline axles. 1989 and newer 8.5" differentials used them stock. You can get a Torsen 8.5" 30 spline, I might add; dunno if Eaton Or Auburn offers a 30 spline one.


I have been.


Your story about the brakes changed from overpriced drums to free C5 donor parts in a bit. Nothing wrong with raising the flag.


http://store.summitracing.com/partde...=SME%2D8510300

 

its not a pain. what did u do to the brackets? lol... its not that hard to notch um.

 

Notching them wouldnt work. The Strange Rear uses 2.75" tubes. I guess what I did could be called notching, to the extreme. I had to slot the hole so much that I just ended up having to cut all the way to the edge. No biggie I guess, I would just like knowing that I had someting surrounding the bolt on all sides though. Lining everything up and holding it up while trying to get the bolts started was a PITA too with the Spohn brakets, but maybe I was doing something wrong? They're on now, and thats all that matters now

 

thats odd. looks like you did the right thing. well at least their on ur ride

 

LOL, gee, thanks! I'll get something cool rigged up there to replace the ghetto-ness as soon as the heart transplant is complete 3 years in the making, hopefully be done by next week!!

 

2 be honest- i never gave any tought on 30 spline axles- i don't know ethier if auburn makes a 30spline differntial for the 8.5" but its ok that you raised the bs flag( i don't blame i think i would do the same ) but why would i make something up, to screw myself in the end. he kept the idea of 28spline axles because thats what the gm 7.5" 10 bolt had in my year, so y change it.but i'll talk 2 him 2morrow and check it out.

oh and i posted this thread so i can get some help not so i can agruee with you guys. i just wanted tomake sure you all know what i'm getting for the price.

oh and once again about the brakes----
that $200 is the only overpriced thiong that i can see, but hes not chharging me for labor. what kinda of labor do u think it would be(hours wise) to install something like this. 6 hours i'd guess and that a complete guess. ($85 an hour times 6 hours equals a hell of alot more than $200 including the brakes) the C5 brakes that i'm getting out his car isn't all free i gotta install his brakes and exhaust along with system, which 2 of three are done. i'm just not to sure when i'm getting the brakes but hes hoping by the end of the summer he wi have the whole thing in. soi figured it would be about winter time to say i have mine in. plus i have other things to do 1st on my car that i wanna complete

the brakes will all be swaped at once, once i ca get a hold of the and C5cbrakes are 13" rotors in the front and until then i get the cash for a new set of rims i won't be able to clear this brake setup(15" rims at the moment)
anyother questions-

 

ok, i know i'm gonna sound like an *** but--
i'm not gonna get the rearend now-- my boss has convideniced me 2 do it my self and swap something else in there with some help from him.
i'm thining about a 4th gen rear end. i just wana know what youguys think of them and how hard are they to swap and whats a fair price for one with a disc brake setup.
i know some of you are gonna make fun of me know, but i went to the tranny shop and the guy showed me the bill and i kinda told him to **** off and foget the idea of working on my car as a whole. the prices above was what he was gonna charge me but for all difernet stuff. he said the 7.5" will be a more streetable rear so he decided to change t back. an i kinda ddn't like that so after a couple minutes of debatingwith him we came to an agree ment.
i a hi for his work so far and his time and he pays the restocking fee but i gotta pay the shipping back to the wholesaler.
in the end it was $85. now is there nething i should look 4 in this rear end.

 

That same thing would have happened to me but I have disc brakes and it was on the highway over the missouri river.
then i limped it for about 1 mile then could not leave stop light.
When i took off cover the pin that holds spider gears was snapped in half.
I payed 1200 for rebuild with new drop forged axles, eaton posi, and 3.73 gears.
I also didn't have to pull the rear they evan towed it 35 miles for me.

 

well i rebuilt mine w/ a cheap posi from SLP and some 3.42's i had laying around. I ordered a Moser 12 bolt and will swap that i place when i install my new motor and tranny combo.

 

Note to self: "No more crazyness in my 91 street car with a stock 10 bolt and drums. Must order c-clip eliminator kit." Seriously, thats nuts. I cant believe thats not considered a flaw from the factory. C-clips break and the wheels fly off as the axle comes out? It just sounds insane. Now I'm feeln really really good that I have a 9bolt (no c-clips) in my 89 drift car. Thanks Revlimit!! (he got me the rear and installed it for me for $200)! I would probably flip if that happened while I was drifting. Thanks for the wake up call!!