Well just got solid roller in and need to upgrade spring pressure.
I know how to change the with heads on car, but have never done so..
Just wondered how hard it is going to be without pulling heads.
If I have to I will, but really hate to pull the heads for the 4th time this year if I don't need to do so.

Any help apreciated.

 

Read this thread...

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=194194

 

i'd guess with a solid roller you aren't going to find springs that match your cam and fit you head. i bet the pull out studs don't last long either. you might want to consider pulling the heads since you're so close anyway and geting rid of the pull out studs and opening up the spring pockets.

 

It's really easy ... just time consuming. I've NEVER needed to use compressed air in the cylinders to hold the valves up. Just bring the piston to the top of the bore. The valve will fall down until it rests comfortably against the piston. You'll still have PLENTY of valve stem above the valve guide too. Find TDC and then do cylinder #1. Turn the crank 90d and then do the next cylinder in the firing order. Lather, Rinse, and Repeat until all 8 cylinders are done.

The best thing to use is the Moroso stud mount valve spring compressor along with a magnet. Compress the spring and use the strong magnet to grab the keepers. I'll be doing my springs again this coming weekend and this is the method I've used before ... and will be using again.

Note: This is with my 1990 L98 that has the stock hyperpathetic pistons with the 4 valve reliefs, AFR190 heads at 60cc, and the 2.02/1.60 valves. If you are running deep dish pistons then the valve *might* fall down too far?

Tim

 

Thanks guys,
Actually I just talked to a friend who recomended the same spring tool from Moroso, Thats what I am going to buy.
Along with a degree wheel that I have long needed.

Right now I am going to Just put a .060 shim under the upgraded AFR roller springs I have now.
That will get me about 385lbs over the nose,still not quite enough but I will see how it works out.
That will still leave enough room to not get coil bind even with my 572/572 242/242 I am putting in.
I do run 16cc dished pistons so I will see how that works out
at TDC as far as letting the valve drop.
I really hope this cam will get me over 120 trap speeds,it should I have currently gone 119 MPH with the hyd 230/230.
But we will see.

 

That is a recipe for guaranteed disaster.

I'll bet money it won't go 1000 miles without breaking something, either breakinga spring or rolling lobes off or destroying lifters; and I'll also bet money it won't run worth a flip, especially at high RPMs, from valve float.

Get the best springs you can find that will fit your heads' spring pockets, from one of the cam mfrs that they recommend for solid roller cams. You will find that they recommend much heavier springs for solid rollers than for hydraulic rollers. The springs AFR supplies are notorious for being crappy even with hydraulic strett rollers. They use K-motions I believe but I'm not sure; complete garbage whatever they are.

Go to Comp, Lunati, Crane, Ultradyne, etc.; people who make cams. DON'T go to K-motion, GM, Summit, or others who merely sell springs, but won't warranty your cam if it wipes.

Don't worry about piston clearance, it's not an issue. Springs are an issue. Devote your attention and money to where it matters.

 

Well the only real concern would be valve float....
But I have decided to go ahead and buy the spring while i'm here instead of trying only to tear it back down again.
Just received spring tool and degree wheel today ,time to go play.

 

FWIW - here's a picture of the engine at TDC for #1 and a valvespring removed from #1. The valve is resting comfortably against the piston. Notice how much stem is left. Like I said - you don't need to fill the cylinder with air as long as the piston is at TDC for that cylinder then the valve will not fall down far enough to cause a problem.

http://www.celligent.com/tim/iroc/LE...y/DCP_1929.JPG

Tim

 

Well just wanted to thank you all for the help.
Got springs in today and got them changed using your method trax,even with my decompressed pistons there was plenty of room to get the spring off.
A word to followers - make sure spring tool is screwed ALL the way onto the stud or you will bend it very easily as I did.
But I bent it right back and now am very happy I got a stud girdle!!! And see how important it really is..
By the way The springs I put on are 200 seat and 484 over over the nose.
The car is now running with new cam ,seems to pull forever as I figured a solid would..
Well off to bed to get up and tune before track time tomorrow..

 

Good info, (as I bring up a dead post) so if the cam gear is at 6 o clock, and the crank gear is at 12 then which cylinder is at TDC?

 

Hopefully it's #1

Edit:

I might add, it's much easier to align "dot to dot" (#6 TDC) then rotate the engine 360 to be at #1.

 

But it is dot to dot...they are right next to each other...Or am i wrong

 

alighn the gears dot to dot but set them both straight up and #1 will be on power stroke

 

Ok will do, but for future reference the way they are now (In the 6 and 12 oclock) is #6 Tdc? And every 90 degree rotation would be the next cylinder in firing order 65721843 ?

 

Ah this reminds me.

My spring diameters are in the 1.45 Range, singles with dampers good to .550 lift.


I plan on putting in a roller cam, possibly solid.


Anyways, When i get my new springs, I had the head cut for 1.5" Diameter springs just in case.... I was told they would not walk around even though there was extra room on the sides. The springs I install will probably be in the 1.48" range, doubles for a roller cam or whatever i get.

My question is, When i get the springs should i go for the largest diameter spring i can get thats recommended for my cam? Is there a danger of them walking around anyways ?

 

Nope,
No danger at all. But if you are using Aluminum heads be sure you are using a hardened spring flat or cup. If they are already assembled I'm sure that they have proper flat/cup in place already.